Thread: Ranging fast moving game

I don't think he's talking about shooting moving animals. Just waiting for the pause that normally happens and being able to take advantage of that.

@Barry the hunter. I’d give that statement a like but the button appears to be missing.

okay I just think he is doing well if he is getting 50% - I found goat shooting big numbers did not actually improve ones shooting - in fact it made one a rough shot - just trying to drop as many as possible in as fast a time as possible -

I don't try moving shots on anything much past 80-100M, my Dad could bowl running pigs to 200 or so but that's a lot of practise that most shooters ( me especially) don't get these days. So I was talking about those "pause" moments when they stop for a blow.

Even if you range where you think they will come out into view, past 350 they only have to vary that a bit and it's a recipe for a miss in the benched country we shoot (central is quite unlike the sort of terrain in Gimps picture).

Originally Posted by woods223

Now I know this won’t be a popular statement but back in the day with goats we’d try and figure out the lead animal and tag that first. Rest of mob often wouldn’t be sure what to do/where to go. Gave more time to get rest of mob then go back and finish leader if not already expired. Ruthless maybe, but effective. With deer always shoot the front escaping animal, will often make following animals hesitate and/or reverse direction.

Yes always try for the "leader" first. However these animals get a fair bit of pressure so that doesn't always work.

If your using a Mil dial up scope? The Accuracy 1st “ Speed Drop “ system is bloody quick. I use this on my 223 for goat culling. There is a minimum and maximum accuracy distance threshold.

X Ring on YouTube explains it well and demonstrates it with a first time shooter of this system.

This is where.... I hate to repeat myself.... really.... But this is where you really need to go back to basics and get a .270 or similar, and sight in 3 high at 100 and then you dont need to know the range out too 300. If you think its within 400 then a hold on spine but no higher.

Its a very effective system and will beat a person relying on a rangefinder and dials all day every day.

Originally Posted by whanahuia

This is where.... I hate to repeat myself.... really.... But this is where you really need to go back to basics and get a .270 or similar, and sight in 3 high at 100 and then you dont need to know the range out too 300. If you think its within 400 then a hold on spine but no higher.

Its a very effective system and will beat a person relying on a rangefinder and dials all day every day.

I don't disagree, that's what I've done for 40+ years. But there are occasions when I've cocked that up (and I reckon you learn more from your missed shots as opposed to crowing about the hollywoods) and it happened a couple of times last weekend. I really like @tikka s idea and intend to see if I could make that work for myself. Ya gotta keep upping your game I reckon.

Originally Posted by gimp

Attachment 272592

I do a very similar thing, but with my pack, as I don't have an extended magazine to contend with. I can also stand it up if needed for extra height, and if I have time, use my walking poles. As for distances, if in doubt I will always range it and I have a "quick dial" label stuck to my scope which gives me the number of clicks I need to dial for every 50 yards past 100.

Originally Posted by whanahuia

This is where.... I hate to repeat myself.... really.... But this is where you really need to go back to basics and get a .270 or similar, and sight in 3 high at 100 and then you dont need to know the range out too 300. If you think its within 400 then a hold on spine but no higher.

Its a very effective system and will beat a person relying on a rangefinder and dials all day every day.

This 100%. The few you miss won’t matter.


But it needs to be 3 inches at 100 yds or 3.5 inches at 100 meters to be on at approx 275 meters, pill and velocity dependent.

assuming close to 3000 fps for a 130/.270W.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Shearer

I do a very similar thing, but with my pack, as I don't have an extended magazine to contend with. I can also stand it up if needed for extra height, and if I have time, use my walking poles. As for distances, if in doubt I will always range it and I have a "quick dial" label stuck to my scope which gives me the number of clicks I need to dial for every 50 yards past 100.

The PRS bag is much "deader" than a pack - much faster to get a stable position at NPA I reckon. The rifle beds into it rather than sliding around. Very good in rocky country.

This style of shooting is where I find the mill dot types of scopes to be very effective.take your best guess and then adjust your hold based on where the bullet lands

Originally Posted by Scortched earth

This style of shooting is where I find the mill dot types of scopes to be very effective.take your best guess and then adjust your hold based on where the bullet lands

And learn what ranges you can bracket an animal with 2 stadia.

Example between 3 and 400 meters with my scope and set up, I can place the 400 stadia low on chest and 300 stadia is close to spine. Anything between those ranges is now covered without having to know precisely what the range is.

What caliber are you limited too?

3"H at a hundy,2-1/4"low at 300yds,330yds =5''low.Aim at top spine 14 inch drop at 400yds bang flop.308 Hornady 150gr ssts 2900ft/s,tryed and proven.Most deer are inside the 330yds.