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I'm keen on a scope (vixen VI) but have a dilemma. What reticle? I think I want a MRAD/mildot, not because i plan on doing lots of long range shooting, but because I like the idea of lower tech shooting and using mental maths to range shots when I need those longer ones. ( That said, I won't turn down a sig sauer bdx set if anyone wants to give one away)
Are mil dot reticles hard to use in bush hunting or low light?
Identify your target beyond doubt, because you never miss and I'll be missed
I thought with bush shooting ranges were much shorter, and you should really be setting getting to know your rifles point blank ranges. For a bit longer than bush ranges I use a BDC reticle and Strelok (phone app). But I 'draw' the significant points of interest in my wrist in marker pen. For example, 150m/200m/250m/300m. So rather than doing the numbers I just look at my wrist.
I had a ffp vortex scope with a mildot reticle on a t3x, very nice for dialling in longer range shots but not so good in the tight stuff. The reticle felt clogged up with all the bars which are unnecesary for bush shooting. The reticle weas illuminated so not too much differnce in lower light.
Have switched to a leupold with firedot duplex and much nicer for the bush, still has the range for longer shots too, and put the vortex on a bigger gun for more open country shooting
I have one with elevation and windage marks and fine cross hairs and simply dont rate it for bush hunting -its simply to hard to see in dim light and confusing on quick shots -I rate the euro 4A highly- the combination of heavy posts with a small finer cross hair in middle is hard to beat - Get a plex or euro 4A with turret adjustments if you want long range
about the only thing I care about anymore is that the scopes have a dot in the center for fast snap shots
they have made me a substantially better shot on things that are moving
Leupold TMR reticle
Everything else is a compromise
I have that in one of my VXRs (with a red dot in it) what is so good about it that Im not making the most of?Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
I have same. Leupold VXR 3-9*40 heavy TMR reticle with firedot. I sent away and had locking ZL turrets fitted. I've found that with common calibres like 308ein, 30-06, 6.5*55 etc y zeroing at 200-225m a half mrad low is close to bang on at 100 and a half mrad up on the tmr is close to bang on at 300m. Very happy with it. I like the Boone and Crocket reticles as well and also zero at 200 rather than 100 but would love to see these again available in the 2,5-8*36 and 3-9*40 and include HD lenses and firedot.
So the firedot for bush/closer work and the tmr for longer shots?Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody
Identify your target beyond doubt, because you never miss and I'll be missed
If you get a SFP reticle it will be fine for bush shooting, won't be as thick as a duplex or 4a but will be fine.
FFP is a different story, in theory it is possible to design a reticle that is useful at both high magnification and low magnification but most manufacturers design them to be thin for high magnification and end up being damn near useless in low light/bush type scenarios.
Firedot on minimum or near minimum illumination is very good dawn and dusk even for long shots or other very dull light situations. At lowest visible illumination it covers only 1/2 moa (60mm @ 300m) so it is fine for normal accuracy requirements.
Firedot reticles are exceptionally good for bush, low light and bush edge hunting. I have several Leupold scopes (VXr, VX5 and VX6) with firedot and really rate them. I find the firedot also helps with longer range shooting as it really focuses your eye & brain on the precise POA. There are other cheaper scopes that feature a firedot - I picked up a Weaver 2.5-10x50 with 4A firedot a few years back for under $500. Optics on this scope are surprisingly good. A simple plex reticle with firedot and a 2 hundy zero covers everything out to 300 yards. How far beyond that do you intend shooting in a bush hunting environment?
For low light consider the optical performance & quality of the scope as much or more than reticle design. It’s pretty hard to get a meaningful assessment of low light performance in the shop. If you can’t see the target clearly mildots or reticle hold points won’t help.
Yes. I should have mentioned that; zero at around 200-225m and for 300 just hold on top of shoulder. Job done.
Thanks all. I've read the price points for optics thread with interest as well, and have some more research to do.
Identify your target beyond doubt, because you never miss and I'll be missed
pros & cons really depending on application & preference.
the thing is if you choose the holdover type reticle you can still sort of use the scope like a normal crosshair style duplex.
But you can't do the opposite, your only choice with the VI would be to crack the cap/s & dial it(plenty do..).
Personally i enjoy the uncluttered simplicity of a duplex for bush stalking & shooting within my mpbr. good luck
I would go for the plain duplex with those scopes.
Its very hard to use mil dots with a second focal plane scope because you have to set the scope at an exact magnification for them to mean anything. All Ballistic Reticles suffer from the same drawback. If you go to use the scope while its set at a random magnification the dots and hashes arent correct. So theyre good for target shooting but not for hunting.
You can check whether a model is first or second focal plane on the australian vixen optics web site.
I like solid ranging reticles like tmr or b&c esp with firedot. At ranges like bush or up to 300-ish you dont really need such but if your trying for an animal further away you have adequate time to wind up the mag to the appropriate setting.
Hunting mate has “donut of death” on his redfield. With two holdover dots below the donut. Best of both worlds for he who prefers to keep it simple. Seems very effective judging by his results.
Horses for courses.
Target and long range in good light needs a fine cross hair.
However for my hunting I really like the German #4 type. Heavy enough to make them out against shadow and the finer centre gives precision.
Have used a BDC type scope but you have to have a sheet giving you the ranges for each different load against the varying marks. Just get confusing.
I don't shoot very long range but I work on a point blank range on deer out to 250 mtr and then a cheat sheet with drops and # click to keep me on target out to 500 mtr.
Z
Thanks all. Went with a plex in the end. Bought secondhand so I can see how it goes without investing too much too early.
Always identify your target beyond all doubt because you never miss and I will be missed
Good value to get one second hand.