Thread: Scope adjustment issues

It's quite common for non dialed scopes to "stick"
Because they dont get the use.

Best practice for a set an forget type scope IMHO is

If you have to adjust out(anti clockwise one most scopes but not all) on a scope that never moves(not dialed) go a full turn out.....tapp the scope then wind back into whatever adjustment is required.
Scopes and especially the cheaper or just old can stick the adjustment while you twiddle dials and waste ammo.

If it's an older scope and not being dialed I suggest backing out both elevation and windage at least a turn if available and giving the rifle/scope a few gentle but solid taps in both up and down motions.
The adjustment is driven in by a thread but only returned by a spring.....which can stick.
So imo it is best to start out with an unknown by winding out adjustments and working your way back into zero as you have a positive adjustment driven by a thread rather than relying on a spring in the scope to adjust which may not do it for 3 shots then all of a sudden move to your set point....and by now you already changed the scope dial cos nothing was moving then all of a sudden it went too far.

Check the set of mounting rings.
If everything is well placed, with the corresponding tightening. Adjust your scope to 25 meters, no more, depending on the caliber, the second zero will be 170-180 meters.
Once calibrated at that distance, take the shots at 100 meters, to see how you group your rifle.

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

It's quite common for non dialed scopes to "stick"
Because they dont get the use.

Best practice for a set an forget type scope IMHO is

If you have to adjust out(anti clockwise one most scopes but not all) on a scope that never moves(not dialed) go a full turn out.....tapp the scope then wind back into whatever adjustment is required.
Scopes and especially the cheaper or just old can stick the adjustment while you twiddle dials and waste ammo.

If it's an older scope and not being dialed I suggest backing out both elevation and windage at least a turn if available and giving the rifle/scope a few gentle but solid taps in both up and down motions.
The adjustment is driven in by a thread but only returned by a spring.....which can stick.
So imo it is best to start out with an unknown by winding out adjustments and working your way back into zero as you have a positive adjustment driven by a thread rather than relying on a spring in the scope to adjust which may not do it for 3 shots then all of a sudden move to your set point....and by now you already changed the scope dial cos nothing was moving then all of a sudden it went too far.

When I first started shooting had an older way more knowledgable friend help me sighting in the 243.
He used a screw driver as a soft faced hammer on the scope.
Any adjustment was followed by a couple of taps with the handle around the turrets to help it settle.

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

It's quite common for non dialed scopes to "stick"
Because they dont get the use.

Best practice for a set an forget type scope IMHO is

If you have to adjust out(anti clockwise one most scopes but not all) on a scope that never moves(not dialed) go a full turn out.....tapp the scope then wind back into whatever adjustment is required.
Scopes and especially the cheaper or just old can stick the adjustment while you twiddle dials and waste ammo.

If it's an older scope and not being dialed I suggest backing out both elevation and windage at least a turn if available and giving the rifle/scope a few gentle but solid taps in both up and down motions.
The adjustment is driven in by a thread but only returned by a spring.....which can stick.
So imo it is best to start out with an unknown by winding out adjustments and working your way back into zero as you have a positive adjustment driven by a thread rather than relying on a spring in the scope to adjust which may not do it for 3 shots then all of a sudden move to your set point....and by now you already changed the scope dial cos nothing was moving then all of a sudden it went too far.

Dead right cam. Missed the sticking adjustment entirely.
And being the shot needs to move to the right this relies as you point out on the erector spring to push against the adjusting screw.

Had a guy shooting F Class with IIRC an older Leupold. Any time he made an adjustment he wound a minute beyond what he wanted then back to what he wanted and then hammered the tube with a screwdriver.