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Apart from the speed and lack of fiddling with Allen keys or levers do they do anything that properly fitted std rings on a picatinny won't.
I've been playing with swapping one good scope between two rifles and apart from having to dial corrections off or on it doesn't seem to wander any more than can be attributed to my wobble.
I'd be interested in people's opinions.
I use them on my scout rifle so I can access the iron sights if I need to.
They are also a good option if you have two scopes for one rifle, kind of the opposite of what you are doing.
I have never tested them but I've never noticed a problem either. Unfortunately when I miss its usually my fault as much as I would like to blame the rifle :thumbsup:
I think the real question is how much do modern "standard" rings lose zero? Like you say aside from the QD function what's the difference really?
The Leupold ones are well made and return to zero well but are heavy .I run a red dot most of the time but switch to a scope when hunting clearings in the evening or think I’m going to need to do longer shots.
The ones I have direct experience of are the Warne QD 'Maxima' series rings, these are a sintered product so you can't lap them like a machined ring. No issues in use between the QD and non-QD versions. and to be honest I've not noticed any error the few times I've had them off and on. I don't tend to remove the scope that much as it's more of a pest in use than any benefit I've found but it's not worth changing them out for the little weight saving you get between standard and QD rings on that setup (NX8 5.5-22x50, heavy barrel .308). What that does say is that the Warne version anyway will hang onto a bloody heavy solid scope sitting on a pic rail without any issues.
I lapped my Warne QD rings for my Brno Hornet. And yes, I was aware they are sintered but for a low recoil Hornet? And once you break thru the surface when lapping you understand sintered.
Use them and lap them on something a bit meatier recoil use, nop.
The reason I used QD rings was so that I could leave the rear sight attached, and not loose it. The scope height above bore just clears the rear sight by a gnats cock. I used 30mm Warne QD rings and Sinclair delrin 30mm - 1" adaptors. Despite how it sounds it is a very tidy and unobtrusive setup.
I personaaly don't like the standard Warne rings. OK if attaching scope and forgetting but if ever removing the scope by loosening, the scope becomes free to rotate inside the rings potentially requiring reset up. The std rings use a top to bottom clamping effect on the scope which is totally diiferent to how the QD rings clamp the scope. Of course with the QD rings once the assembly is removed from the rifle the scope is still securely held by the rings, as you would expect with QD.
They are a very tidy rings however, both versions.
If you use good quality rings and remove and reattach the scope assembly there shouldn't be vitually any change. Probably more so on a pic rail where you can slide the scope hard fwd in its original slots/position.
Unfortunately I love Burris Sig rings because of their inserts and no marking of scopes or lapping required. Also unfortunately, due to the el cheapo way they clamp (slot cut up on one side, no side clamp plate to remove) I cannot remove my larger scopes (my NF, big Loopy, Sightron S3) by sliding fwd or reverse off the dovetails, or as you you normally by tipping off the dovetails.. Have to unclamp the top shells which then requires setting up the scope again.
I have Quick Release rings on a 45/70 that has a 2-7 leopold compact in it. i just checked & cant find a name on them but remembered they were well priced from one of the main stores when i brought them 20+years ago. They handle sub loads & super loads seemingly with ease but the tiny tube-like scope would have very little inertia compared to a big NF or Loopy etc. My reason for them is the compact goes on for hunting in dry to drizzerly weather & then its a quick change over to a red dot when hunting in serious rain. Ive been very happy with them. Only minor niggle is that the throw levers can sometimes hook up on bush lawyer & thin vines but pointing them back towards shooter negates most of that. They did live on my 308 but got changed off for no important remembered reason.
Likewise, I couldn't work out the best position. Tried them facing up, down, fwd and finally facing the rear.
Thank you guys, as each scope has its own rings, loopi and contessa and each rifle a pic rail and seeing I haven't been able to detect a change in poi with repeated reattachments I'll stick with Allen keys for now. Until I loose it or flog the threads from continual use.These are hunting rifles fyi
Try a small amount of silver nickel antiseize on the threads - this product 'dries' so doesn't seem to have the issue with coming loose like some thread lube products can and will help to protect against wear. The other thing I'd suggest is a half decent torque screwdriver and work out a torque setting so you're the same each time. It's not so important for accuracy on ring-base screws, but what it will do is help prevent that one moment when you have a bruise or a sore bit or even a very cold hand and you're not quite as sensitive as every other time you've tightened that screw and you have that guts-wrenching moment when righty tighty becomes CRACK righty loosey FU*K... Please note, to facilitate the upkeep of my reputation I have never done this ever cough cough...Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Henry
I run multiple scopes/red dots off the one rifle using either Warne or Leupold rings. Both hold zero fine, well within minute of animal on ground. I've also used a set of cheaper Konus return to zero QD rings and they've worked perfectly too.
Either Warne or Leupold both guarantee theirs so would go with either of them.
Note however, not sure if I'd recommend these for longer shots? This platform is a 300m max rifle, though I largely shoot inside 100m. I can comfortably do so on this rig out to 250m.
Edit: to achieve the above results, all rings and rails are mounted to precise measured torques with a gunsmiths torque wrench. Scopes are also initially mounted and set up with scope mounting levels to eliminate as much margin of error as possible. Whilst doing so the rifle is also locked in a vice and leveled so that everything lines up.
I've done a lot of scope swtiching around and have had near perfect repeatability with many different types of rings.
But the Nightforce Utralite rings as easily my favorite, repeatable and only two 1/2" nuts to worry about.
Buy a set of arms rings, owl optics sells them. I’ve been using them for years on my work guns with no issues
Been using the Warne QD rings for 20+ years and currently on 3 rifle/ scope setups. Swap between red dot and easier clean blood, dirt and rust etc off rifle, scope, rings, picatinny rail.
I tested the warne ones a few years back to swith between day and night scopes. they returned to less than 1" at 100 yards from zero. usually was within 0.5" at 100 yards. So plenty good for an all-round hunting rifle. Key things are to mare sure you have a good pic rail (i use the DPT ones), make sure you put it back in the same spot every time, put it forward against the rail surface, and tighten them with the same finger, motion, pressure (you get the feel of it after a few goes)
The steel Nikko sterling ones were not bed either, maybe a little less repeatable but not enough to miss a shoulder at 300 yards