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What does everyone use or what's preferred sight in targets Do you use black or red. I Sometimes find it difficult to see where the shot went at 200 Mtrs. Have gongs but when you miss they are not much help
Just interested to see what every one else does. We have a good gully to shoot in and a good post mounted board to staple 12 A4 sheets to. Straight level shots out to 200 Mtrs
Cheers :thumbsup:
I use only red now, reckon it's much easier to see out to 200, but becomes hard to focus on over that, so back to black. Heavy black circle works reasonably well at longer ranges. Just my 2c :)
There is all these flash things on the net but I find a simple sheet I've made myself using inch squares covering an A4 sheet with a heavier simple long cross in the middle, in black allows me to remain at 100 when sighting and using the squares able to shift the scope without having to walk to the target each time .The cross is also good at 200 though I cannot usually see the squares as I've made them quite light.
Also I've always found being able to lay my cross hairs on a cross, not a corner of a box or try to center or quarter a small circle has been better for me and I've tried heaps of different ones.
Other peoples experiences may differ.:)
Agree with the cross. Works a treat.
I like these ones, I use number 1, it's a bit hard on printer ink but is very clear and you can easily see your adjustments.
I hate shooting at circles.
That said I only shoot paper when sighting in:)
http://www.targetz.com/targets01.htm
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Draw a cross on a old beer box with a vivid
eh, save the printer ink.
I use a4 printer paper and went to stationery shop and bought some 20mm black stick on dots and 12mm white dots. black for bulls eye and white to patch them up if needed. that's for 1-200m, 300 I use a 100mm bullseye, but on the rifle I use to shoot that distance magnification is a plenty
I tend to use a orange patch (12mm) stuck onto a suitable sized bit of paper.
Or just draw a cross with a vivid
Flick us ya email bro i'll send ya @kiwi39's one he sent me. 6 targets on one page inch grids rady ra
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by redbang
I just use red dots and stick them on paper. Quick and cheap.
I prefer the grid targets for 100m, helps me with scope alignment horizontal and vertical. But then just a general bullseye for 200m, red or black.
Cost wise they're pretty cheap to buy, considering how much money has been sunk into rifle, scope, gear, safe, ammunition, reloader, earmuffs, clothing, petrol - shit the list goes on :D
I made up a series of these with the same 1" grid.
The one below is what I consider for a hunting rifle at 100yds with a relatively low power scope. I normally use one with six smaller diamonds on it for varmint rifles but have a large single diamond one for 200yds. The grid takes away the guesswork as to how much you need to correct.
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps1d6c9797.jpg
The advantage of the hollow open diamond is that you can see the bullet holes easily and the reticle centres very well on the aiming mark.
PM your email addr if you want me to send you these as Word files
If I want to zero a given height above the dot at 100m I just measure up that distance from the dot an put a cross with a marker pen.
I use the back of old calender pages. Larger than A4 ones and glossy so last better than ordinary A4 photo copy paper. Or glossy posters.
I put 1 1" red dot in the center and 1 in each of the 4 quarters so I get 5 targets all up. Patch up holes with white dots and a red marker as required.
When 1.8" (whatever the fuk that works out to in metric) high at 100m then I know it is bang on at 200m for my 308.
Given my longest ever shot was 137m I don't think I will ever shoot past 200m.
Remember to let your barrel cool between shots as most likely your first shot at an animal will be with a cold barrel
Do you check it at 200? I used to think it was that easy too :DQuote:
Originally Posted by sako75
I m just trying to be ultra confident of every shot at 100 inside a 50 mm box or better with 308. and .223 at 50 100 200 mtrs
with no fuss.
I got the Sako 308 shooting consecutive bulls in 1 inch circle by starting at 50 adjusting them moving to 1 Hundred.
6 out of 6 shots at 50 x 60 mm gongs with out to much trouble from 100. All dead centre as well so final 12 out of 12 well inside the 50mm
gameplan. I think its needs trigger jigging with a little more will measure pull weight.
Got the .223 to 5 shots in a 2 inch box (2 bulls ) pretty easily at 100 but wicked wind came through before finishing off.
Moved to 200 mtrs and found trouble seeing the hits as my target's had too much black in them. Will sort through all the info here
now and possibly go again this weekend. .223 seems to go good .
I think with better targets I should get to where I can hand the guns to anyone and they ll do ok with them.
Meantime plenty of gun time ..
This is on factory ammo for all of them. I will reload for them possibly .
Thats why I prefer a Red (or Orange) dot on a white target and patch holes with white dots.
Don't think I have the confidence to go for a long shot like that or for an eye shot (might hit the ear tag :wtfsmilie: ) so go for the boiler room every time. Lose a bit of meat but never missed. Besides nothing beats the up close and personal experience :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibo
Happy if you wind the trigger adjustment screw out until it hits the cap screw that holds the trigger assembly in you should end up with a nice let off, lighter than that is probably for a gunsmith.
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Ok do you need to loctite or anything? Or is there a locknut @vietnamcam
I ve had it apart so know which one to loosen
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...3861c69e89.jpg
I just stick one of these on a page quick n simple
No, there is a mild Loctite on it already. You shouldn't need to heat it but obviously if it feels like you are going to break or strip it give it a quick blast with a propane torch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy
Wind it out till it hits the mounting screw,it cant come loose and wouldn't anyway with the factory Loctite on it even if broken.
You should end up with a nice "as light as you would want it on a hunting rifle" trigger with no creep and minimal over travel that is safe.
I use these. http://accurateshooter.net/targets/6mmbrvert.pdf
Nice and visable and handy for working reloads too. The red is much easier to see and the lack of solid colour makes it easier to spot the holes. Seeing the bullet holes in solid black is a nightmare, even through my spotting scope.
I stick 3-6 red 24mm ones on an A4 sheet. Easy to spot holes and you can get a good gauge of group size and distance by using the dot size.Quote:
Originally Posted by geezejonesy
I use now use the stick on squares from Reloaders for my .308.
Attachment 32030
