Thread: RUN AWAY DEER

Last week i missed 3 deer between 150-200yds in one night,easy shots broad side.Have missed another a few weeks back,and other easy shot.Have shot 7 deer inbetween the missed deer.When iv missed deer,sometimes i see dust flying up from the missed shots.
So tonight i went out to the range,bit of nor west from left to right.Rifle had been checked over,gave the barrel a gental hoppys patch clean.Fired one shot as a fowling shot,about a inch high,then fired 3 more off to see if rifle shooting level,not bad 1/4 inch high.Then put my InFiRay CH50V2 clipon on,nice and firmly clamped on objective bell.Thermal screen very close to centre zero,no cross hair in thermal.Fired off 2 shots,dust flu up,wtf.Dialed up 1 moa,managed to get 3 shots on cardboard 19inch low and 6 inchs to the right(by blue dots),Now what could be the problem?,last year i shot 22 deer with this set up,but on a 18 inch barrel tika,this is a 22 inch barrel tikka.Is the weight of the thermal playing with the harmonics of rifle.Maybe clamping on the thermal affecting the day scope?
19 inchs below zero is a lot.

Couple of weeks ago I shot this with thermal on.

Suggestion: With the Thermal attached can you somehow clamp the rifle rigidly to a shooting bench with the crosshair centered on target when looking through the Thermal. Then, carefully, without moving the rifle, detach the Thermal and look through only the scope to see if the crosshair is off-centre at all ? What I would suspect, and could be wrong about, is that something in the relationship to scope and Thermal is not right. Kinda hard to imagine any detriment to rifle harmonics from what you describe. The rifle seems to be still capable of shooting a reasonable group, further suggesting the issue does not reside there.
I hate when these sorts of issues with rifles / sights arise. It drives me nuts.

Hi 30.06king,iv been thinking about that relationship between the clamping on day scope affecting the day scope retical.Maybe the forward weight on the day scope affecting it.Never had a problem last yr,same set up,just longer barrel this year.hmmm.
To be shooting low by nearlly 2 feet at a 100yds,the clip weight pulling the day scope down at the front=lifthing the back up.Im talking in micro measurement here.
Rail or scope ring micro loose at rear of day scope.il look into this.

So when you changed to the new rifle I assume you used the same scope and you had to adjust it to get it on zero? The clip on indexes off the outside of the scope bell. When you resighted the day scope for the new rifle you change the position of the reticle in reference to the bell. That being the case you will have to zero the clip on to the new reticle position. I know you didnt need to do this for the first rifle but as a few of us said in previous discussion, you just got very lucky.

Theres a buttom to move thermal zero (centre)up n down,left n rigth.Thermal screen centre of day scope.Only retical i see is day scope retical,thermal just acts as a monocular on front.

Originally Posted by Trout

thermal just acts as a monocular on front.

No it dosn't. Its not a see through device. It projects an image onto a screen and you have to align the screen with your day scope reticle. Its very clear in the instruction's. Well as clear as chinese translations can be. Its why your unit has different profiles for different rifles... G1 -G2- etc. So you can zero the clip for individual rifle/scope set ups.

The manual is here https://manuals.plus/inf-iray/clip-c...#axzz8QnWJNTco

Heres the relevant clause in the manual


Installing Clip CH50 on the daylight sight and repeat the calibration steps above.
Then aim at the target at 100 meters and shoot. Measure the horizontal distance and vertical distance between the bullet hitting point and the aiming point afterward.
In normal display mode, press and hold down M (5) button to enter the image calibration interface. Pressing the P (4) button or C (6) button briefly to move the position of the infrared image and long press to achieve a quick shift. Pressing M (5) button to switch the orientation of the X-axis (left-right) and Y-axis (up-down) while the moving distance is displayed synchronously above the icon. (as shown in figures 6-3)
When the calibration is done, long-press M (5) button to save and exit the calibration interface.


Read more: https://manuals.plus/inf-iray/clip-c...#ixzz8QnWqu8QT

Thanks for yr input sneeze,yr name is killing me.iv had bad hayfever the last week.lols
Il look into want you have said in detail.Cheers

Originally Posted by Trout

Thanks for yr input sneeze,yr name is killing me.iv had bad hayfever the last week.lols
Il look into want you have said in detail.Cheers

Its hay fever season all right. Drop me a PM if your still having problems. Iv worked through a few issues with the V2 clip , I might be of some use.
Iray put out a CH50W version a year ago which they called "ready to shoot" but it seems even that needs some tweaking.

Originally Posted by sneeze

So when you changed to the new rifle I assume you used the same scope and you had to adjust it to get it on zero? The clip on indexes off the outside of the scope bell. When you resighted the day scope for the new rifle you change the position of the reticle in reference to the bell. That being the case you will have to zero the clip on to the new reticle position. I know you didnt need to do this for the first rifle but as a few of us said in previous discussion, you just got very lucky.

Yup. This.

Thanks for yr input sneeze,yr name is killing me.iv had bad hayfever the last week.lols
I have the screen on G2 dead centre of day scope,when i turn unit off,the count down numbers are dead centre of day scope retical.Dont think i was on G2 last night and the unit was coming loose on scope after the 1st shot.Il sort this.I done a factory reset,i see what you mean above sneeze.Il sort it.cheers.
I only have one rifle,so once sorted i wont be changing settings.Just check it everytimei put thermal on scope.Il put all the Gs on centre.

Hi sneeze,when i quick press the menu,centre button.The brightness icon(sun) shows up dead centre of the day scope reitical.Am i on the right track for center screen to day scope centre?This is on G2.

Thermals have a reputation for dropping zero as temp changes. Ask a pest shooter…

It dosn't matter which profile you are on. They are for storing the settings for different individual rifle/scope set ups. It allows you to use settings you have previously set up by simply switching profiles. EG: I use G1 for my 223 and G2 for my 243ai. While they are both 100yd zeros in the day scope they need different screen positions to work correctly. I have worked through the zeroing process on the clip for each of these rifles and stored them in the said profiles. The change stored for my 223 is X axis +3.2--- Y axis -8 and my 243 is X axis + 4.8--- Y axis -6.4 . You need to choose one for your set up and dont change it unless you are swapping rifles.
Centering the screen is not that usefull as you don't know where your reticle is in relation to the out side objective bell. For example if in zeroing your day scope you had to adjust ,lets say, 8moa up and 3 moa left. That puts the reticle well off center in relation to the objective bell so a centered screen will not align with your day scope reticle. Its the relationship between the reticle and the screen that's important.. There is no shortcut here. You have to follow the instrucions, shoot and adjust then store to your chosen profile. There's another step regarding e zero but Just start with the lowest zoom in the clip and ignore that for now for now.

This is where the sight pic for the settings on G2 for my 243. Note how far off the center the reticle is .

Front mount systems both thermal and nv are well known for needing realigning every time they're fitted