Thread: RUN AWAY DEER

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Front mount systems both thermal and nv are well known for needing realigning every time they're fitted

The Russan attachments are pretty bomb proof and very repeatable. Mine has never shifted and it gets lots of work and a rough time.

The key to the whole thing with clip ons is to sight the clip on in with the particular scope (you are getting the thermal and the scope in perfect alignment). You can only do it accurately by firing shots and adjusting the X&Y coordinates. You only need to do it with the thermal once and then it doesn't matter what alteration you make to that particular scope zero.

Originally Posted by 300_BLK

Thermals have a reputation for dropping zero as temp changes. Ask a pest shooter…

Can’t say I’ve noticed thermals dropping zero with temp. changes. At least no different than a lot of conventional vari-power scopes changing zoom range. Used two different Pulsars on AR over 5 year period with no issues. Sighted in during day, warm obviously, using heated target. Used at night during lambing, often cold as fuck, no issues. HIKMICRO no issues that I can recall. Mind you, the price of most of it there shouldn’t be any problems. I’ve used thermal and no gear since before available to general public and they’ve improved greatly over the years. That said though, I mostly use HIKMICRO Alpex A50T nv these days. Cheaper to replace when you break it and they do break/have a limited lifetime.

Originally Posted by woods223

Can’t say I’ve noticed thermals dropping zero with temp. changes. At least no different than a lot of conventional vari-power scopes changing zoom range. Used two different Pulsars on AR over 5 year period with no issues. Sighted in during day, warm obviously, using heated target. Used at night during lambing, often cold as fuck, no issues. HIKMICRO no issues that I can recall. Mind you, the price of most of it there shouldn’t be any problems. I’ve used thermal and no gear since before available to general public and they’ve improved greatly over the years. That said though, I mostly use HIKMICRO Alpex A50T nv these days. Cheaper to replace when you break it and they do break/have a limited lifetime.

Are you going to get the new 4K Hikmicro?

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Front mount systems both thermal and nv are well known for needing realigning every time they're fitted

No thats a bit of a hangover from the past . Todays bayonet fittings , rusan , smartclip etc are very repeatable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykI3rj0qMI8

Originally Posted by sneeze

No thats a bit of a hangover from the past . Todays bayonet fittings , rusan , smartclip etc are very repeatable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykI3rj0qMI8

Im running a Rusan to V1 Hikmicro one piece mount and it is very repeatable once set

@Tahr. Not considering upgrading at this stage. I generally recon. the area and check ranges before night shooting and occasionally use green led torch and handheld rangefinder if unsure about range, animals mostly don’t get too alerted doing this. Happy enough for now with magnification and resolution of current setup. Still use my green led torch and day scope setup from time to time. Older stuff still works fine.

Well finally had calmish day,over cast and still a nice 30c down to 26c at 9pm.I went to the range to sort this clip on out.Started 5 pm at a 100mtrs,hmm this no good,down to 50mtrs.Glad i took 2 pkts of 147gr fmj 308 ammo.After fire a few shots to get on paper thru the clip on and shifting x y about after mearsureing each shot.What a job,pushig buttons to hard now n then.But i got some shots on a 2inch circle.now the 100 mtrs,well i must have walked 5 ks between shots.Managed to get on paper after a dozen shots or so.From start to 4hrs later,got a fmj with in 40mm of target.Let the rifle cool down for 30minuts,took suppresser off.Usig my hornady 165gr ssts,got a group about 40mm up,20mm right of point.Next group 10mm high and 10mmright of point.
In photo,blue aim point.green last fmj,red my last ssts shots.9pm got home bugger but please with my results.I give the 308 a wee wet patch and clean.Go back out to the range for a final wee group of hunting shots with a stone cold barrel.Big thanks to sneeze for his advice and me for listing which can be hard to do at my young age.

I've found the same thing with clipping a thermal on and off. Now I don't remove it from the rifle it is fine.
My thoughts is that the problem is in the QR

I find black plastic good in day time,thermal on black heat and day scope on green dot.Got good visual hold on black dot.But in the evening 8.30pm on,switch back to white heat on thermal.I could see the fine cross hairs on the corner of tinfoil and hold a nice steady fine aim on silver corrner. Once iv done a fine zero,il see it 1 inch high.Then il set G2 to zero and dial it up 3 inchs high.Make it very quick to move thermal from 1'' high to 3" high.
Previus rifle i had 3 different scopes with clipon on,never zeroed.Sometimes head n neck shoot deer no problem.Anyhow got it sorted,thanks guys for your advice,us old farts dont like changing our ways and thorts sometimes.Now for somedeer.
Oh question here.
Now the thermal on zero at a 100yds,to dial up 3 inchs.Do i dial up 3 inchs on thermal and day scope together.or just dial thermal up or just leave thermal on zero and dial day scope up 3 inchs.

Originally Posted by Tahr

The Russan attachments are pretty bomb proof and very repeatable. Mine has never shifted and it gets lots of work and a rough time.

The key to the whole thing with clip ons is to sight the clip on in with the particular scope (you are getting the thermal and the scope in perfect alignment). You can only do it accurately by firing shots and adjusting the X&Y coordinates. You only need to do it with the thermal once and then it doesn't matter what alteration you make to that particular scope zero.

Just spotted my answers above tahr,hope you are right.Once thermal zeroed leave alone and just dial day scope up where you want.Il try it soon.

Originally Posted by Trout

Just spotted my answers above tahr,hope you are right.Once thermal zeroed leave alone and just dial day scope up where you want.Il try it soon.

Yes. Don't touch the clip on once it's sighted in. Remember though that firstly your clip on must be shooting to the same point of impact as your scope does. Any variation between the 2 will always be there otherwise.

Mine nearly drove me crazy getting it right. But once it was Ive never touched it again.

I use these Rusan mounts and get 100% repeatability between mounting. https://www.huntthenight.com.au/search-results?q=rusan

Cheers,so when both are zeroed at a 100mtrs.Can I dial up day scope like normal say 3inchs,dont touch thermal.And get the 3inch dial up results.
I have a smaller Rusan adaptor,could swap for a 51mm adaptor.

Originally Posted by Trout

Cheers,so when both are zeroed at a 100mtrs.Can I dial up day scope like normal say 3inchs,dont touch thermal.And get the 3inch dial up results.
I have a smaller Rusan adaptor,could swap for a 51mm adaptor.

Yes thats right. Your dialling will work exactly as if there is no clip-on attached.

I think that its a very cool system but it can be frustrating to set up. Especially I think for us old farts.

With the hikmicro clipon, the easiest way I've found is using the reticle to measure the number of units between impact and your day scope crosshairs
Then make those changes on the image calibration setting.
They are pixle sizes I think not mil or moa

Originally Posted by Trout

Well finally had calmish day,over cast and still a nice 30c down to 26c at 9pm.I went to the range to sort this clip on out.Started 5 pm at a 100mtrs,hmm this no good,down to 50mtrs.Glad i took 2 pkts of 147gr fmj 308 ammo.After fire a few shots to get on paper thru the clip on and shifting x y about after mearsureing each shot.What a job,pushig buttons to hard now n then.But i got some shots on a 2inch circle.now the 100 mtrs,well i must have walked 5 ks between shots.Managed to get on paper after a dozen shots or so.From start to 4hrs later,got a fmj with in 40mm of target.Let the rifle cool down for 30minuts,took suppresser off.Usig my hornady 165gr ssts,got a group about 40mm up,20mm right of point.Next group 10mm high and 10mmright of point.
In photo,blue aim point.green last fmj,red my last ssts shots.9pm got home bugger but please with my results.I give the 308 a wee wet patch and clean.Go back out to the range for a final wee group of hunting shots with a stone cold barrel.Big thanks to sneeze for his advice and me for listing which can be hard to do at my young age.

Nice work. They can be frustrating but good once you come to grips with the system. The last step is to calibrate the E zoom if you haven't already done it. It prevents changes in poi when you shift to a different zoom in the clip. Its the function on the sub menu after the zeroing function. You can do it at the dinner table with the attachment fitted. Pull up the function and a white reticle will appear, just shift it with the x and y axis till it lines up with your day scope reticle then lock as per the zeroing function. If you don't use the electronic zoom and stay on the same stetting you used to sight in then its not an issue but Id do it any way. Note that the e zoom calibration will not lock to the profile so if you change profiles you need to redo it each time. it only takes 20-30 seconds so a bit annoying not a big deal.