Thread: Rifle choice: $1600 budget

Originally Posted by Nick-D

Yeah, I've owned both, the tikka for end is rigid, none of mine came close to making contact with the berrel, even if squeezing them together, and could be shot of the bipod repeatedly no problem. The houge Howas stocks on the other hand, pretty soft and flimsy. Better shot of a pack than a bipod if repeatability is required.

The Tikka stock bears on the barrel it is not free floated. There is a bearing point 70mm from the tip and a second 163mm from the fore end tip. The tip will often bear on the barrel
Both apply upward pressure to the barrel. This means that shooting off a hard surface or a Bipod is going to affect the harmonics. If the Tikka stock is free floated the fore end needs to be stabilised so that it wont twist at the recoil lug. The other rifles can be free floated without issue
The Tikka stock multiplies felt recoil contrary to Newtons laws

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

The Tikka stock bears on the barrel it is not free floated. There is a bearing point 70mm from the tip and a second 163mm from the fore end tip. The tip will often bear on the barrel
Both apply upward pressure to the barrel. This means that shooting off a hard surface or a Bipod is going to affect the harmonics. If the Tikka stock is free floated the fore end needs to be stabilised so that it wont twist at the recoil lug. The other rifles can be free floated without issue
The Tikka stock multiplies felt recoil contrary to Newtons laws

Why do they shoot so well then.
Ask how I know

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Nick-D

The houge Howas stocks on the other hand, pretty soft and flimsy. Better shot of a pack than a bipod if repeatability is required.

I had a Howa Ranch (1500?) in 243 with a Hogue. It shot like a laser, and I shot off a bipod. I'm not sure where you get flimsy from, the stock was solid to the point I didn't like the weight.

Best shot I had on it was shooting a fallow half-yearling (not much more than a handbag) through the heart at 335m. That was on a 3-9x40 Nikon scope with a plex reticule.

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

Why do they shoot so well then.
Ask how I know

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

They shoot well because Tikka got the bearing points correct. Tikkas are pressure bedded, so they will shoot well in a given repeatable situation like a range, but in a different situation - over a log, bonnet etc can produce and unexplained WTF miss. They shoot even better in an aftermarket stock

Originally Posted by vulcannz

I had a Howa Ranch (1500?) in 243 with a Hogue. It shot like a laser, and I shot off a bipod. I'm not sure where you get flimsy from, the stock was solid to the point I didn't like the weight.

Best shot I had on it was shooting a fallow half-yearling (not much more than a handbag) through the heart at 335m. That was on a 3-9x40 Nikon scope with a plex reticule.

On my mates one (which shoots like a laser) but we found that we could relatively easily torque the stock to the point that it could put pressure on the barrel, that's not going to happen often and shouldnt happen off a bench etc but the potential is there. They are flexible and always wonder how much more flexible they might become in the heat. Still amazing bang for the buck tho.

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

They shoot well because Tikka got the bearing points correct. Tikkas are pressure bedded, so they will shoot well in a given repeatable situation like a range, but in a different situation - over a log, bonnet etc can produce and unexplained WTF miss. They shoot even better in an aftermarket stock

Interesting thoughts, after reading them I unwrapped an unused TX3 stock and put a barreled action in it. There is one designed contact point on either side of the barrel about 8cm from the action, nothing at all near the tip.

I don't see those contact points on either side of the barrel as having anything to do with the bedding, I always assumed they there are to ensure that the barrel stays centered in the barrel channel (which has very tight tolerances on the barrel, to keep shit and crap out I imagine). And I assumed that they are deliberately located far enough away from the tip of the barrel that they wouldn't accuracy (I've always removed them anyway).

I'm taken with the genius of the Tikka design that economizes where it can to give hunters a high quality sako barrel etc.

Originally Posted by Fisherman

Interesting thoughts, after reading them I unwrapped an unused TX3 stock and put a barreled action in it. There is one designed contact point on either side of the barrel about 8cm from the action, nothing at all near the tip.

I don't see those contact points on either side of the barrel as having anything to do with the bedding, I always assumed they there are to ensure that the barrel stays centered in the barrel channel (which has very tight tolerances on the barrel, to keep shit and crap out I imagine). And I assumed that they are deliberately located far enough away from the tip of the barrel that they wouldn't accuracy (I've always removed them anyway).

I'm taken with the genius of the Tikka design that economizes where it can to give hunters a high quality sako barrel etc.

The old wood stocked Sako's were pressure bedded too with upward pressure at the fore end tip. This worked well but water could swell the stock and move the POI

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

The Tikka stock bears on the barrel it is not free floated. There is a bearing point 70mm from the tip and a second 163mm from the fore end tip. The tip will often bear on the barrel
Both apply upward pressure to the barrel. This means that shooting off a hard surface or a Bipod is going to affect the harmonics. If the Tikka stock is free floated the fore end needs to be stabilised so that it wont twist at the recoil lug. The other rifles can be free floated without issue
The Tikka stock multiplies felt recoil contrary to Newtons laws

Nawww, the only place the stock should be touching the barrel on a plastic stocked Tikka is just in front of the action. There is a little nub on each side of the stock contacting the barrel on both sides just infront of the chamber. It should not be making contact elsewhere.

Originally Posted by ChrisW

Nawww, the only place the stock should be touching the barrel on a plastic stocked Tikka is just in front of the action. There is a little nub on each side of the stock contacting the barrel on both sides just infront of the chamber. It should not be making contact elsewhere.

Have you done the 'dollar bill' test with yours ? If it is free floated it will be because either someone has relieved the factory pressure bedding points or the rifle action has been bedded and the person doing it very slightly elevated the front of the action to give clearance from the stock.

If you are interested, I have a Winchester model 670 (1966-79) in 243 that I'm looking after for son. This is the budget stock version of Winchester model 70 - with I believe same action. 670 stock is coloured beech I think rather than model 70's walnut. This one has few wear marks and was going strip and to recoat it - an easy job. But its a nice action, good weight, has a Leupold 2-7 sitting on it, and has no trouble shooting MOA with the one Federal ammo he gave me. Doubt he'll want too much for it - but quite alot of rifle for the money.

The other very effective hunter is, as suggested above, the Howa. My model 1500 in 223 averages around 0.7" at 100m with factory ammos, with best of 0.4". Again you get alot of performance for your money - the accuracy, durability, and reliability you need for a field shooter. You could spend alot more and get less.

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

Have you done the 'dollar bill' test with yours ? If it is free floated it will be because either someone has relieved the factory pressure bedding points or the rifle action has been bedded and the person doing it very slightly elevated the front of the action to give clearance from the stock.

Sorry mate, but you're wrong. Whatever your experience with them is not the norm I guarantee you.
Id have "checked" literally dozens and dozens of them. Brand new rifles. Iv shot many tikka's and trouble shooted for warranty / accuracy guarantee. They should free float. The times they don't is when the action and recoil lug isn't seated properly.
Im sure iv posted pictures here before of where the Tikka stock contacts..let me see if I can dig it up

If he's a shoot-them-in-the-ear-Guy, (likes Precision) any decent .243 will fit the bill , if he's more of a 'Dinner-plate' guy , I would suggest the 6.5/.260rem or 7-08 as someone else suggested . 30-06 is a great all-rounder too . Might pay to ph-around the shops and find which ammo sells-out faster...

I’d seriously consider Bergara b14 Extreme hunter if they do them in .243. I own one in 308 and been very impressed. I do think they have gone up in price a few hundred now, they did come out around $1650.

Originally Posted by ChrisW

Sorry mate, but you're wrong. Whatever your experience with them is not the norm I guarantee you.
Id have "checked" literally dozens and dozens of them. Brand new rifles. Iv shot many tikka's and trouble shooted for warranty / accuracy guarantee. They should free float. The times they don't is when the action and recoil lug isn't seated properly.
Im sure iv posted pictures here before of where the Tikka stock contacts..let me see if I can dig it up

Lets see the photos, the T3 I have here has the standard garden variety pressure points as have the three others I have worked on

I've never seem pressure points in a Tikka barrel channel?? There are none on my current one. @Moa Hunter do you mean at the fore end like a Rem 700?