Ive always done my own bedding jobs and some look like this but most look far better. What you have will probably work fine. But id be annoyed if i get that back after paying money for it
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Ive always done my own bedding jobs and some look like this but most look far better. What you have will probably work fine. But id be annoyed if i get that back after paying money for it
Have you tested the bedding? See this:
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....uestion-67714/
That last photo WTf was the edge damaged before?
No, that edge damage was not there before it went away to be bedded.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimC
UnacceptableQuote:
Originally Posted by Kimber 7mm-08
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so how does it shoot
Yep keen to see how it shoots now
A bit late to the party here but won't the front gap be for the recoil lug, the rests a bit messy especially around the tail but most will be under the action and it's purpose is to stableise the action in the stock. Asthetics would be preferred but if it does part a then that's really all that matters
Nah bullshit. That visible damage is unacceptable. I'd be taking it back 100%
The logic of the guys saying "as long as it shoots better then job done" so you'd be happy if you sent your car in for a wheel alignment, they dented a panel but you'd still be happy as long as the wheels were aligned and your car drove better?
At $390 you would expect a near perfect pillar bedding. With aluminium Pilars .
A couple of small to very small air bubbles under the rifle receiver are acceptable provided the rest of the finish , notably around the edges is neat and sharp.
And of course you don’t want any tension into the receiver/ barrel action once everything is back in place and the receiver screws are on tight.
How much is the going rate for a bedding job without pillars and who in auckland does it? Might not be worth mucking around with myself.
talk to Friwi LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by blip
and in the defence of "the blokes who say shoot it and see" the complaint about the CHIP in rear of action..DIDNT surface untill this last page..... there was mention of a blob of bedding not happy with...but NOTHING ELSE VISUAL untill it was taken apart and the price wasnt included in initial "discussion" either
nah bullshit...you DONT ACCEPT IT IN FIRST PLACE........ it should have been rejected before it came back...or if had been sent via courier...sent back before dismantleing..... this could turn into a real shit fight with blame of chip being hard to proove either way UNLESS its underneath bedding.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimC
No time for a trip to the range this weekend unfortunately. Too time poor. Only range time I had was baking muffins with the daughter, so not a bad result I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by blip
I'll update on how it shoots when I can find a spare weekend day over the next few months.
I appreciate everyone's comments. I'm new to the whole bedding thing so was unsure if the finish was to be expected or not. While I know a rifle is a tool
and dings and marks happen out hunting it is also one of the few things I take real pride in, and this rifle is destined for my son in a few years as his first rifle, so was hoping for a clean and neat bedding job.
As mentioned above, being very time poor I'd prefer not to have to tidy up the edges myself, but will most likely have to do so as time permits, rather than have the rifle out of my possession for another month or so.
I will reach out to the gunsmith in due course, however at the moment he is non-contactable.
Have you had a look at Nathan Foster's tutorials ? looking at those will give you an idea of what a good job should look likeQuote:
Originally Posted by Kimber 7mm-08
Nailed itQuote:
Originally Posted by TimC
Honestly it’s not that hard. It’s a process that takes some time, effort and understanding of what you’re trying to achieve.
I read and re-read Fosters book many times. Spent far too much time on YT tutorials.
Bought some Devcon, aluminum pillars and a Dremel and away I went.
Admittedly I was forced into it by paying for a worse job than you got. The guy that made the carbon stock butchered the job, ruined a set of Sako action screws and lied throughout the process. I nearly wept when I saw it. I couldn’t put up with his bullshit anymore, so just wanted to put it all behind me.
I locked the rifle in the safe and spent the next six months visualizing how to go about it.
Sako 75 V action. Shoots 0.25 MOA all day, every day.
My work…
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Bottom metal bedded as well.
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@hunterzk this is the "why"
@Micky Duck thank you. I’ll read this post thanks for your help steering me in right direction
No shooting update, but tidied up the rear a bit during my lunch break. Bit of a pain in arse to slowly and carefully remove it but happy with the result.
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Keep an eye on the length of that tang screw. Ideally it shouldn't come above flush.
Just out of interest Kimber 7mm-08..... did you ever own a Kimber Montana in 6mm Creedmoor ?
And if so, did you use the same Gunsmith that did the above action bedding job to fit the Creedmoor barrel to that Kimber ?
No, not me sorry. I have only ever owned Montana's in 7mm-08, a 308 and 300WSM and they are all still in my possession.Quote:
Originally Posted by NIMROD
You cleaned it up real neatly. Good job.
Im really interested in seeing how this gun groups. Would have been great if you could have tested it with good hand loads.
What kind of accuracy are you after?
After reading the post I realized Im totally under priced.
Just realized, I forgot to say: I'm blessed with the customers I have.
Your workmanship and service is outstanding. Cant comment on your pricing because thats your business but Im always happy to hand my dollars over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaco Goosen
Thanks Bruce, I think my pricing is fair. I hope. Shooting is expensive as it is. Its more important to me to get more people out there shooting, doing the things we love.
I'd like to get it back to near where I had it shooting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaco Goosen
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Cheers mate. Your a good shot. Please keep us posted of how it shoots?
I think you're worrying too much. Although I would have taken that bit out at the tang as well. If the rifle shoots well with that bedding I would forget about it and be happy; aesthetics? You can't see it anyway when the the rifles assembled. All it has to do is shoot well when its screwed together.
As for accuracy, your first and most obvious thing to look at is the factory ammo your using. If your acccuracy has changed and your using the same factory ammo, you dont know if the factory changed loads, powders, primers or brass on their ammo, or whether they decided QA was too expensive and got some guy named Nathan to do it now, who used to be a bus driver.
@NIMROD from memory, Dreamer on here had a Kimber Montana that he rebarreled to 6mmCreed. I think it was a 243 previously.Quote:
Originally Posted by NIMROD
Yes..... that's the one. Thanks for the reply. lt's now wearing an original Kimber factory .260Rem barrel that l had sitting around.
The first day on the range with a worked over rifle that now 'works' makes you forget the $$ pretty quicklyQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
For a comparison this is my DIY bedding job using JB Weld (not a professional gunsmith, but also time spent on it was not a concern). I did three rifles (two for me, one for a friend) in the space of about 6months, this is the second but spent a long time researching the process. I have a few nicks on the inside of the magwell. I also had the rear action screw hole blow out on the bottom when I drilled it out for the pillar, which I strengthened with bedding compound. Not perfect but it’s a overall a job I’m happy with.
For $390 I would expect a much neater job than you received.
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