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As some will know Im going to do my first bedding job. I have some loctite weld or acraglass gel I can use for the compound. Just wondering if i can use something I already have lying around for release agent. I dont have any shoe polish. Ive got grease lanocote, dry glide, soft seal, silicon spray, oil, bees wax, car wax, anyone used any of these things for release agent?
yes someone has used all of the above.
axel grease works too
Of the listed, I would avoid the Silicon spray. I tried it on my latest bedding job with very poor results.
ok thanks for that. I'm a bit worried about gluing it together as my experience with glue is it wont stick that well to what your trying to glue but will stick really well to anything your not trying to glueQuote:
Originally Posted by Dazzh
The silicone worked well enough as a release agent. The problem was more aesthetic in that the surface finish was quite pocked.Quote:
Originally Posted by blip
@blip do yourself a huge favour and buy a small lot of this clear furniture polish / wax
I is all you will ever need
Attachment 231538
I'm a commercial joiner by trade and have epoxy glued and moulded a lot of laminated wood parts and this is easily the best release agent in my opinion.
I am also an active ameture gunsmith and this polish works with every type of bedding I've ever tried.
Very easy to wipe a smear on with a rag and fills small areas you don't want bedding to go.
Stay away from the paint on release agents because it's sometimes hard to break their surface tension
Also get some plastacene from the warehouse to fill any places you really don't want the bedding to get into.
Do it once and do it right - the end result will be worth it
Yip. I'm not looking forward to redoing mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bos
Carnuba car wax is what I used to use.
Ok thanks where do you get it from? Ill have to leave the trigger in it as well was thinking of glad wrapping it. Do you put release agent on the plasticine as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
Was meaning the wax
Yes release agent the plastacine.
And release where the plastacine is going into because its sticks pretty well and can be hard to clean off
At the Warehouse in the craft dept. Ask a shop assistant to help you find it because there are lots of places for it to hide.
I've also used blu tack. The plastacine users have long since departed out house.
I have also used blu tack, but its harder to shape and model compared to plastacene.Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
Craft stores do have proper plastacene it just might be called modelers clay or something different
Don't ask a shop assistant under 40 they won't know what you are talking about
When I asked Nathan Foster if he had tried panel beaters Carnauba wax as a release agent he replied that the highest grade Carnauba is what he does use.
Quick google of the Bison wax ingredients: 'A blend of paraffin, microcrystalline and carnauba mixed with the highest quality mineral spirits available gives Liberon Fine Paste Wax its pleasing aroma.' So for an off the shelf product it looks like the best option as Akaroa 1 has stated above
i use kiwi shoe polish, or hornady 1 shot case lube spray when im lazy works fine. although ll my bedding jobs are either Pratley steel,, JB weld or that stuff you buy from ballistic studies, depends what i feel like. I dont recall using acraglass
i use the clear kiwi shoe polish. Works fine for me.
Just dont heat the rifle too much to help the epoxy/compound cure . It melts the shoe polish and you have to freeze the rifle to get it apart....
I accidently put a 100w light bulb in my homemade warmer box one time when bedding a M70 for a mate :oh noes: I had to drill out around the action screws (gouged them up a bit) and froze the rifle to get it apart. It cost me $30 for new screws but turned out mint in the end though :thumbsup:
Careful of play dough...it can be full of salt.Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
LPS3.
Or any equivalent non silicone, non hydrocarbon, non solvent - preservative wax spray.
Nothing else is worth wasting time on, one careful spray application of 30 seconds and leave to dry, job done.
I just bought some clear Kiwi shoe polish from TradeMe for $6 or so. It worked brilliantly with a great finish and no issues breaking the actions from the stocks in the 3 rifles that I have done.
Kiwi shoe polish with a hit of powdered graphite from a little blow bottle
I was hoping to use something I already have. Got some dry glide as well which is spray on teflon
Teflon and silicone can react to certain epoxies, and affect the way the way the material cures. Not worth the risk...
Shoe polish (wax basically) works, but manually applying it is an arse. It takes too bloody long in comparison to a quick squirt from a spray can with the self-applying version of shoe polish...
Ok so apparetly its easy to bed a rifle...if your not retarded like me. So ive inletted the stock seemed simple enough, glued the pillar/spacer in at the right height easy enough got the barrel spaced right so it sits in the channel evenly check, next make plasticine/ modeling clay dams should be easy enough right, how the fuk do do get the fukn plasticene to stay in the stock while trial fitting everything? Cleaned the stock with meths, put release agent on action what am I missing here??
I found, just use more. I struggled to get the playdoh to stay in place when using a small amount only. Just lots of pressure to press it into the stock and use quite a bit around it to support the edge you need.
I also found scratching diagonal gouges and drilling small holes into the inside of the inlet helpful. It really helps the bedding to adhere to the action and mechanically lock it in.
@blip graphite powder on the plastercine helps it not stick to the action when test fitting. Just rub it on with your finger so you don't get it where the compound is going
I should really take a video next time I have to bed something and just show how quick and easy it is to use a spray wax as a release agent. The longest part is filling the holes in the action with plasticene or the like. It also stops the plasticene dams from sticking to the barrel etc and falling out of the stock. No chance of missing a spot or accidentally gluing bits together as well.
It's literally a spray, shake the excess off, leave to dry and ready to glue. Takes longer to type than do, but each to their own.
I also use this same spray wax technique when doing things like bedding bases and mounts, clean the base or mount and a quick spray onto the action then cast the shim in place using epoxy. Once dry, torque to spec... Never had one shift yet.
I was told one shot was good and I ended up getting some and using that as I can use what's left as case lube, all the other stuff Id have to buy it use less than a teaspoon of it and then throw it away as I wouldn't use it again and it seems unnecessarily wasteful. Just about to break it apart and see how it turned out....
Well I'm no longer a bedding virgin. The one shot worked mint, the biggest thing I was worried about was getting the alloy trigger unit glued to the stock and it breaking trying to separate it. Under the tang looks good and under the receiver and around the recoil lug looks good I did an inch of the chamber as well but that looks a bit shit as under it is supported but got sag on the sides. Guess Ill just have to shoot it and see. just need to tidy mag well up with dremel. the acraglass I was going to use had gone off so I used some loctite weld I had, after reading Nathans book It seemed to have good properties for using as bedding, good compression strength and solvent resistant.
Yep it's interesting compromising on cure rates - wait until you try a winter product in the heat of summer. That's working fast haha.
One technique you can use is applying the epoxy to the bottom of the barrel as well as the center of the barrel channel. What you want is the excess getting squished up and out taking the air with it, and if you can contact the epoxy in the center under the barrel first it usually works all the voids and air pockets away and out. Looks are purely cosmetic if you have one or two little voids or a ripply patch, and don't forget about a little scratch up in a poor area and a quiet skim bedding. Won't likely make the bedding job perform better, but it makes you feel better about it haha.
Yea i think some of the resin pushed the dam back in the mag well and some of it went there. The sag is quite even both sides surprisingly and still supports under the chamber area so we will see how it goes.
