Thread: Sako 243

So a while back I posted about a 17" barreled Sako 75 and if it was worth bothering with.

If yes, then I would re-thread it (had a one off thread) thus shortening to 17" and put a DPT on it and use it.

If no, wait for a re-barrel.

To complicate matters I have a 30mm scope (3-12x50 S&B Zenith) and either a Ruger (integral rings) or a Sako (integral rings) to chose from.

The forum said a resounding "just shoot the damn thing" thus I sent it in for another prune and had a DPT overbarrel modular can fitted, in 6.5 so I can change my mind.

Rings were fun. Someone put a wanted add up for 30mm Sako rings and turned down rusty blued rings with odd ball screws for $120. My kind of rings, so I bought them and like most nice forum gear, they were not that rusty and the screw heads were different but the threads were bang on. There's a look of wear and tear to this rifle I like. Everything is solidly second hand. Scope scratched (but not the lenses), rings rusty but sound, suppressor like new internally but came wrapped in camouflage tape, half new price, rifle NI bush rifle with beech leaves in the bedding.

These were sold as low rings and if the picture shows it, provide just a few mm of clearance for the 50mm objective, but enough. This makes the rifle and if cheap low rings did not come up I never would have tried. Sight alignment is perfect my eye. I never thought these rings would fit.

Super keen to shoot it now. Is a stumpy compact beast and while dense, is vastly lighter than my previous laminate 75 with #3 contour barrel and gunworks can.

Putting a rifle together as a mock up before a build is a great idea. I will be sticking to factory contour.


Medium sized cat for scale

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Next job, re-oil stock and Jiff the metalwork.

The stock looked like it had lost oil from carrying but in closer inspection the dry spots are where scratches were pot scrubbed out (bits of embedded wire) . My handling the rifle has brought the oil out and these are mostly gone and the grain is coming out. Thus it will get a serious clean and scrub and then a re-oil only.

Metalwork is just plain dirty. Looks like it was getting cleaned with motor oil. Jiff will sort that out.






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Good to see youve blooded it as well

Originally Posted by northdude

Good to see youve blooded it as well

Not enough gun. Have 338 Win Mag in the cupboard.

Can't move him or might lose a finger. He brings home hares routinely.

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I never would have thought of cleaning a rifle with Jiff im keen to see what It comes up like.

I got an old 75 that is in the same beat up state but synthetic. heavy compared to kimbers but damn that rifle pulls off shots that would have been misses with anything else I have

Originally Posted by Bill999

I never would have thought of cleaning a rifle with Jiff im keen to see what It comes up like.

I got an old 75 that is in the same beat up state but synthetic. heavy compared to kimbers but damn that rifle pulls off shots that would have been misses with anything else I have

Will have a go tonight and post the results

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Works as I remember. Use the jiff as a paste and don't let it get in anywhere with moving parts so little to no water should be used. Then elbow grease. If it was really rusty you get a little black spot but it's hard to see. Unless you look really hard it looks new.

Hard to use anything more abrasive without making odd looking patches, and it should be rubbed over hole panels and the length of the barrel so you don't get white spots.

It was all filthy. All brown and rust spotty with a yellow tinge like varnish to all the metalwork. Nice white clean stainless now.



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Nice set up. I run something broadly similar, an 85 .243 with a 20in barrel and a dpt can. It’s not particularly light with the chunky sako rings and bases combo, and a heavyish scope. But really nice to shoot with minimal recoil and muzzle jump, a great little deer slayer

Found a couple of packets of this in a small town to try and possibly shoot something prior to getting reloading gear set up.

Bet it shoots

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