Thread: Ruger 10/22 - Tricks, tips and modifications

the best thing I ever did to my 10/22 was sell it for something that actually shot well.
after a lot of research I settled on the marlin model 60 deluxe.
$470 new, accurate, nice wood and doesn't play up.
I think from memory they have sold more model 60s than the 10/22.
the only mod I have done is a trigger job for $40.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

the best thing I ever did to my 10/22 was sell it for something that actually shot well.
after a lot of research I settled on the marlin model 60 deluxe.
$470 new, accurate, nice wood and doesn't play up.
I think from memory they have sold more model 60s than the 10/22.
the only mod I have done is a trigger job for $40.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

I love the model 60 great rifles ive had a couple of them aswell
but there are disadvantages I don't like tube feed really I like to have mags in my pocket and be able to quick change when empty
the model 60 (compared to the ruger) is a pain in the arse to strip and clean (but its not that hard really once you have done it a few times

the major advantage of a model 60 is on the accuracy front

the model 60 and ruger are on par reliability wise as long as they are kept clean but that goes for any semi auto they work better when clean

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

the best thing I ever did to my 10/22 was sell it for something that actually shot well.
after a lot of research I settled on the marlin model 60 deluxe.
$470 new, accurate, nice wood and doesn't play up.
I think from memory they have sold more model 60s than the 10/22.
the only mod I have done is a trigger job for $40.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Yeh was in Serious Shooters some time ago gazing at the 22s, and the gun expurt said what I needed was a 10/22, the most sold 22 in history. When I corrected him his eyes just glazed over and he ignored me. IIRC I think it is something like 15 million Marlin 60/795s to around 10 million rugas.
I have a 795

Fuse lit. Withdrawing a safe distance now.......

Let's start with what ruger has done right - the mag. The factory mags, black, clear, 10 shots, 25 shots, are all very good and the most reliable ones you can buy. There exists a aftermarket version that opens the bolt automatically after the mag is empty, I never try it and it is quite expensive, but if reliable then it is quite an interesting upgrade.

Now let's discuss everything else:

Barrel

Factory barrel is sub par compared to all other rifles of the same price range (or slightly below). But it is very reliably. Ruger makes them tolerant to all different sorts of ammos but in the process made them inaccurate. decent enough for plinking but not good enough for hunting and worse for target shooting. There are several good options:
1. KIDD ultralite. Possibly the best value that you can buy in NZ. Good enough for target shooting and great for hunting.
2. Whistlepig. Cheaper than KIDD but harder to get, very similar in quality and accuracy. Very very light.
3, KIDD bullbarrel. Very accurate and reliable, reasonably priced. If you fancy yourself as tough guy then take it out to hunting too. I do not think it offers enough accuracy advantage over the ultralight version, but is about twice as heavy.
4, Magnum Research carbon fibre. The only carbon fibre covered 10/22 barrel that is actually ultra light and ultra accurate. Very hard to buy and possibly very expensive.

Screw on barrel/action sets are slightly more accurate, but not enough to compensate for the loss of convenience. KIDD used to make them as their supergrade, but now dropped this design in favour of a new slot in design (which is different and superior to ruger's factual v-block design).

VERY IMPORTANT: unless you only shoot off bench rest, do not upgrade barrel until you have upgraded the trigger.

TRIGGER

Factory trigger is super bad. Super heavy, long travel, and uncertain break. Home modding can only lighten the weight but not fixing these other problems and make the rifle unsafe. There are a number of reports on the net where people's home trigger job turned the rifle into fully auto. I recommend you do it just for the kicks. But if you want real improvement you have to spend money. The cheaper best option is to buy KIDD drop in kit. The more expensive but even better option is to buy a 2-stage from Darrin.

Receiver and Bolt
Factory receiver is stamped, but oddly enough it works quite well. The factory bolt is also pretty good, I cannot feel any difference between it and hgih end stuff when shooting. So for these two items I think you can stick to the ruger stuff if you dont want to spend money. The skinny 3/8 inch factory scope rail works fine. the 10/22 does not have enough recoil to cause any issues so I dont see any point in replacing it - unless you want a rail with built in MOA compensation. Ruger factory barrels often have barrel drooping (barrel pointing downwards) so your scope may run out of adjustments. However you should an after market barrel then you will not have this problem. Rugger barrels's action end have narrower diameter to ensure quick and easy assemble, the looseness is what introduces the drooping. Aftermarket barrels all have much tighter tolerance (so much so you usually have to sand down it a little to fit it into the receiver) so you will not have drooping. The polymer buffer is a cheap mod, it may cause subs have cycle problems because there is not enough bang for the bolt to push thick, wax coated rounds all the way into the chamber. but on a whole it is probably a worthwhile trade off.

Stock

If you changed the barrel, chances are the factory stock will not fit, because almost all aftermarket barrels are 0.920 inch. Hogue is very light and offers good grip, but some may find it too soft. if you attach any accessories they may affect the stock that the barrel may no longer free float. Boyd stock is an excellent choice - if you can still manage to get them directly from the US.

What to Buy
If you just want a 10/22 for plinking, buy the cheapest one on trademe, it is as good as the new ones in the shops. Basic 10/22 are very reliable and will always be inaccurate.
If you want a highly accurate semi-auto for target shooting, do not buy a 10/22 and then buy upgrade parts, it is inefficient. Just buy a KIDD from Darrin or a Magnum Research.
If you have your mind set on upgrading your existing 10/22 then in order of importance and benefit, you should upgrade in this order - buffer, trigger, scope, barrel, stock.


Why do people bother with accurasing 10/22?
A lot of people ask this question. high end or highly modded 10/22s are easily $2000+, that is Annie 17xx territory. The first question is, how accurate can they be? If you buy a KIDD or Magnum research, it can be very accurate. while it will never be as accurate as a single shot annie Match 54 but it is not far off. The high end 10/22s have very tight chamber, but the problem is that every round is always slightly deformed as it was forced into the chamber. Most of the time it is only the wax coating that is affected but sometimes the lead must also be slightly affected. Also the triggers, even the mighty KIDD 2-stage, can only go down to 12 ounces ( 6+6). You can never have a annie class hair trigger.

The second question then is, why bother with such expensive 22LR that is never as good as a bolt action? The appeal in an highly accurate semi-auto is the fact that you do not have to re-position yourself after every shot, which you must do with a bolt-action. With a single shot bolt action, you have to move a lot to reload the round and work the bolt; with a repeater bolt action, you move less but still do have to move one arm a lot. That mean after each shot you have to position yourself again. it takes time and your may not get into the perfect position every time. If you are olympics class pro shooter who trains 4 hours a day, every day, then it is not an issue. You will always get into the right position every time. But if you are full time working weekend shooting hobbyist, you probably will not be that good. every time you reload and work the bolt, it lowers your overall consistency and therefore lowers your overall accuracy. For an average hobbyist, 95% consistency of 90% accuracy is much better than 70% consistency of 95% accuracy.

If you are hunting one shot animals, there is not much use for an accurate semi-auto. But if you are shooting possums for example, if you missed the first shot you often have a chance for a follow up shot, then semi-auto is excellent. An accurate semi-auto means you can pull off these 70 meter shots free hand kneeling, which you cannot do (reliably) with a factory grade semi-auto.

Ultimitsu - damn good write up.

My experience:

Whistlepig barrels need to be imported and don't get sent pre-threaded. Had a couple, usually $240ish NZD landed.
Very nice, light, easier to fit than KIDD.
Just as accurate as a KIDD for normal hunting use.

KIDD hardware is damn nice but it comes at a price.
I'm running a KIDD barrel currently and I like it.

Stocks - huge fan of the Magpul X22 stock that you can get from NZAR15. It's good.
Hogue stock is nice for a beater rifle that has a hard life. Much much nicer than the factory nylon stock.

Polymer bolt buffer - Nike. Just do it

Trigger - running the Ruger BX trigger. Better than the Volquartsen drop in kit, but Timney is better again, and KIDD simply dominates. VQ drop in starts about $80, Ruger BX for $199, Timney usually $450ish and KIDD about the same.
I'm trying to talk myself out of getting the KIDD and failing.

Originally Posted by Ultimitsu

An accurate semi-auto means you can pull off these 70 meter shots free hand kneeling, which you cannot do (reliably) with a factory grade semi-auto.

That depends on how wise a choice you make with your original purchase. If you buy the worlds largest selling 22lr semi auto action it is perfectly achievable and would be the expectation, and not the exception.

Originally Posted by gundoc

I put the barrel in the lathe and run a light knurl on the barrel shank to increase the diameter to a firm push fit, smear retaining grade Loctite on the shank and press in place (taking care to get correct alignment) then refit the barrel clamp with some normal grade Loctite on the screws. The barrel can be removed with heat to break down the Loctite, but no real reason exists to ever take the barrel out again unless it has been damaged. The standard Ruger barrels are perfectly accurate but minute movement between the barrel and the receiver (that has the scope attached) are the cause of their mediocre accuracy as they come from the factory. The late model 10/22's have a tighter barrel fit than the early ones. The standard triggers are also perfectly good subject to being given a good trigger job (not a job for amateurs).

You worked over the trigger and did a barrel chop, thread and put one of your suppressors on my fathers 10/22. Its a fantastic shooter. When you were still in the city.

I have an early (70s) 10/22 that also got the gundoc treatment on the trigger and threading (I bought it used, I'm not that old!). It's also a good shooter. A mate had a early 90s one and that too shot very well (same trigger job). Another guy had a "deluxe" of the same era and found his was a total dog which annoyed him no end when he shot with us. Seems the later production have gone downhill?

I also stripped the polyurethane off the stock and oiled it. Looks like a different rifle now.

I wonder how many of these things gundoc touched up over the years!

Good write up @Ultimitsu.

I agree that a b/a will probably rate higher for accuracy, but also agree that 95% of 90% is better grouping with the s/a. I think I follows your maths anyway.

I think that because the Ruger has so many customisable options, it appeals. Like a Harley..........

Having said that, I enjoy my 10/22. If following this I find some not-crazy-$ ideas that help improve my (rifle's) accuracy, all the better.

Waiting to get mine back and see how it behaves.... Speaking of what thread have people got on a 10/22 standard 1/2*20? Going to take pics of one on another barrel and post on what's the thread.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

That depends on how wise a choice you make with your original purchase. If you buy the worlds largest selling 22lr semi auto action it is perfectly achievable and would be the expectation, and not the exception.

I respect people having their own view and preference. But I am truly uncertain about the accuracy claims of the 795. I believe it is probably quite accurate for a factory semi auto, especially a low end one. But people make them out to be CZ class accurate which I have trouble believing.

I did a google image search of "marin 795 grouping", below is the first 4 grouping images I find:

1. 25 yards with various ammo, original URL - Marlin 795 thread [Archive] - Page 2 - Calguns.net
it is definitely not CZ class and definitely not going to reliably hit rabbits/magpie at 70 metres.


2. 40 shots at 50 yards. Again, below CZ class. original URL Marlin 795 Break in + Zeroing - RimfireCentral.com Forums




3. various ammo at 25 Yards.



4. the best looking group so far, still around 1 inch at 50 yards. url https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...curacy.728753/



In the field and kneeling, even good shooters will do a 1 inch spread at 50 meters, if the rifle is 1.5 inch at 50, then you get a combined spread of 2.5 inches; at 70 meters it will be almost a 4 inch spread. you cannot reliably hit a rabbit sized target.

There is no shame in 50 metres 1.5 inch group for a factory semi-auto. Even the highest end single shot rifle can shoot 0.5 inch groups with some (not so cheap) ammo: Testing .22 LR ammo In A Bleiker Rifle - Updated With Targets - Topic

"We got one of those Swiss made Bleiker rifles. This particular model is supposed to be one of the most accurate made for the .22 long rifle cartridge."

"50-Yard Results
0.162 Eley Tenex Ultimate EPS
...
0.513 Winchester Super X
0.516 Kassnar Concorde
0.539 CCI Blazer
0.560 Winchester Supreme Pistol
0.576 Norinco Pistol Revolver
0.593 SK Standard
0.611 Sellier And Bellot HP
0.626 SK Standard HP
0.686 Logo HV
0.956 Pobjeda Target"

Originally Posted by Gerbs

Whistlepig barrels need to be imported and don't get sent pre-threaded. Had a couple, usually $240ish NZD landed.
Very nice, light, easier to fit than KIDD.
Just as accurate as a KIDD for normal hunting use.

KIDD hardware is damn nice but it comes at a price.
I'm running a KIDD barrel currently and I like it.

Stocks - huge fan of the Magpul X22 stock that you can get from NZAR15. It's good.
Hogue stock is nice for a beater rifle that has a hard life. Much much nicer than the factory nylon stock.

Polymer bolt buffer - Nike. Just do it

Trigger - running the Ruger BX trigger. Better than the Volquartsen drop in kit, but Timney is better again, and KIDD simply dominates. VQ drop in starts about $80, Ruger BX for $199, Timney usually $450ish and KIDD about the same.
I'm trying to talk myself out of getting the KIDD and failing.

Thanks Gerbs. I got my whistlepig pre-threaded, it did add to the cost but I thought it was better than getting someone else to do it. it was threated to USA standard of 1/2 28 TPI.

Do not try the kidd 2 stage, it is like smoking, if you start you will never be an addict.

Best thing I did was buy a Remington 597 and install a volquartsen ejector.

Originally Posted by Ultimitsu

I respect people having their own view and preference. But I am truly uncertain about the accuracy claims of the 795. I believe it is probably quite accurate for a factory semi auto, especially a low end one. But people make them out to be CZ class accurate which I have trouble believing.

I did a google image search of "marin 795 grouping", below is the first 4 grouping images I find:

1. 25 yards with various ammo, original URL - Marlin 795 thread [Archive] - Page 2 - Calguns.net
it is definitely not CZ class and definitely not going to reliably hit rabbits/magpie at 70 metres.
Attachment 61567

2. 40 shots at 50 yards. Again, below CZ class. original URL Marlin 795 Break in + Zeroing - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Attachment 61568


3. various ammo at 25 Yards.

Attachment 61569

4. the best looking group so far, still around 1 inch at 50 yards. url https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...curacy.728753/

Attachment 61579

In the field and kneeling, even good shooters will do a 1 inch spread at 50 meters, if the rifle is 1.5 inch at 50, then you get a combined spread of 2.5 inches; at 70 meters it will be almost a 4 inch spread. you cannot reliably hit a rabbit sized target.

There is no shame in 50 metres 1.5 inch group for a factory semi-auto. Even the highest end single shot rifle can shoot 0.5 inch groups with some (not so cheap) ammo: Testing .22 LR ammo In A Bleiker Rifle - Updated With Targets - Topic

"We got one of those Swiss made Bleiker rifles. This particular model is supposed to be one of the most accurate made for the .22 long rifle cartridge."

"50-Yard Results
0.162 Eley Tenex Ultimate EPS
...
0.513 Winchester Super X
0.516 Kassnar Concorde
0.539 CCI Blazer
0.560 Winchester Supreme Pistol
0.576 Norinco Pistol Revolver
0.593 SK Standard
0.611 Sellier And Bellot HP
0.626 SK Standard HP
0.686 Logo HV
0.956 Pobjeda Target"

You should cast your net a little wider, or closer to home. I have a friend down here that was of similar opinion regarding semiautos. After a bit of hands on testing his opinion changed. The Marlin 60's have a bit more accuracy over the 795's. Before buying a semi I checked out rimfire central and checked out a number of threads on owners of both the Ruger and Marlin. If they wanted to hunt or target shoot it was almost invariably the Marlin that was picked up, for pimping and plinking the Ruger.

But to say that it is no good for reliably shooting rabbits past 70m is totally misleading and misinformed. I would be happy shooting rabbits to 110m with at least a 95% strike rate on the boiler room, along with many of the others I hunt with. My 795 is standard other than a scope and floppy spring to replace the anti lawsuit factory trigger return spring.

Originally Posted by 7x64

I wonder how many of these things gundoc touched up over the years!

I probably averaged 5 a week for more than 40 years. Sometimes I did them in case lots for retailers. I also made a good number of fully suppressed bolt-action .22's (mostly JW15's) that my customers named 'click-pops' (the click of the firing pin and the pop of the rabbit). I would buy 10 rifle case lots of JW15's, tune the bolt and trigger, shorten the barrel to 13" and turn in down in diameter, port the barrel with 12 holes about 2.5" back from the muzzle, thread the barrel just in front of the receiver and fit a full length overbarrel suppressor, and modify the stock barrel channel to suit. They were very quiet and stunningly accurate with Winchester subsonics (1/2" or better at 50 metres). Back to point of 10/22's, the factory barrels are perfectly accurate when properly fitted (just like the Norinco JW15's). Ultimitsu's post above is a real good example of how to waste money. My earlier post in this thread tells how to achieve the same results for well under $100. Go figure!