My new howa has a rail that seemingly can't be removed. I've left it at hunting and fishing to see what they can do this week. They already broke an Allen key trying while I was there...
Do they have to be drilled out by a locksmith?
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My new howa has a rail that seemingly can't be removed. I've left it at hunting and fishing to see what they can do this week. They already broke an Allen key trying while I was there...
Do they have to be drilled out by a locksmith?
Try some heat on it?
Use a bit and small socket wrench and give the bit a short sharp smack with a hammer before trying to loosen
Get it back off them, if they are breaking Allen keys they are fucking the head and obviously have little idea of what they are doing. Find someone competent, like a gunsmith if you are unable to do it yourself.
Bloody annoying
Hot air gun
Can't get the metal hot enough to damage the finish
Or sit a Cloths iron on the rail and wait
Fit a ring to the rail for some leverage
Put a few drops of acetone on the top, leave a few minutes and repeat a few more times. I did the same thing a couple of weeks ago and it worked well.
This^. Even your wife/daughter/sister’s nail polish remover will do the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by garyp
50/50 kero and atf fluid. get metal hot and put a drop on for 1/2 hour
If using heat, use one of those 10 dollar Infra red thermometer guns to help you keep the temp below 200 degrees. Someone had used super stud loc on my 10/22 rail and 180 degrees didn't do it but 195 degrees did.
Yeah as stated, bit of heat will do the trick, just remember to take the action outta the stock
Worst thing about the Howa Super is that super shit looking rail
Rails give me the heebie jeebies I took mine off before I even got it home. Can't remember mine being difficult to remove though
If red locker had been used (they shouldn't have for that application), here is the manufacturers' recommendations for their red product.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...eadlocker.html
Just hold fine (Hot) electrical soldering iron on the screw head for 30 seconds then undo
My guess is they were using an Allen key insert that you would fit to those hex screwdrivers. They can be brittle.
I've broken a small torx before trying to get a rounded cap screw before.
Proper Allan keys just either round off them selves or the screw/bolt.
As has mentioned heat is the key.
Soldering iron or even possibly heat up a small diameter of welding rod with a gas torch then hold it on the screws.
Get a good new proper Alan wrench/key and have at it
Good chance that, as well as the screws, the rail has been glued to the receiver, same as factory fitted rails on Tikkas. There may or may not be loctite on the actual screws - they may simply have picked up some adhesive from the rail on their way in.
The bloke who runs the YT channel "Bolt Action Productions" removed the rail from his Howa U/L, and it shouldn't be hard to contact him and enquire as to how he got it off.
Rails are an abomination in most cases - make low scope mounting impossible with most rails, and then the owner puts on a cheek riser to compensate for the scope being up where it doesn't need to be. They have their uses, but on a Howa U/L isn't one of them.
Either way, I 100% agree with those who suggest getting it back from the shop before they bugger something.
My superlite rail came off ok but was a very poor fit, there was 0.5mm of error between the front height and rear (I couldn't get my scope to go low enough). It wasn't a canted rail either, if ya tightened the rear screws the front of the base lifted off the reciever ring!
Fairly easily fixed with 30 minutes of file work but shouldn't have had too and a real trap for houng players!
Unfortunately I'm out of town for a week, so it's in their care now. I suspect they were using rubbish tools, I heard one of the guys mention they'd need to go buy a proper Milwaukee bit, which apparently wouldn't toast itself so easy.
I could call tomorrow and tell them to leave it, not touch it.
I would not let these muppets service a toaster, but your call...Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad S
Either way, I 100% agree with those who suggest getting it back from the shop before they bugger something.
and give a gunsmith a mongrel job trying to fix - worse the holes are stuffed -
If they've flogged out the head of the Allen capscrew, the next option is to drive the next size up Torx bit into it and it's pretty rare that that with a bit of heat won't do the job.
If the torque, Allen key head is stuffed get someone who knows what their doing to drill the heads off the screws, remove the base and remove the remainder of the screws with grips and heat if required.