Thread: Scope recommendations

If it was me I’d step cal up one size and get a fail scope 10x power to 14x and you will be good to go , I believe a lot of nz hunters are way over scoped


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Originally Posted by buzzman

If it was me I’d step cal up one size and get a dail scope 10x power to 14x and you will be good to go , I believe a lot of nz hunters are way over scoped


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Originally Posted by andyanimal31

Funny that you reckon 500m isn't extreme.
To get your shot placement in the clean kill zone you have to really be on your game as far as correct elevations and wind call.
I would doubt that there are many people on here are competent enough to hit a 150mm plate consistently at 500m even with only a slight wind.
I have seen alot of very self confident shooters come unstuck at ranges closer than that.
I feel the same about head shooting as unless your are on your game it's a no go.
Amazing how many people talk about how many deer they have head shot but never talk about shot of jaws and then wondering of into the scrub and die a long painful death.
I would like to think any hunter that had done this once would then refrain from this and ethically place their shots from then on.
I have learnt the hard way.
Just saying


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Read my post before this one you replied to as i basically said what you said.

as i said previous practice is key to shooting long-range, For me an my experience ive never wounded or lost and animal shooting longer ranges 300m+. When i can i go into the high country and practice
in the hills where i will be hunting as it helps get an understanding of the variables that will affect the shot, rainy and windy crappy days great way to pass the time and get something out of it. I always try
and close the distance as close as possible to minimize the impact the variables will have on the shot being taken. But as i have said previous practice is key to success, its all good having all the latest and
greatest money can buy but that doesn't put animals on the ground its only assists in doing so but if you dont know how to read the conditions from, lack of practice ends up in wounding and missing animals.

And i fully agree about headshots there's always a time and place where they are necessary and are the best bet for securing an animal but i dont as a rule take them anymore after taking the face off a red hind
knocked her on her ass but was wounded and required a follow up shot when i could have easily taken a neck or shoulder shot so i learned from that experience and changed the way i shoot animals.

If you are going to look at taking shots past the 300m mark then you also have to factor into your costings a good quality range finder. Look at the ballistic data and see what happens if your range estimate of 400m is 50/100m out. this error is very real when you are looking across broken ground and/or gullies. In my personal experience the range finder is a real eye opener as well as a major advantage past say 300m. I have tried both the old fashioned hold over and ballistic turrets, holdover is just not as precise, there is always the temptation to "give it a little more". Having said that if you go the ballistic turret route then you need the best quality you can possible afford in order to get repeatable adjustment. I recently switched to a Swarovski 3.5-18 with the ballistic turrets it gave me heart palpitations when I forked out the 2 grand. However the results are fantastic, 100% repeatable zero, those turrets can be used in low light without even looking at them. My 2 cents.

Originally Posted by buzzman

If it was me I’d step cal up one size and get a fail scope 10x power to 14x and you will be good to go , I believe a lot of nz hunters are way over scoped


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100% agree look what they did during ww2 with 2.5 on some and 6/8 power scopes

@zeropak makes a very good point

A large % of people suck when it comes to shooting further than 200/300m. You can multiply that by several factors when it comes to range estimation...

Doing a tall target test, as well as a return-to-zero square for ANY scope is well worth doing if you are going to be shooting further than simple hold-over ranges.

Originally Posted by ebf

@zeropak makes a very good point

A large % of people suck when it comes to shooting further than 200/300m. You can multiply that by several factors when it comes to range estimation...

Doing a tall target test, as well as a return-to-zero square for ANY scope is well worth doing if you are going to be shooting further than simple hold-over ranges.

Only one scope brand that you don't have to do a tall target test on eh EBF!

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Originally Posted by andyanimal31

Only one scope brand that you don't have to do a tall target test on eh EBF!

Haha. Bro, even the mythical NF scopes can me mounted skew... That one is more a test of the installer getting it level than the turrets being accurate

@Carbine we read your post alright and credit the sense in the bulk of it but wouldn't encourage new shooters to expect to shoot animals at 500m and not with a $1000 scope.

Originally Posted by Bagheera

@Carbine we read your post alright and credit the sense in the bulk of it but wouldn't encourage new shooters to expect to shoot animals at 500m and not with a $1000 scope.

Yeah i agree neither would i, point i was trying to get across is practice practice practice then when the opportunity presents itself you are prepared trying to encourage the guy to get into it and you dont need a 3000$ scope to learn something new.
Can see on youtube some good reviews of shooters mostly in the usa on optics doing tracking and dialing tests which demonstrate how well some of these 1000$ scope can dial repeatedly and accurately.

Originally Posted by Haydenp

I'm looking for a scope around the $1000 give or take.Looking at getting into dialing so exposed locking turrents or at least a zero stop would be the go and around that 3-15 magnification.Im current looking at
Vortex Viper hslr 3 4 -16x50
Burris signature 3-15 x44
Leupold vx3 4.5-14x40
Are these scopes worth the money or are they better brands out .Any advise on these scopes would be very much appreciated

If you read around, unfortunately, you just can't get a scope that dials very well under $1000. Accurate dialing is the most expensive part of any scope. There is a good number of scopes that have really good glass but can not dial accurately. So if you are a budget, It probably is cheaper to get a scope with accurate Christmas reticle and hold over rather than dial.

https://www.snipershide.com/precisio...-1059x1440.png

see this chart, even super expensive scopes do not always dial 100% accurate

Originally Posted by Ultimitsu

If you read around, unfortunately, you just can't get a scope that dials very well under $1000. Accurate dialing is the most expensive part of any scope. There is a good number of scopes that have really good glass but can not dial accurately. So if you are a budget, It probably is cheaper to get a scope with accurate Christmas reticle and hold over rather than dial.

Have a look at the Element Helix 6-24. Lots of tests on the internet. I haven't seen a bad word said about their dialling. You can land one in NZ for NZD650.00

1st & 2nd focal plane. Mils and MOA.

Originally Posted by Ultimitsu

https://www.snipershide.com/precisio...-1059x1440.png

see this chart, even super expensive scopes do not always dial 100% accurate

What is that chart even trying to measure? X axis just says #scopes??

Originally Posted by Tahr

Have a look at the Element Helix 6-24. Lots of tests on the internet. I haven't seen a bad word said about their dialling. You can land one in NZ for NZD650.00

1st & 2nd focal plane. Mils and MOA.

$800 locally if you cant wait, pretty impressive with a lifetime warranty