Some aftermarket 10/22 pattern receivers are threaded, and accept a threaded barrel. Other than that, the option is fully bed, including the barrel channel to ensure the barrel does not droop on the alloy action.
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Some aftermarket 10/22 pattern receivers are threaded, and accept a threaded barrel. Other than that, the option is fully bed, including the barrel channel to ensure the barrel does not droop on the alloy action.
How much you looking for for it? Pm me pics and price if you likeQuote:
Originally Posted by johnd
I put the barrel in the lathe and run a light knurl on the barrel shank to increase the diameter to a firm push fit, smear retaining grade Loctite on the shank and press in place (taking care to get correct alignment) then refit the barrel clamp with some normal grade Loctite on the screws. The barrel can be removed with heat to break down the Loctite, but no real reason exists to ever take the barrel out again unless it has been damaged. The standard Ruger barrels are perfectly accurate but minute movement between the barrel and the receiver (that has the scope attached) are the cause of their mediocre accuracy as they come from the factory. The late model 10/22's have a tighter barrel fit than the early ones. The standard triggers are also perfectly good subject to being given a good trigger job (not a job for amateurs).Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin358
Shame you're retired then ain't it ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
Started playing around with my 10/22 recently. Not going to get one but didn't realise that these were available https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CNChFq5g7To
Charging handle that is for lefties, mounts into the scope rail with a catch to pull back on the factory handle
The design has merit, but I suspect the Gun City implementation is not quite up to the Volquartsen standard. https://www.volquartsen.com/products...tension-barrel.
The suppressor is separate from the barrel, but keeps the same form factor for a better aesthetic. The suppressor is totally rubbish at sound suppression by the way. I believe the suppressor is part of the barrel price and are sold together.
Here's my wee project - If i can call it that.
Somebody had lovingly put this together but had made some glaring errors so was obviously sold as it didn't shoot as well as they hoped. As Gun doc says a bit of love and attention goes a long way... I bought it mainly for the B&C odyssey stock and the Volquartsen barrel which is otherwise worth a the entire normal 10/22 in price. On closer inspection the only thing that was stock was the receiver housing with the serials attached. Everything else was Volquartsen or B&C
I really like the rail tapped to the barrel rather than the receiver (how many of you have seen those misaligned over the years!!
OK so what it wouldn't do....
1. Extract CCI out of the barrel given the fine tolerances of the Volquartsen target barrel - Would shoot SK fine... but that's getting had to find these days.... little bit of love to create a deeper extraction depression on the barrel end with the Dremel diamond burr and polish out. Now it grabs the edge of the round extracting happily for those wax covered rounds.
2. Polish internal face of the receiver to mate to nice polished block of the action. as this is a metal to metal face and can fill with carbon over time I like to polish up so you can tell when its clean and tidy.
3. Dremel polish /light grind for the housing around the mag area so that the standard 10 box would fall nicely out of the stock when you hit the release button. Now this was more for me shooting details so there wasn't mucking around etc with mag changes as the B&C was a tight fit so we just made sure this was optimised.
4. Take the tension out of the rear grub srcrew in the rail as this was screwed in too tight and lifted the bum of the scope. Sat the straight edge on this and reset apropriately.
5. Took the barrel out and reseated - similar to Gun doc said the V block was tightened incorrectly twisting the barrel down into the barrel channel. As there was a very firm fit - we re-seated and re torqued the v block with correct settings hey presto no touching the channel once a small metal washer was placed under the king screw also - as as a checking point prior to a proper bedding job.
Haven't got to the bedding job yet - haven't needed to shoots happily cci standard rounds at 1/2 nail size (if I do my thing any way)
Next change on the list and what I would recommend is a Kidd aftermarket trigger from Darrin at USA Guns Ltd as the Volquartsen one it comes with is a consistent single setting of 2.5 lb's.
We'll see if I can be bothered in doing a full bedding and rear Kidd lug for this one in the future.
Here she is...
Attachment 60901
Attachment 60902
Trigger job and threading by Gundoc, Choate Draganov stock, weaver base with 3.5-10X50 scope (BSA Phantom) Shoots bloody well and has killed over 5000 bunnies
Anyone know who would sell spare magazine retention plunger and spring? No idea where mine went in the process of stripping it down for a good clean and putting a new stock on
Bugger. Bloody Weka's.Quote:
Originally Posted by 223nut
I've just fitted my choate dragunov stock; what's the smart trick to removing the rear sight block so I can fit the upper part too? (Without removing my scope)
i didnt have too, it had a cut out that went over the rear sight. however if you want to remove it put something that wont scratch it like a toothbrush handle and tap it out with a hammer from right to leftQuote:
Originally Posted by SiB
Nope just an idiot with a screwdriver that tried doing thing in a shed full of carp not on a clean work table...Quote:
Originally Posted by planenutz
a shed full of carp? the fish smell would be as bad as a lesbian mardi gras !!Quote:
Originally Posted by 223nut
Like the left hand charging handle
I have a slide on plastic silencer which I use when needed. Not flash but does the job. Don't bother with the hose clip
????Quote:
Originally Posted by 223nut
Attachment 60916
I just don't get this, it's so easy to cut a slot and make a proper left handed charging handle for a ruger 10/22.Quote:
Originally Posted by sako75
Hell, without a machine shop I have even made three left hand eject ones for mates-it's hardly rocket science!
That sounds like fun. Most of it seems straight forward. Did you close off the right side or leave it open?Quote:
Originally Posted by res
I had one of the kidd ones
only part labeled ruger was the mag...... that was fantastic it was my 25m indoor rifle which replaced a bolt action
was over 2k worth then I had a 6-20 leupold on top
was the only 10/22 if had (an ive had a few) that's been truly what I call accurate (same hole at 25m,well under an inch at 50,and close to an inch at 100)
I stupidly sold that rifle way to cheep after failing on trademe a couple of times a guy was trying to work me down over the phone I was busy and and in a hurry at the time and agreed on a price I shouldn't have I tried to renege the next day but he gave me the major gilt trip he got a real good deal there
they are the most reliable semi 22 on the market maybe not the most accurate out the box (but easily modifiable as title says) a fantastic bunny gun get the right ammo keep it clean and you will never have a jam
Left it open, well at least one of the guys has closed it with duct tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by planenutz
Closing it up properly is beyond my abilities as a welder unfortunately-I know, I should hand in my man card.
the best thing I ever did to my 10/22 was sell it for something that actually shot well.
after a lot of research I settled on the marlin model 60 deluxe.
$470 new, accurate, nice wood and doesn't play up.
I think from memory they have sold more model 60s than the 10/22.
the only mod I have done is a trigger job for $40.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
I love the model 60 great rifles ive had a couple of them aswellQuote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
but there are disadvantages I don't like tube feed really I like to have mags in my pocket and be able to quick change when empty
the model 60 (compared to the ruger) is a pain in the arse to strip and clean (but its not that hard really once you have done it a few times
the major advantage of a model 60 is on the accuracy front
the model 60 and ruger are on par reliability wise as long as they are kept clean but that goes for any semi auto they work better when clean
Yeh was in Serious Shooters some time ago gazing at the 22s, and the gun expurt said what I needed was a 10/22, the most sold 22 in history. When I corrected him his eyes just glazed over and he ignored me. IIRC I think it is something like 15 million Marlin 60/795s to around 10 million rugas.Quote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
I have a 795 :thumbsup:
Fuse lit. Withdrawing a safe distance now.......
Let's start with what ruger has done right - the mag. The factory mags, black, clear, 10 shots, 25 shots, are all very good and the most reliable ones you can buy. There exists a aftermarket version that opens the bolt automatically after the mag is empty, I never try it and it is quite expensive, but if reliable then it is quite an interesting upgrade.
Now let's discuss everything else:
Barrel
Factory barrel is sub par compared to all other rifles of the same price range (or slightly below). But it is very reliably. Ruger makes them tolerant to all different sorts of ammos but in the process made them inaccurate. decent enough for plinking but not good enough for hunting and worse for target shooting. There are several good options:
1. KIDD ultralite. Possibly the best value that you can buy in NZ. Good enough for target shooting and great for hunting.
2. Whistlepig. Cheaper than KIDD but harder to get, very similar in quality and accuracy. Very very light.
3, KIDD bullbarrel. Very accurate and reliable, reasonably priced. If you fancy yourself as tough guy then take it out to hunting too. I do not think it offers enough accuracy advantage over the ultralight version, but is about twice as heavy.
4, Magnum Research carbon fibre. The only carbon fibre covered 10/22 barrel that is actually ultra light and ultra accurate. Very hard to buy and possibly very expensive.
Screw on barrel/action sets are slightly more accurate, but not enough to compensate for the loss of convenience. KIDD used to make them as their supergrade, but now dropped this design in favour of a new slot in design (which is different and superior to ruger's factual v-block design).
VERY IMPORTANT: unless you only shoot off bench rest, do not upgrade barrel until you have upgraded the trigger.
TRIGGER
Factory trigger is super bad. Super heavy, long travel, and uncertain break. Home modding can only lighten the weight but not fixing these other problems and make the rifle unsafe. There are a number of reports on the net where people's home trigger job turned the rifle into fully auto. I recommend you do it just for the kicks. But if you want real improvement you have to spend money. The cheaper best option is to buy KIDD drop in kit. The more expensive but even better option is to buy a 2-stage from Darrin.
Receiver and Bolt
Factory receiver is stamped, but oddly enough it works quite well. The factory bolt is also pretty good, I cannot feel any difference between it and hgih end stuff when shooting. So for these two items I think you can stick to the ruger stuff if you dont want to spend money. The skinny 3/8 inch factory scope rail works fine. the 10/22 does not have enough recoil to cause any issues so I dont see any point in replacing it - unless you want a rail with built in MOA compensation. Ruger factory barrels often have barrel drooping (barrel pointing downwards) so your scope may run out of adjustments. However you should an after market barrel then you will not have this problem. Rugger barrels's action end have narrower diameter to ensure quick and easy assemble, the looseness is what introduces the drooping. Aftermarket barrels all have much tighter tolerance (so much so you usually have to sand down it a little to fit it into the receiver) so you will not have drooping. The polymer buffer is a cheap mod, it may cause subs have cycle problems because there is not enough bang for the bolt to push thick, wax coated rounds all the way into the chamber. but on a whole it is probably a worthwhile trade off.
Stock
If you changed the barrel, chances are the factory stock will not fit, because almost all aftermarket barrels are 0.920 inch. Hogue is very light and offers good grip, but some may find it too soft. if you attach any accessories they may affect the stock that the barrel may no longer free float. Boyd stock is an excellent choice - if you can still manage to get them directly from the US.
What to Buy
If you just want a 10/22 for plinking, buy the cheapest one on trademe, it is as good as the new ones in the shops. Basic 10/22 are very reliable and will always be inaccurate.
If you want a highly accurate semi-auto for target shooting, do not buy a 10/22 and then buy upgrade parts, it is inefficient. Just buy a KIDD from Darrin or a Magnum Research.
If you have your mind set on upgrading your existing 10/22 then in order of importance and benefit, you should upgrade in this order - buffer, trigger, scope, barrel, stock.
Why do people bother with accurasing 10/22?
A lot of people ask this question. high end or highly modded 10/22s are easily $2000+, that is Annie 17xx territory. The first question is, how accurate can they be? If you buy a KIDD or Magnum research, it can be very accurate. while it will never be as accurate as a single shot annie Match 54 but it is not far off. The high end 10/22s have very tight chamber, but the problem is that every round is always slightly deformed as it was forced into the chamber. Most of the time it is only the wax coating that is affected but sometimes the lead must also be slightly affected. Also the triggers, even the mighty KIDD 2-stage, can only go down to 12 ounces ( 6+6). You can never have a annie class hair trigger.
The second question then is, why bother with such expensive 22LR that is never as good as a bolt action? The appeal in an highly accurate semi-auto is the fact that you do not have to re-position yourself after every shot, which you must do with a bolt-action. With a single shot bolt action, you have to move a lot to reload the round and work the bolt; with a repeater bolt action, you move less but still do have to move one arm a lot. That mean after each shot you have to position yourself again. it takes time and your may not get into the perfect position every time. If you are olympics class pro shooter who trains 4 hours a day, every day, then it is not an issue. You will always get into the right position every time. But if you are full time working weekend shooting hobbyist, you probably will not be that good. every time you reload and work the bolt, it lowers your overall consistency and therefore lowers your overall accuracy. For an average hobbyist, 95% consistency of 90% accuracy is much better than 70% consistency of 95% accuracy.
If you are hunting one shot animals, there is not much use for an accurate semi-auto. But if you are shooting possums for example, if you missed the first shot you often have a chance for a follow up shot, then semi-auto is excellent. An accurate semi-auto means you can pull off these 70 meter shots free hand kneeling, which you cannot do (reliably) with a factory grade semi-auto.
Ultimitsu - damn good write up.
My experience:
Whistlepig barrels need to be imported and don't get sent pre-threaded. Had a couple, usually $240ish NZD landed.
Very nice, light, easier to fit than KIDD.
Just as accurate as a KIDD for normal hunting use.
KIDD hardware is damn nice but it comes at a price.
I'm running a KIDD barrel currently and I like it.
Stocks - huge fan of the Magpul X22 stock that you can get from NZAR15. It's good.
Hogue stock is nice for a beater rifle that has a hard life. Much much nicer than the factory nylon stock.
Polymer bolt buffer - Nike. Just do it
Trigger - running the Ruger BX trigger. Better than the Volquartsen drop in kit, but Timney is better again, and KIDD simply dominates. VQ drop in starts about $80, Ruger BX for $199, Timney usually $450ish and KIDD about the same.
I'm trying to talk myself out of getting the KIDD and failing.
That depends on how wise a choice you make with your original purchase. If you buy the worlds largest selling 22lr semi auto action it is perfectly achievable and would be the expectation, and not the exception.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultimitsu
You worked over the trigger and did a barrel chop, thread and put one of your suppressors on my fathers 10/22. Its a fantastic shooter. When you were still in the city.Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
I have an early (70s) 10/22 that also got the gundoc treatment on the trigger and threading (I bought it used, I'm not that old!). It's also a good shooter. A mate had a early 90s one and that too shot very well (same trigger job). Another guy had a "deluxe" of the same era and found his was a total dog which annoyed him no end when he shot with us. Seems the later production have gone downhill?
I also stripped the polyurethane off the stock and oiled it. Looks like a different rifle now.
I wonder how many of these things gundoc touched up over the years!
Good write up @Ultimitsu.
I agree that a b/a will probably rate higher for accuracy, but also agree that 95% of 90% is better grouping with the s/a. I think I follows your maths anyway.
I think that because the Ruger has so many customisable options, it appeals. Like a Harley..........
Having said that, I enjoy my 10/22. If following this I find some not-crazy-$ ideas that help improve my (rifle's) accuracy, all the better.
Waiting to get mine back and see how it behaves.... Speaking of what thread have people got on a 10/22 standard 1/2*20? Going to take pics of one on another barrel and post on what's the thread.
I respect people having their own view and preference. But I am truly uncertain about the accuracy claims of the 795. I believe it is probably quite accurate for a factory semi auto, especially a low end one. But people make them out to be CZ class accurate which I have trouble believing.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
I did a google image search of "marin 795 grouping", below is the first 4 grouping images I find:
1. 25 yards with various ammo, original URL - Marlin 795 thread [Archive] - Page 2 - Calguns.net
it is definitely not CZ class and definitely not going to reliably hit rabbits/magpie at 70 metres.
Attachment 61567
2. 40 shots at 50 yards. Again, below CZ class. original URL Marlin 795 Break in + Zeroing - RimfireCentral.com Forums
Attachment 61568
3. various ammo at 25 Yards.
Attachment 61569
4. the best looking group so far, still around 1 inch at 50 yards. url https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...curacy.728753/
Attachment 61579
In the field and kneeling, even good shooters will do a 1 inch spread at 50 meters, if the rifle is 1.5 inch at 50, then you get a combined spread of 2.5 inches; at 70 meters it will be almost a 4 inch spread. you cannot reliably hit a rabbit sized target.
There is no shame in 50 metres 1.5 inch group for a factory semi-auto. Even the highest end single shot rifle can shoot 0.5 inch groups with some (not so cheap) ammo: Testing .22 LR ammo In A Bleiker Rifle - Updated With Targets - Topic
"We got one of those Swiss made Bleiker rifles. This particular model is supposed to be one of the most accurate made for the .22 long rifle cartridge."
"50-Yard Results
0.162 Eley Tenex Ultimate EPS
...
0.513 Winchester Super X
0.516 Kassnar Concorde
0.539 CCI Blazer
0.560 Winchester Supreme Pistol
0.576 Norinco Pistol Revolver
0.593 SK Standard
0.611 Sellier And Bellot HP
0.626 SK Standard HP
0.686 Logo HV
0.956 Pobjeda Target"
Thanks Gerbs. I got my whistlepig pre-threaded, it did add to the cost but I thought it was better than getting someone else to do it. it was threated to USA standard of 1/2 28 TPI.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerbs
Do not try the kidd 2 stage, it is like smoking, if you start you will never be an addict.
Best thing I did was buy a Remington 597 and install a volquartsen ejector.
You should cast your net a little wider, or closer to home. I have a friend down here that was of similar opinion regarding semiautos. After a bit of hands on testing his opinion changed. The Marlin 60's have a bit more accuracy over the 795's. Before buying a semi I checked out rimfire central and checked out a number of threads on owners of both the Ruger and Marlin. If they wanted to hunt or target shoot it was almost invariably the Marlin that was picked up, for pimping and plinking the Ruger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultimitsu
But to say that it is no good for reliably shooting rabbits past 70m is totally misleading and misinformed. I would be happy shooting rabbits to 110m with at least a 95% strike rate on the boiler room, along with many of the others I hunt with. My 795 is standard other than a scope and floppy spring to replace the anti lawsuit factory trigger return spring.
I probably averaged 5 a week for more than 40 years. Sometimes I did them in case lots for retailers. I also made a good number of fully suppressed bolt-action .22's (mostly JW15's) that my customers named 'click-pops' (the click of the firing pin and the pop of the rabbit). I would buy 10 rifle case lots of JW15's, tune the bolt and trigger, shorten the barrel to 13" and turn in down in diameter, port the barrel with 12 holes about 2.5" back from the muzzle, thread the barrel just in front of the receiver and fit a full length overbarrel suppressor, and modify the stock barrel channel to suit. They were very quiet and stunningly accurate with Winchester subsonics (1/2" or better at 50 metres). Back to point of 10/22's, the factory barrels are perfectly accurate when properly fitted (just like the Norinco JW15's). Ultimitsu's post above is a real good example of how to waste money. My earlier post in this thread tells how to achieve the same results for well under $100. Go figure!Quote:
Originally Posted by 7x64
I only just seen this post and read your comments with interest gundoc as until you mentioned the push fit barrels l had forgotten about them.Back in 85 l was shooting rabbits professionally in oz and the mob we were shooting for had a deal where once you proved your worth you could purchase through them at dealer rates customized Brno Model 2's and also custom 10/22's which had the following done to them-trigger job set at 2lbs-barrel permanently fitted (l thought they were silver soldered but they may well have been loc-tited as you said)-Cleaning hole drilled and tapped-weaver bases with a 2x loopy fitted these were guaranteed to shoot 1/2 inch at 50 mtrs at most and all came with the test target. l got my boss to rummage through them at the office and got one that shot just over 3/8 with the plain wrap bulk winchester solids we used (everything had to be head shot).These were what we used to shoot in the sun set hours from the ute as we drove to our spotlighting block, the rabbits were that thick on the edge of the salt bush desert country where we shot a lot of the rabbits did not burrow but would just push up the salt bush into little hutches and squat there thinking they were safe,the 10/22's were easier to use than a bolt for the bulk shooting involved,we would then swap over to the Brno's for the spotlighting later we had to average 200 pair a night to make a good quid and we shot 250-300 pair a lot of the time.Those little rugers spent their whole working life covered in the fine talcum like desert dust and would only hiccup when maintenance was not kept up .All the work was done by a Gunsmith in Sydney named Heimo Petzl who also set up our Fox and roo Rem 700's in .222, l put that much lead through the ruger l could hit quail flying with it and head shooting rabbits on the run was no problem,l much later went on to represent my state in Skeet shooting and shot on invitation internationally and l really believe it was my time behind the butt on that Ruger that got me to that level.
,Gundoc did you use to bed them and put a crossbolt in through the rear trigger group pin?l posted elsewhere in the thread about the custom rugers we used and they were bedded and the cross bolts fitted and the front barrel band removed.
No, never bothered with bedding unless a customer specifically asked for it. I found the standard front action screw was perfectly adequate for good accuracy, and the barrel was sufficiently stiff to allow the use of the barrel band without problems. With the standard system the action is floating, and with the barrel permanently fitted they shot well.Quote:
Originally Posted by bunji
Yes l was always dubious on it and in the end my rifle like a few others l heard of with that mod succumbed to cracking at this point,but it must be said they were shot 10X as much as a regular owner would in a life time over the 5 yrs l shot pro and we would totally strip and clean once a week,l have looked at a few of the high end modified 10/22's over the years and seen that none seemed to do this so figured it was of little real value.I have always thought the rugers got a bad rapp from owners neglect more than anything else.
Well, good sir, your post puzzle me incredibly. I do not know you and I do not think you know me. What is with the hostility?Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
I have read all your posts in this thread, the only mod you are suggesting that would affect accuracy of the barrel is "permanently fix the barrel to the receiver". You appear to be saying both that - 1. this is the only cause of 10/22's reputed inaccuracy; and 2. if this is done the rifle should have very good accuracy.
That simply is not true.
There are a number of rifles that has similar quick barrel removal set ups, CZ455 and Sako Quad for example. Yet both are reputed to have accuracy on the other end of the spectrum as the 10/22. In fact, if you put ANY aftermarket slide-in barrel on a factory 10/22 you will notice an instant accuracy improvement. That proves that the problem is not the slide-in fitting but the 10/22 barrel itself.
As for the idea of "waste money". I am not sure what you mean. 10/22's aftermarket stocks and barrels are about the same price as any other guns' (and 10/22 needs them more than most). Are you suggesting that everyone who changes stock and barrel for any gun is wasting money?
The only expensive part that stands out for 10/22 is trigger upgrades. A top end trigger (KIDD 2 stage) cost 600 bucks, that is more than a base rifle. However because the way the factory trigger is designed and the semi-auto nature of the rifle, there is no cheaper way to achieve the same result. If you want to spend less, a drop-in kit cost about 40% that and gives you very good result.
Upgrading parts is expensive for any rifle. The appeal of 10/22 is that most of the upgraded stuff are very easy to install at home and little experience, tools, and hands-on-skill is required.
