22ARC, 6ARC or 6.5 Grendel for ultralight stuff (i.e. 2.5 kg)
otherwise 6.5 creedmore, or maybe 243 (6cm).
OR:
if you reload, a reduced load in whatever calibre you already have at hand?
22ARC, 6ARC or 6.5 Grendel for ultralight stuff (i.e. 2.5 kg)
otherwise 6.5 creedmore, or maybe 243 (6cm).
OR:
if you reload, a reduced load in whatever calibre you already have at hand?
With regards to muzzle flip I have found that running a heavier suppressor than is currently fashionable really helps. Either full stainless or a dpt with a few stainless baffles to bring the weight up. Yes it makes the rifle muzzle heavy (which drives some people mad but I love it for off hand shooting). Yes it also adds weight to your lightweight setup but it will still be lighter than most rifles and have much less muzzle flip than it had.
My mates Kimber Mountain Ascent in 308 with the factory muzzle break is a pussycat to shoot. And he retains his target site picture after the shot.
Has less recoil & muzzle jump than my Montana 260.
Ive been thinking and dreaming recently about something along these lines. If I had some play money I would build.
Calibre 25 Creedmore, Id buy a new Howa superlite and replace the barrel with a 20-21 inch and suitable for the newer heavy projectiles and the 103gr hammer hunter etc. The stock looks straight and high enough for good recoil management. Supressor on front will help too. Though that's not really where my concern lies. Im more building a rifle because I do a hell of a lot more carrying and walking than I do shot firing nowadays. I'll tolerate not seeing the hit.
Unsophisticated... AF!
Now there are some interesting thoughts, my "classic" riles are not suppressed but I wouldn't think of leaving a suppressor off a modern superhighway. The suggestion of supressor + brake is very interesting, not something I've considered before.
If you are trying to reduce overall rifle weight by as much as you are able, then consider break open or falling block single shots. Bolt actions do tend to weigh a bit more as does the mag well (and the 3-5 extra rounds...) But going really light (getting well under 3kg) then you may want to reconsider the longer 500m range - If you drop to a 300m range then you can include lighter calibres like the ones based on the x39 case or similar. You can also reduce the size and weight of the scope as well.
Recoil when shooting a 308 that weighs in at 3kg is very close to shooting a 300win mag out of a normal 4kg gun........
Another point to consider is that when looking at carry weight, it iis easier to drop a kg or two from your pack rather than the rifle.. it all comes down to what you need to take versus what you want to carry....
Intelligence has its limits, but it appears that Stupidity knows no bounds......
Have a look at 6arc
Much as I'd like a K95 ( and I do have the poor man's version, in the form of a Thompson Centre Contender, plus other single shots) for a maximum use rifle I'm still a bolt action repeater guy . . . and yes pack weight, but even before that we won't discuss losing it from one's waistline, my wife's new years "target " for me to lose is eye watering!
The Church of
John Browning
of the Later-Day Shooter
I put one of DPT new screw on brake thing onto my DPT surpressor on my creedmore not to reduce recoil but muzzle jump it does a great job, while still reducing noise.
So I'm sure it will do wonders on a heavier caliber light weight rifle.
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Kimber with 18" bbl in 308 shooting 165s and can see my shots hit with a optima 45 suppressor. They're bloody brilliant
That's what I thought, the only issue I see with a 257 calibre is the somewhat narrow projectile range especially of the high BC type , I had a Mauser Kurz in 250-3000 with a modern twist rate and it was great but @nor-west got down on it
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