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Thread: Rifle lights........

  1. #16
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_H View Post
    I have exactly the same problem. I worked it out that for me, at least, the beam was falling across the barrel and reflecting back at the scope from the end of the suppressor.

    Like @MB I am working on a solution to attach the beam to the underneath of the fore-stock. I believe this will work from experimenting by just holding it under the fore-stock with my forward hand. Not good for balance and stability so need to make some permanent attachment.

    Cheers
    Phil
    Move the bell of the torch behind the objective bell of your scope. This will put the barrel and suppressor under the shadow of your scope and the flaring will go away.
    GWH, deepsouthaussie, 6x47 and 2 others like this.
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  2. #17
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser308 View Post
    If there is any sort of moisture/fog/dust present the more horsepower the light the worse a backscatter problem you'll have.

    Some filters are ok on some lights and some are shite, I played around with IR filters once and found variable results. Those Maxtoch sniper lights that are dedomed seem to hold animals OK, you're right some LED's are shocking for spooking animals.
    The really white LED light refracts in water droplets and comes back at you. You can see more if someone holds the torch a couple of meters away to your side. The de-doming changes the colour more to the red side of the spectrum with a warm yellow which doesn't refract the light the same, nor does it seem to spook animals as much.
    kukuwai and dannyb like this.
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  3. #18
    Member deepsouthaussie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_H View Post
    I have exactly the same problem. I worked it out that for me, at least, the beam was falling across the barrel and reflecting back at the scope from the end of the suppressor.

    Like @MB I am working on a solution to attach the beam to the underneath of the fore-stock. I believe this will work from experimenting by just holding it under the fore-stock with my forward hand. Not good for balance and stability so need to make some permanent attachment.

    Cheers
    Phil
    I had this exact problem with my shooter 2x the quickest easiest solution I found that worked with my dpt was a neoprene suppressor cover slip back down over the suppressor 'barrel nut' that was reflecting the light bouncing off the stainless back into the scope... Instant success. Only figured this on Wednesday night

    Sent from my ELE-L09 using Tapatalk
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  4. #19
    Member deepsouthaussie's Avatar
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    I've only run Leds in spotlights and can say that the deer don't hang around long IMO that's for sure. Maybe an old school light beam does provide something else?

    Sent from my ELE-L09 using Tapatalk

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadgetman View Post
    Move the bell of the torch behind the objective bell of your scope. This will put the barrel and suppressor under the shadow of your scope and the flaring will go away.
    That one.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_H View Post
    I have exactly the same problem. I worked it out that for me, at least, the beam was falling across the barrel and reflecting back at the scope from the end of the suppressor.

    Like @MB I am working on a solution to attach the beam to the underneath of the fore-stock. I believe this will work from experimenting by just holding it under the fore-stock with my forward hand. Not good for balance and stability so need to make some permanent attachment.

    Cheers
    Phil
    A piece of PVC pipe with a lengthwise split and flared end works well as an under rifle mount for a hand held torch. Just slip the torch in when game is spotted. The PVC can be heated and bent so that it has a 'spring' fit around the torch
    Phil_H likes this.

  7. #22
    Member Cordite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deepsouthaussie View Post
    I've only run Leds in spotlights and can say that the deer don't hang around long IMO that's for sure. Maybe an old school light beam does provide something else?

    Sent from my ELE-L09 using Tapatalk
    Try a warming filter, see the image, you get the idea. High intensity lights invariably have over-blue as they go for intensity rather than usefulness, since more lumens sell better.

    Name:  LEE_Filters_CR12_4x4_Coral_12_Warming_1405002967_87260.jpg
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    This guy gets a warming filter sheet, you can see about the light orange-brown / sienna / ocre colour you need as you scrounge around.



    One hack is to use an orange or pink highlighter pen on the lens, but it does not stay on when wet. You can however cover the lens with sellotape, use the highlighter on that surface, then let it dry and "lock it in" with another layer of sellotape.
    Last edited by Cordite; 27-06-2020 at 06:09 PM.
    Moa Hunter likes this.
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  8. #23
    TLB
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    Just put "barrel torch mount" in on trade me and you will see a similar one I have and it is cheap as.
    Just got annoying with a bipod really but other than that handy as. I got a 30mm ring to use with one of my torches.

  9. #24
    TLB
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_H View Post
    Yep, did that @TLB, but apart from the "Sling Stud" attachment, I wouldn't touch the others as they attached directly to the barrel and will impact the zero, unless you zero and shoot with the attachment and torch permanently mounted.....as I understand it. Please feel free anyone in the know to correct me if I am wrong.

    Cheers
    Phil
    Maybe, I don't think it would impact it that much though unless it was on either a poorly bedded rifle or something high recoiling, you probably wouldn't barrel mount on the latter anyhow.
    I had mine on a .223 and head and neck shot maybe 30 deer and a fair few hares with it no problem at all.
    Every rifle is different though.

 

 

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