Thread: Savage triggers setting off when bumping the blade

Sighting in a new savage tonight with a mate of mine we ran into a problem.
If he bumps the normal trigger bit before unlocking it with the accutrigger part of the trigger it clicks but doesn't fire and requires recocking to fire
Is there an adjustment that can be made to prevent this?
So it just doesn't do anything until the inner blade is pressed as this is a bit of a pain and definitely an issue that would pop up in the heat of the moment when hunting even if he trained himself not to

That is by design - the click is the failsafe mechanism locking the sear.

If he’s managing to pressure the main trigger blade without taking up the slack in the accutrigger blade, that honestly takes quite a bit of doing and indicates a very uneven trigger pull.

It’s built that way so you (or a twig, or your gear) can’t just bump the edge of the trigger blade to set it off, you need to take the pressure up square from the front, activating the accutrigger blade first. Basically a second safety.

hes got small hands so it's naturally where he touches first it's not a problem for me at all
Can it be adjusted so it won't do anything like my ruger American?

What cal.?

if all else fails replace the trigger with a Timney trigger I did on the first savage that I brought because that happened to me and I missed out on a nice sika stag

if all else fails replace the trigger with a Timney trigger I did on the first savage that I brought because that happened to me and I missed out on a nice sika stag

Timney was my suggestion too, the rifle is a 308 chassis stock with a houge ar15 grip, which shoots really well
I can't imagine this is by design because it really benefits no-one like this

Originally Posted by Bill999

I can't imagine this is by design because it really benefits no-one like this

They designed the trigger like that because it let them include a lighter, crisper trigger on factory rifles than would have been possible otherwise with the litigation culture in the states - the blade blocks the sear and prevents potential bump firing etc.

I've had quite a few Savages and never had an issue with it, best factory trigger I've used.

It sounds more like a technique/hand position issue to me even with smaller hands - unless there is something quite different with the fit of the chassis stock or the hogue grip is too fat for his hand? Mine have all been regular sporter shape stocks apart from a thumbhole 22.

I get that you can train around this issue, But it seems beyond stupid to have a trigger that decocks rather than just dosent move
If the safety is on and you pull the trigger you wont need to work the bolt to fire it, unless the trigger is adjusted incorrectly. so why have they designed it this way?

If need be I could remove the secondary blade inside the trigger but is this how all savages are?

its just a new gun going thru its first pack of bullets. Im trying to convince him to swap grips with me because mine is thinner/smaller and his is houge but that is for totally selfish reasons
the chassis is real nice, heavy compared to my DPT but that is the only complaint I have

I get lifting the bolt and dropping it again is no biggie but id be surprised if the guys at savage designed the trigger this way.

because I have had a ruger american with the same internal trigger design, Zero issues
I believe it is a copy of the savage

Ill sort it mate and let you know how I get there

Im appalled if this is the design of the trigger
@Huntfisheat I thought maybe I hadn't explained the problem correctly,
this is a major flaw if this is how it is ment to be

When the safety is on, the trigger is fully locked and you can’t trip this mechanism.

It’s not as if it takes just a tiny brush to lock up either, he must be actively pulling the side of the trigger to make it happen.

It works in a way that when the safety is off, you still have to consciously and deliberately pull square on the trigger, and can’t just knock it or bump it.

The problem is caused by insufficient sear engagement, easily adjustable by someone who knows how the system works. The Savage triggers need a bit of work and adjustment to get them really nice but they are as good as anything else when properly set up. Trigger work is not for amateurs.

Originally Posted by StrikerNZ

That is by design - the click is the failsafe mechanism locking the sear.

If he’s managing to pressure the main trigger blade without taking up the slack in the accutrigger blade, that honestly takes quite a bit of doing and indicates a very uneven trigger pull.

It’s built that way so you (or a twig, or your gear) can’t just bump the edge of the trigger blade to set it off, you need to take the pressure up square from the front, activating the accutrigger blade first. Basically a second safety.

Im I able to apply a little more tension thru adjustment for the main trigger blade? or a little more travel? a fraction of a mm with the pressure of a pixy fart sets it off, or is it non adjustable?

I imagine people usually lighten triggers when they buy savages but this is beyond light

Originally Posted by gundoc

The problem is caused by insufficient sear engagement, easily adjustable by someone who knows how the system works. The Savage triggers need a bit of work and adjustment to get them really nice but they are as good as anything else when properly set up. Trigger work is not for amateurs.

thanks Rod, thats what I was hoping