@Slideshow the stuff I have was recommended to me by another knowledgeable forum member and is a marine grade epoxy similar to west system.
Cant be too bad
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@Slideshow the stuff I have was recommended to me by another knowledgeable forum member and is a marine grade epoxy similar to west system.
Cant be too bad
Do you need to pillar bed the rifle before you bed the action?
I've got a couple that really should be bedded so may as well get into it.
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I would if I was going to do pillarsQuote:
Originally Posted by Steve123
Been pretty lucky most of the rifles ive bedded have factory pillars
But if i was going to do pillars id get them perfect and glued in
Then glass bedding after
Some of the really good guys do it all at once I haven’t had the balls to try that yet seems like it could all turn
Into a fuck up of Plague Proportions to me��
Ask ten blokes and get ten answers. I have mostly done pillars before bedding to limit the things that can go wrong. Getting pillar heights right so they meet the bottom of the action can be tricky, as can getting the shape of the top of the pillars right to match where they touch the action. I put my pillars in place with Devcon then lightly tighten the action screws so the pillars touch the action and to be sure the bottom metal fits as it should. I also try to sand the top of the pillars to get them to mate as well as possible with the action.
An alternative is to get a good fill of Devcon around the screws and use that as your pillars. In any event, it’s important that the screws are not tight in the pillars. They need to be free to find their own comfortable position and not stress the bedding job. Its pretty easy to drill them out 2mm or so more than the diameter of the screws. Devcon drills cleanly.
I only ever do front and rear bedding now as it’s much easier, cleaner and uses far less resin. The results are the same as full length bedding in terms of accuracy.
As Mickey Duck says, Nathan Foster’s videos are very helpful. Also test fit everything multiple times before pouring resin.
@Steve123 well I figured while I was at it I would go the whole hog.
This way I could torque it up and not need to worry.
Would I full bed and pillar next time. Yes once you have done one and see how easy it is (I’m a tradesman so on the tools every day maybe not so easy for some who’s not).
But if you have the mind set and go through the steps, yep easy.
If you just want to pillar then fine it’s it’s easy as well see my post page 2 I think.
New I needed to get around to doing this. Here is the finished product.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
Shoots really really well.
Attachment 139333Attachment 139334Attachment 139335Attachment 139336Attachment 139337Attachment 139338
New I needed to get around to doing this. Here is the finished product.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
Shoots really really well.
Attachment 139333Attachment 139334Attachment 139335Attachment 139336Attachment 139337Attachment 139338Attachment 139339
Sorry about that double last post. But I think that this is ok for my first effort at rifle bedding.
Really happy with the results.
a lot tidier than most Iv seenQuote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
I pulled my first one apart too soon 18+ hours but at cold temps
it all stretched out like bubble gum
Looks like a real tidy job. One thing to take into consideration, especially on a wooden stock, is that you need at least four times the thickness of a five pound note for barrel clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideshow
It might lack the wetness to bond really well and to give detailQuote:
Originally Posted by 7mmwsm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmwsm
Doesn't have the required viscosity (mmmm right word?) or surface smoothness plus goes off too quick. 2 issues there, you have to work reasonably quickly (some of the early bedding compounds didn't give you much time either) and any 2 part compound that sets quickly generally doesn't have the strength of a slower setting compound. Although I have used the steel version for non gun repairs even tapping it and it seemed strong enough. It may also have more than desired shrinkage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fisherman
Having said that, I have used Knead It to build a temporary support for the barrel at the end of fore end channel. Keeps barrel central and at the right height during the process. Easily removed when job done.
No I would respectfully disagree. If you have sealed the rest of the barrel channel then you won't get any water ingress and then you wont get any swelling.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10-Ring
Also if you go 4 times thicker then you are just going to get more debris getting in. Plus its going to add more weight as well as increase head lift/clerance as your barrel/action moves up away form the stock.
If you feel that you can live with lifting it that much sure go ahead. But I really don't see any bonuses in doing this.
Cheers S
I used Norski but haven't test fired yet. Mix some black oxide in for the colour. Watch some youtube vid's and off you go. Get some propper plasticene when the shops open and check it every 15 minutes so you can do a trim when it's firm but still workable. I left it for 2 hours as the yanky youtube advice but it had gone off rock hard.
Devcon does look to be a better product though
I ll stick to my 3$ neutral shoe polish...
