We purchased belmonts entire available stock of their new 300blk ammo. Price is $75 for 50 rounds. Our testing has this as an awesome hunting supersonic round. Will list it in the next day or so.
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We purchased belmonts entire available stock of their new 300blk ammo. Price is $75 for 50 rounds. Our testing has this as an awesome hunting supersonic round. Will list it in the next day or so.
I buy mine 300 blackout brass now from these guys. 300 Blackout Brass at GSI International
They will ship to NZ, email them for a shipping quote (Shipping is nearly as much as the cases $60 USD).
I have bought 3000 from them at less than $200 NZD per 1000. Dollar has dropped but you should be able to land them here for about $235 NZD per 1000 still.
I use to make my own brass but at around $235 per 1000 its not worth the time or effort.
Makes for cheap shooting.
Email address for GSI is sales@gsiinternational.com
Ask them to email through an Order Form and ask them for a shipping quote to your address for the quantity you need.
To easy.
Brass is normally 70% Lake City and 30% WCC (Western Cartridge Company), is reasonably clean and reasonably tidy.
I always fill length resize before I use it.
Normally biff 5 per 1000 due to dents etc.
First shot using CMJ 155gn projectiles costs me under $0.60 cents a shot.
2nd shot onwards costs me under $0.40 cents a shot.
@Digit what projectile, Local gun Shop has some Fiocchi 50 packs inbound for $65, but all FMJ, not cheap enough to let off just for the brassQuote:
Originally Posted by Digit
Just got it back from the gunsmith
Attachment 40717
Woodleigh 125 grain PP. Ideal hunting round. Doug tested them at around MOA for 3 shots, and ideal expansion for hunting.
Looks nice and compact, what length barrel is it now?Quote:
Originally Posted by specweapon
10" near flush with the front of the forestock
Bit of a shit day yesterday, went up to the range to fire the first shots from the Ruger, all was good and with a 75yd zero was hitting steel at 100-200 and 300m no sweat, then the bolt got harder harder to pull back, i had just stuffed 6 rounds into the magazine so thought it might have been that, next shot had to wrench the bolt to get it back, so had a look at the ejected brass and every one has a clear gouge out at exactly 12 o clock position in the chamber, looking up the magwell I can clearly see a large burr or something in the chamber.
I know the gunsmith never removed the barrel when it was shortened because he told me he just clamped the action in his lathe
So this must be a factory flaw? I'm heading down the the local gun shop soon to see what they think
Attachment 40961
Specwepon - sad to hear abour the Burr. I guess you will need to a local gunsmith now as the alterations look like they might be noticed under warranty. :ORLY:
Nah you should get sorted pretty easy peasy I'd have thought.
Btw - Have you needed to stabilise the fore-end touching supressor or barrel as mine did (as it was bought) and really did well from having this done to it as well as the glue and screw method of bedding Nathan F advocates in AICS stocks - closed up nicely by about a third. Did you also have the trigger shaved a bit for creep and pull weight? mine also really did well from a wee trip to the diamond hone file on the sear.
Yeah they'll probably just tell me the same story but worth a shot seeing as its their gunsmith that did the work and shortening the barrel would have had no effect on the chamber.
Otherwise it'll be some emery paper on a 222 case to polish it out.
I will need to stabilise it, it's free floating but very easy for it to bend and touch the suppressor just shooting from a rest.
Haven't touched the trigger yet, funnily cos I didn't want to cause any warranty issues in case of a problem
Well worth it, I used Nathans stock stabiliser off his web site terminalbalistics.com - I hopefully have a few shots to send you, and I'll send you the instructions for Decreasing spring and honing the sear to stop the creep - all very good for accuraccy.
Final once I was OK with everything, was to softseal the underaction (protect it from rust) and then did a glue and screw with araldite on the action lugs (after afdding a release agent) and she came up well.
Yeah stabilising with the product from his website is in the plans for sure, then the trigger.
What would be the best solution for removing the burr? Running a reamer through or emery on a dowel? In case the gun shop doesnt play ball
I'd try the retailer or if close by whoever shortened and re- your barrel with a burr like that, even though you've altered it ... most shops have access to a person locally with a few skills on hand or nearby and I'm sure they'd get them to sort it given its not really related to the alteration and for goodwill.
In Nathans reloading book however he talks about sanding the mandrel on the neck sizing dies with sandpaper to get it to the correct level of clearances by a couple of thousands of an inch. It looks like your mark is in the last 10mm of the chamber (bolt end) so you have plenty of clearances away from the important end of the chamber. That said, have you got a brass cleaning pick it could be a burr of the swath from where they've re-cut the threads and its dropped down the barrel during cutting and then its got wedged in the chamber and jammed between your round and the chamber and stuck there. Go easy but how about seeing if a softer brass pick or kebab skewer can move it... I got a suppressor done once and was amazed by the amount of swath still left in the chamber and action when I got it back...
If it was me from a DIY perspective if none of these are do-able I'd PVA glue some 240 grit sandpaper to a dowel and given its at 12' o'clock by the look give it a polish out by putting it in battery drill. A gunsmith would probably just use a dremel on it should be a 5 min job if the burr is where it seems to be.. Know any handy buggers close by? I suggest sandpaper on a dowel as it would have a bit of give to it as well.
LThat looks for all the world like the start of case head seperationQuote:
Originally Posted by specweapon
And explains why your bolt was hard to open
Where did you get your brass from?
Is the headspace correct?
