Is the only thing I need to worry about is the torque on the screws to make sure my accuracy is still sweet? Even if done right, will it shift my POI so I need to re-sight it in?
Cheers
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Is the only thing I need to worry about is the torque on the screws to make sure my accuracy is still sweet? Even if done right, will it shift my POI so I need to re-sight it in?
Cheers
Always best to check afterwards. I have a torque screwdriver if you need one.
and be aware a lot of torque setting are for lubricated bolts not dry. a little bit of blue non-permanent lock tight wouldn't hurt. I usually coat the bottom of the action and barrel with a little grease, to repel water and keep corrosion at bay.
Water, oil, CRC, etc between the action & the bedding can cause all sorts of grief....with group sizes & consistencyQuote:
Originally Posted by bully
ok, like what? (im not starting an argument just wondering your school of thought)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg
Sorry fixed the post.Quote:
Originally Posted by bully
Water, oil, CRC, etc between the action & the bedding can cause all sorts of grief....with group sizes & consistency
Just ask @Savage1Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg
Mint tack driving rifle to buck shot groups
interesting, I am having a few problems. but in saying that. one rifle shoots well from clean and at 100, but not so at distance in the field but the same load use to. (could be me, out of practice) I was about to go through a few things.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg
the other has a load/round that's not as good as it was, yet a new load it fine.
any thoughts on why a bore copper fouls quicker than it used to after polishing the throat and a little in the bore? I wouldn't say its tight as it never used to copper foul as quick, but accuracy is good. (the same rifle as above that shoots well from clean)
I dunno...
Might leave it to the experts. I posted up because a fella who comes into my work a bit offered to help me strip my gun down and examine the trigger because the accu-trigger is catching, it no longer runs smooth. He's a top bloke but I don't know if he actually knows his shit or not. Would hate to bugger my rifle up before going on my south island trip.
Phillip you do need to fix that trigger because it was a prick to use on Friday. Take it in to a shop as it could be a very quick fix.Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipgr
You don't need to be an expert to take the stock of and on:D
Just take it off, clean any crap out, air gun or something in the trigger. Put it back on hold barrel to the rear and snug up the screws.
Check zero. It shouldn't move much if at all.
+1, what he said.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
& if have a T3 Tikka, make sure the recoil lug goes back into the action properly...sometimes they came be a right PIA.
I took it into h and f on the way back from yours but it wasnt going to be fixed in time. I can break the stickiness by fixing the accu trigger halfway squeezed temporarilyQuote:
Originally Posted by Rushy
Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2
Take care that doesn't compromise the element of additional safety provided by it.Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipgr
If its a savage accutrigger and the trigger is getting stiff, then yes it needs a clean and just the smallest drop of lubricate and it should go back to normal. Not hard to do, did mine last year.
It's a Marlin accutrigger - wonder if it's much different? Cheers for the offer with the torque screw driver but the other guy has one so it should be sweet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefoot
No worries.
I would think the marlin one would only be different enough to get round the patent.
Phillip i suspect you will find that it is a Savage Accutrigger in a Marlin rifle.Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipgr
I suspected that hahahaha. Simple I am, RushyQuote:
Originally Posted by Rushy
Actually, it says it is the Marlin Pro-fire trigger
Just as well you only had to prove you could count to one in that uni exam as your answer about the periodic table being something that sits in the lounge that you occasionally put things on was way wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by phillipgr
Imagine my shock when I was told I had to sit the exam with a blue pen. I never needed one when I sat the couch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rushy
Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2
There will be plenty enough people in the coming years who won't be able to write, only type (sort of) :(
When I was target shooting I was taught to put the stock back on while the rifle was vertical, with butt down muzzle up. I can't recall why, but assume it's to ensure the action sits right back on the recoil lug. Don't know if that's necessary for field rifles but the logic holds.
On another note, what's the recommended torque setting for t3s in nM? I can only find varying suggestions and in ft/lb (though I suppose the conversion would be easy enough). I used to do 5nM for my target rifle (alu stock), and 4nM (wooden).