Thread: Ruger American rifles

Really good out of the box, and can be tweaked to go even better.

Mines the Ranch in 300 - quite similar to the the Predator.

Things to note for the tweaks. The V blocks are awesome - if you bed using the glue and screw method its very easy and similar to bedding in a AI stock. Ruger recommend 60Ft pound of torque on the action screws or "very firmly with a allen key - in their video" If you glue you can go lighter than this as the small epoxy blobs on the face of the block will absorb and transfer the harmonics rather than the alu to barrel recess being screwed tightly against one another to get a good mating of the surfaces.

If you're worried the fore-end is a bit springy and could be on a bi-pod or held into a position that may touch the barrel its easy to fill this with compound (including the next section under the barrel nut with compound - I used Nathan Fosters Stock stabiliser for less than $30 Now its good...

Trigger - there are good instructions on the likes of rimfire central how to decrease trigger pull weight - mine started at about 6lbs and is now about 2.5 with one turn of spring cut off. they advocate 1.75 - but start small you can't put it back. If you really ruin it you can chuck a Timney in for about $290. But if you have the skills or a friendly gunsmith is a about use the existing.

When I got mine it had creep in it. The sear was .8 and really long so we knocked it back to .3 and its taken 70% of the creep out. We also found it was tool steel so no issues honing and polishing ending up wit ha increasingly gritty trigger like you do with some of the AR chemically hardened sears in their triggers.

Hope this helps - But well worth the investment a $799 dollar gun shoots now like a 2 grand one for $30 and time (of course a wee bit more if you get a gunsmith to do this).

If thats the model with the plastic magzine then be prepared to swear, a lot. They dont feed very well at all

Originally Posted by Carpe Diem

Trigger - there are good instructions on the likes of rimfire central how to decrease trigger pull weight - mine started at about 6lbs and is now about 2.5 with one turn of spring cut off. they advocate 1.75 - but start small you can't put it back. If you really ruin it you can chuck a Timney in for about $290. But if you have the skills or a friendly gunsmith is a about use the existing.

When I got mine it had creep in it. The sear was .8 and really long so we knocked it back to .3 and its taken 70% of the creep out. We also found it was tool steel so no issues honing and polishing ending up wit ha increasingly gritty trigger like you do with some of the AR chemically hardened sears in their triggers.
.

@Carpe Diem
Don't these have the factory adjustable trigger, simply wind the grub screw in or out to adjust?




Sent from my workbench

Originally Posted by smidey

@Carpe Diem
Don't these have the factory adjustable trigger, simply wind the grub screw in or out to adjust?




Sent from my workbench

Yep they do just remove the stock and adjust really simple, the leaflet on how to do it was in the box

Originally Posted by Natatale

Yep they do just remove the stock and adjust really simple, the leaflet on how to do it was in the box

Yeah I did both of mine but thought I had missed something our the 30 cals had some thing different haha

Sent from my workbench

The problems with the Ruger magzines seems to be hit and miss. Some have no problems and others ? A friend of mine bought one of the Rugers and on his 3rd magazine. The first shell would feed no problems but that was all

Originally Posted by Carpe Diem

Really good out of the box, and can be tweaked to go even better.

Mines the Ranch in 300 - quite similar to the the Predator.

Things to note for the tweaks. The V blocks are awesome - if you bed using the glue and screw method its very easy and similar to bedding in a AI stock. Ruger recommend 60Ft pound of torque on the action screws or "very firmly with a allen key - in their video" If you glue you can go lighter than this as the small epoxy blobs on the face of the block will absorb and transfer the harmonics rather than the alu to barrel recess being screwed tightly against one another to get a good mating of the surfaces.

If you're worried the fore-end is a bit springy and could be on a bi-pod or held into a position that may touch the barrel its easy to fill this with compound (including the next section under the barrel nut with compound - I used Nathan Fosters Stock stabiliser for less than $30 Now its good...

Trigger - there are good instructions on the likes of rimfire central how to decrease trigger pull weight - mine started at about 6lbs and is now about 2.5 with one turn of spring cut off. they advocate 1.75 - but start small you can't put it back. If you really ruin it you can chuck a Timney in for about $290. But if you have the skills or a friendly gunsmith is a about use the existing.

When I got mine it had creep in it. The sear was .8 and really long so we knocked it back to .3 and its taken 70% of the creep out. We also found it was tool steel so no issues honing and polishing ending up wit ha increasingly gritty trigger like you do with some of the AR chemically hardened sears in their triggers.

Hope this helps - But well worth the investment a $799 dollar gun shoots now like a 2 grand one for $30 and time (of course a wee bit more if you get a gunsmith to do this).

are you sure its 60ft lb that would probably snap the screws off

Just watched the video again at Ruger Ruger Videos

Info is almost at the end of the video and they say 75 Inch pounds or as tight as you can hand tighten with a standard Allen wrench sorry I read "Lbs as 'lb's.... bit of a difference but still really tight...