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Go for it. Like you say to each his own. I have seen the effect of raw steel wool on patina. Plus I cannot grasp how raw steel wool "spreads" the blueing. Blueing is not a movable object.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhon
I guess you cannot go wrong if it's off the net. :)
Rethink that practice, it does not make sense. I admit I have to date used oil with steel wool just as you suggest, with exactly your thought that it is more gentle and prevents scratches. But if that were true it would imply that if you oil a drill bit it does not cut as well ... and most of us know that's not the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by GDMP
@Jhon gave a reasonable explanation above why not to use oil at the same time as the steel wool.
We can probably empirically test this.
Metal Properties Revealed in ‘Guide to Gun Metal’ « Daily Bulletin.
Might go someway to explaining the difference between rifle s/s and other stainless steels . I believe there are several hundred different 'stainless' alloys over and above the commonly used .
Even 316 has several versions in strength ratings .
Your average 316 stainless bolt for example is '70' grade and not recommended for use in areas such as mounting brake calipers as it can work harden and become brittle . But 316 '80' grade doesn't work harden the same and can be used in areas such as that .
Anyway , I hose down all my rifles after use , ss or blued , with Rem oil in the spray can and never had any rust issues . It claims to be Teflon based so I have been working on the assumption it leaves a Teflon coating and helps protect the metal . Seems to have worked ok for the last 25 yrs .
I give em a squirt , wipe to spread the rem oil and let air dry .
Clean , shiny with no oily residue .
Job done .
I have also had a couple of stainless Howas that rusted faster than any blued rifle I have ever owned.
Last one I had I gave it a really good coating and buffing with a soft cloth and "Flitz". Commonly used to protect knives and I believe also in museum restorations.
Really buffed it in and did 2-3 coats. Never had a problem after that. Just a wipe down with a rag with Ballistol after drying. Out of stock if really wet, and every time I wonder when I last did it. Occasionally rub some more Flitz on it, probably unessential though.
Although now I just Duracoat everything I can from new with the airbrush (never been a fan of the shiny barrels etc) and quick exterior wipe after trip, again with Ballistol
Springs are also made using bronze,copper,and monel tho not typically in firearms.
Stainless steel springs do exist as well.
Use Breakfree during the winter and Innox summer. Have always had a lot of time for Innox, had a 4 wheeler at the beach, used to hose down before heading home and when dry spray with Innox. Winter time seldom went near it. Never rusted in the 12 years it was there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Have come across this issue with my mini recently. I did actually drown it when I tipped over in a creek but it was showing surface rusting over the action, bolt, and barrel even before that from just being damp one day. Never struck this in my Remy stainless’s but had it occur with the T3X. Thought Is was prudent to pull it from the chassis just in case and sure enough, it was a mess. Had already cleaned it up with the 0000 steel wool and oil before finding this thread but I think I’ll break it down again, really have a good look at it and sort some form of protection for it.
Attachment 248103Attachment 248104
My stainless Howa was getting a few rust marks on it so I chatted to Murf about Cerakote colours and he recommended just blasting it and seeing how it goes.
Theory been the more matte finish holds oil better and I've found this true, even living next to and using this rifle near the sea.
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