I need to put shims in the rings for a tactical scope I'm fitting because I can't wind the drop any further. I'm confused! It's shooting 0.6" high of the bull's eye. Do I put a shim in the front or rear ring?
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I need to put shims in the rings for a tactical scope I'm fitting because I can't wind the drop any further. I'm confused! It's shooting 0.6" high of the bull's eye. Do I put a shim in the front or rear ring?
Where is your scope adjusted to, for the .6 high impact.
Is it at full up adjustment ?
Full down adjustment ?
Centred for adjustment ?
Aah full adjustment up. So Any adjustment will make it shoot higher on the target
Shim the rear
Have you tried lapping the rings ?
Theres a forum Lapping Kit somewhere ..
I Shimmed a scope ring once on advice from someone on the the forum .... I used a sliver of coke can .... worked a treat ...
Still a bit confused. Is your elevation wound fully down and you are still high or something else?
If you want to raise your point of impact shim the rear to lower shim the front
Yeah I've tried everything. Same rings work fine with a different scope. this scope is a Leupold VXII 6-18 w tactical turrets. I've even sent it to Leupold for new mildot reticle and servicing so it should all be sweet. Shimming seems the only option left and I think it should work fine.
I've cut shims from a V can and aralditing them in but thought I'd still lap.Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi39
No it must be full adjustment down. The arrows on the turret are bloody confusing. Anti-clockwise as far as it will go which has brought the poi down until it can go no further but still .6" highQuote:
Originally Posted by johnino
Whatever you do, DON'T glue them in ... you dont need to .. they stay in just fine by themselves !!! If you glue them in you can get them out !!Quote:
Originally Posted by johnino
Shim the front then and yes don't glue the shim in - it wont go anywhereQuote:
Originally Posted by johnino
Tried swapping front ring to rear and rear to front? Maybe different hights.
Shldnt that be shim the back ?? If he cant "move the shot up" any more it means the horizontal reticle bar is fully down ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Shamus
That being the case, he needs to lift up the rear of the scope to alleviate the problem ...
I might be wrong , maybe I'm the one whos got it arse about ...
in any case, its now dinner time ...
Pretty sure I can't VC. I've shimmed up the front now cheers guys. I'll have sighting in on Friday hopefully. Fingers crossed.
I thought he was trying to bring the POI down and had bottomed out the elevation so therefore you would shim the frontQuote:
Originally Posted by kiwi39
Nah it's me who's confused everyone. I'm going to have to understand the direction on the turret otherwise hunting's gonna be disappointing to say the least.Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi39
get some Burris Signature Zee rings with inserts
is your scope 1 inch or 30mm tube ?
25mm. If this doesn't work I may need to. I wonder what thickness of shim can be fitted b4 farking the scope?
I just re-read your original post.
Sorry, I fucked up. @Shamus was right. Shim the front ring ... My bad ...
ok, i have some +/-10 and +/-5 inserts for you if you get the burris rings. used +/-20s on my FTR rifle and gained a LOT of dial. depends on how far the rings are apart, if I remember correctly if they are about 3.5 - 3.75 inches apart, you will gain the full amount.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnino
i've had no issues with them, they seem to hold the scope tight.
Still doesn't make sense, if the turret is wound all the way anti clockwise it is at max up adjustment, (clockwise left and down), therefore to bring it down just turn the turret clockwise? Or am I misunderstanding the explanation?
Cheers EBF. Currently got standard rings Leupold/Burris (not sure) definitely on Burris bases with windage screws on rear. Bases are 3.7" apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
Er problem solved................get rid of the V can shim and swap for a tui can shimQuote:
Originally Posted by johnino
Araldite is an epoxy that does not like heat and will let go when warmed up and then can be wiped up. On the other hand it is also not the best for use on a rifle if that is likely to make it warm, it will them ooze out. About 50C it starts to let go.Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi39
Yes, you shim the front mount. You work out how much you need to shim with a bit of trigonometry.
h = d x tangent(MOA/60)
Where:
Your calculator is set in degrees
h = the thickness of the shim you need
d = the distance between your scope mounts
MOA = the number of MOA you want to shift the point of impact
If you want the shim thickness in inchs then measure the distance between your scope mounts in inchs. Works for any units including mm.
Cheers Gillie. Good to have the formula. So can we work backwards?
h/d=tangent?
e.g. My shim is 0.00787", distance between rings is 3.69"
So 0.00787/3.69=0.00213279.
If that's right how does the answer relate to MOA?
So if you rearrange it you get something like:
h = 0.00787"
d = 3.69"
MOA = 60 x ArcTangent(h/d) = about 7.3MOA or about 7.5 inchs at 100 yards.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
They are a brilliant piece of kit in my opinion .
The only downside is that they don't make a Low mount , only Med and High .
All of my scopes except one have Burris Zee rings .
The other one uses old fashion Weaver rings ( the band type with screws on one side ) they are the lowest rings I could find to bring the scope right down on my Blaser 223 barrel . The cocking - safety just clears the scope by a couple of ciggee papers now . It's a low as you can get a scope on a R93 .
I only wish Burris would take note and produce a Low Zee mount .
When setting up a scope with the inserts I make sure the scope is centred in its adjustments and then adjusting the inserts Not the scope I bore sight it to as good as I can get it . Using this technique I've never had to adjust more than about 10 clicks maximum in any direction to be smack on at 200 .
I highly recommend the Burris rings with inserts .
Ken
Interesting development. I put two shims (0.1mm thick each) from the V can on the front and put scope back in place and screwed rings together. Farkin awful! The magnification was all but impossible to turn, meaning tube was distorted. Took it apart, removed one shim and stuck it back together. Better but not I'm still not comfortable. So the plan is now I'll araldite one shim on the rear and two on the front, once the glue's dry I'll run a reamer through to create the angle hopefully taking the pressure off the scope tube. If the araldite lets go after the scope's screwed down it doesn't matter. It's only needed to keep the shims in place during reaming and locking down. Main lesson learned: be so careful doing shite like this not to destroy a good scope.
Could you put the shims on the front and lap the rings?
Im so confused. Fuck.
Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk
yeah must be something wrong with scope im thinking.....
Yep. My theory is that shims on both and then lapping those means the rings can be re-used if ever required. Cheap-arse logic
Shouldn't be. Just come back from Leupold after servicing. If anything bases are retarded. They're two piece. Tried removing tonight and allen key stud hole virtually stripped. Weird size allen key. I'm inclined to leave the bases be, even if they're actually the problem. Could create a whole other problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by PerazziSC3
haha mate i would be getting rid of the bases and or rings and starting fresh if your confident in scope.
Something must be seriously wrong somewhere
Your right. I hate not being able to do it myself and I can't get the bases off. Maybe I should admit defeat and get a gunsmith to just do that. If I do that I've got a one piece base I could fit and if I needed to shim it could go between the base and receiver and make life so much easier. Damn you;)
you shouldnt really need to shim unless you have something out of the ordinary, like canted bases or the like..a
or one low and one medium ect ect
I would have check the rings first off, they may fit the rifle but might be the wrong rings . I had this issue with a gun nut who knew how to fit a scope and rings but never levelled the scope
At this stage I think you would be better starting from scratch as was already suggested. Get the old bases off and start from there. What rifle is this?