Scope mounting - What to do?

I have a Ruger M77 with the issued medium height Ruger integrated rings.
The problem I have with the 6-18x44mm Redfield scope, is that I should probably get the next higher ring to lift the scope higher (or a SunOptics Ruger Picatinny rail).
As it sits now I have to move the scope forward by 20mm to just clear the barrel from the objective lens (we're talking cigarette rolling paper thinness clearance). However, by moving the scope forward to clear the barrel I am extending the eye relief to 20mm too far, which results in me moving my neck/head forward uncomfortably.

So the two options available to me to be able to move the scope back to correct eye-relief are:
1 - Purchase either a higher Ruger ring or a SunOptics Ruger/Picatinny rail $100 (which would allow me to fit standard Weaver rings).
2 - Cut 25mm of wood off the butt and sand down the recoil pad to fit again (DIY).

What option sounds the most reasonable? And is 'Zig-Zag' rolling paper thinness enough clearance of scope/barrel?

Eye relief is very important get a new set of rings to match.

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Originally Posted by tikka

Eye relief is very important get a new set of rings to match.

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You would go rings instead of shortening the length of pull which is 35cm from trigger to recoil pad? (my other rifles LOP are from 34-33cm)

I have Weaver ruger rings they aren't good looking but better than Weaver to ruger adapters.

Also gunworks do a pic rail for the m77.

Personally I say get the rings as changing LOP causes other issues

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Originally Posted by Stocky

Also gunworks do a pic rail for the m77.

Personally I say get the rings as changing LOP causes other issues

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Hmmm, I was leaning towards shortening the LOP as the M77 does have a longer LOP than all my other rifles by about 1 inch (25mm)...but if there are issues. What other issues do you mean @Stocky ?

Gunworks M77 Picatinny rail is $230 (out of my price range) SunOptics rail only $89

Check your cheek weld to stock eg. shoulder your rifle normally with eyes shut.Open eyes, is the scope at right height that you're looking straight thru scope with out having to lift head of stock. If your eye/scope alignment is good with the standard rings then shortening the stock may be the option to take. Scope needs at least 1mm clearance. If you fit higher scope rings to achieve clearance then you may have to fit a cheek riser to maintain a good cheek weld.

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Originally Posted by woods223

Check your cheek weld to stock eg. shoulder your rifle normally with eyes shut.Open eyes, is the scope at right height that you're looking straight thru scope with out having to lift head of stock. If your eye/scope alignment is good with the standard rings then shortening the stock may be the option to take. Scope needs at least 1mm clearance. If you fit higher scope rings to achieve clearance then you may have to fit a cheek riser to maintain a good cheek weld.

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Yep with these medium rings the cheek weld is perfect. But if I go up to a higher ring or Ruger to Weaver Picatinny rail I'll have to fit a cheek riser.
Yeah there is just 1mm clearance between barrel and objective lens so that sounds ok.

Alright going off what you said @woods223 I'm going to lop off 20mm (2cm) of LOP from stock.
If anyone says I shouldn't then please post within the next 5 mins while I get the skill saw up and running.

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Originally Posted by Hermitage

Yep with these medium rings the cheek weld is perfect. But if I go up to a higher ring or Ruger to Weaver Picatinny rail I'll have to fit a cheek riser.
Yeah there is just 1mm clearance between barrel and objective lens so that sounds ok.

Alright going off what you said @woods223 I'm going to lop off 20mm (2cm) of LOP from stock.
If anyone says I shouldn't then please post within the next 5 mins while I get the skill saw up and running.

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Thats what I've done to a couple of rifles over the years.Slightly shorter LOP is better than longer when shooting offhand in my 44+ years experience. If you can't mount your rifle with your eyes shut then open them and be alighned with your sights then you've got work to do.

Dont alter the stock
If its an integrated ring then Im guessing theres no way to shim the mounts??
Id just buy the correct mounts

Well there's no going back now...as all done.
And the eye relief once the polyurethane I sealed the butt of the wood with dries.... and I refit the recoil pad, should be perfect by the looks of things. :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Bos

Dont alter the stock
If its an integrated ring then Im guessing theres no way to shim the mounts??
Id just buy the correct mounts

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Too late....but I'm happy with the outcome.

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Originally Posted by Hermitage

Hmmm, I was leaning towards shortening the LOP as the M77 does have a longer LOP than all my other rifles by about 1 inch (25mm)...but if there are issues. What other issues do you mean @Stocky ?

Gunworks M77 Picatinny rail is $230 (out of my price range) SunOptics rail only $89

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Issues with form but if its longer that's fine I didn't think my ruger had an overlong LOP but its a Zytel stock. Also for some reason I read that as cutting of 2.5 inchs not 25mms and inch isn't as significant if its already on the long side.

Have you got photos of the stock before and after from the same side? The grain on the photos you're posted suggest it's different sides of the same stock - I'm keen to see just how much you've lopped it...….

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Originally Posted by Nickoli

Have you got photos of the stock before and after from the same side? The grain on the photos you're posted suggest it's different sides of the same stock - I'm keen to see just how much you've lopped it...….

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I don't have another photo but I cut off exactly 1" or 25mm.

What I've worked out from cutting the stock is that the correct LOP can be measured as the distance between your nose and thumb when the rifle is shouldered. There should be a gap of about two finger widths of space (1 1/2 inchs) between your nose and thumb when aiming the rifle (if right-handed rest forend and use fingers on the left hand to measure).
If there is more space than that, the length of pull is too long. If there is less space, the length of pull is too short.
Originally the Ruger LOP was too long as there were 3 fingers or 2 1/2" (63mm) I could fit between my nose and thumb that was resting on the top of the grip.
Now that I cut off 1" (25mm) there is about the correct 1 1/2" (38mm) between nose and thumb.

There is a huge difference between the thickness of a zig zig and 1mm. You may find that there is contact between the scope and barrel under recoil.
You don’t set eye relief with finger widths.


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Originally Posted by MSL

There is a huge difference between the thickness of a zig zig and 1mm. You may find that there is contact between the scope and barrel under recoil.


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Well I'm hoping it will be ok as the Ruger M77 has a medium weight barrel on it (probably equal to a #4), so there's quite a lot of 'meat' under it.

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Originally Posted by Hermitage

I don't have another photo but I cut off exactly 1" or 25mm.

What I've worked out from cutting the stock is that the correct LOP can be measured as the distance between your nose and thumb when the rifle is shouldered. There should be a gap of about two finger widths of space (1 1/2 inchs) between your nose and thumb when aiming the rifle (if right-handed rest forend and use fingers on the left hand to measure).
If there is more space than that, the length of pull is too long. If there is less space, the length of pull is too short.
Originally the Ruger LOP was too long as there were 3 fingers or 2 1/2" (63mm) I could fit between my nose and thumb that was resting on the top of the grip.
Now that I cut off 1" (25mm) there is about the correct 1 1/2" (38mm) between nose and thumb.

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…..and you now have a custom rifle....

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Originally Posted by MSL

....You don’t set eye relief with finger widths.

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I didn't say I set eye-relief with finger-widths @MSL.
I said I set the correct Length of Pull (LOP), with finger widths (and secondary to that being corrected, the eye relief was corrected).

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Originally Posted by Hermitage

Well there's no going back now...as all done.
And the eye relief once the polyurethane I sealed the butt of the wood with dries.... and I refit the recoil pad, should be perfect by the looks of things. :thumbsup:

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thats NOT a recoil pad....its a bit of red rubber to rub your shoulder on..... fitting a decent recoil pad....and there are many around now for not a huge amount will give you back half what you have taken off....

Seems like a lot of work when a quick lick with the angle grinder would have done the trick.