Thread: Ruger m77 torque settings

Done some work on my m77mk1 25-06 today which required removal of the stock
And wanted to put it back to factory torque settings (or suggested ones aleast)
A quick search on the net reading a few sites and they all said
90-95lbs (i geuss thats inch lb??) for the front screw 30lbs for the middle one and anywhere between just nipped up and 30lbs for the rear one depending on site

I was just wondering what people do there’s to
My torque driver only goes to 72inlb and im not even strong enough to get that amount of torque on a screw anyway lol so something may be dodgy with the info 90inlb isf**kin tight

Half that would be about right. I do mine up to 45 front and 35-40 rear. At 90 you’d strip the threads I think.

do them up tight, its not a benchrest rifle

The advantage to torqueing rifles if if you need to take the stock off ie you have been hunting in the rain and take the rifle out of the stock
To dry it
If you torque it the same as it was you should not need to rezero the rifle
If you do it with out you risk changing the zero
Also if you have the tools to do it right why wouldn’t you
I could just chuck my ammunition together also but it only takes a extra few minutes to do things right and have the rifle as accurate as it can be yes its a hunting rifle but if you can get it as good as possible why not

Just my veiws
Just my veiw

I have never had to re zero a rifle after taking it out of the stockand I take mine out heaps, the scope is attached to the rifle not the stock, do them up firm and job done

I have a bunch of m77s the normal procedure for them is 90 in lbs for the front screw. This is for non oiled screws. I just wipe mine pretty clean and put 60 inch lbs as that's all my wheeler does plus an extra quarter turn (note this is very tight) can't go as high on the wood stocks if not pillar bedded as it will compress the wood. For wood 60inch pounds is the go to. This high torque is due to the weird 45 degree front screw.

Once this is done up do the rear to 40inch pounds and the. The middle screw just tight enough to not come loose.(doesn't take much torque on the middle screw to torque the action as it's unsupported.

This combo leads to the beat accuracy typically. Before I had a torque wrench I would do the front as tight as you can without slipping with the correct size flathead. The rear pretty tight but not as much as the front (smaller bolt) and the middle usually I just get it so it holds.

Important to do them in that order.

With my 308 it took it from a 2-3moa rifle she i did the all tight to a ~1 moa rifle after I stopped cranking the middle and started always doing the front up first.m

What a bloody rigmarole, I’m with Ryan on this.

Originally Posted by MSL

What a bloody rigmarole, I’m with Ryan on this.

Do you have a Ruger?