Suppressor Q&A

Hi folks,
been reading up on suppressors a fair bit, have a few outstanding questions. Since it's a different train of thought I figured I would start a new thread rather than add to the old one, which was very informative (https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....forward-54768/ )

I'm looking for a hunting suppressor on a 7mm-08 T3, and possibly a suppressor on a heavy barrel 308. Not fixated on anything in particular, just looking to gather more info on suppressors as I'm totally new to them. Probably muzzle forward type, lightweight, reliable. Mostly focused on sound reduction. Don't care a ton about overall length, hence muzzle forward.

DPT seems to come up time and again as the best overall in terms of design, service life, quality, and general preference. Supporting the forum doesn't hurt either ;)

1) Are there more "common" threadings for .284 and .308 cal barrels? Obviously you can thread to any size that wall thickness will allow, but I see people mention that certain threads are more or less common, so may as well get a suppressor in a more common threading, just need to know what those are.

2) Sweet spot for number of baffles on a DPT muzzle forward brake for 7mm08 and 308 that's getting a complete burn before the muzzle?

3) Any significant reason to not get the stainless blast baffle? Assuming the stainless increases first baffle life at the cost of weight/cash? Aluminium baffle=$45, 25 grams; Stainless baffle=$90, 65 grams

4) Is there a significant loss in noise reduction using a .308 baffle setup on a .284 bore rifle? If the difference is negligible then may as well just get a .308 and throw it on the 7mm-08 when using it, but if there's a big increase in noise, then I guess I'd be buying two.

5) Strong competitors to the DPT suppressor? Pros and cons to them?

I have never been a fan of suppressors, the gun makers spend a fortune on experts to get the barrel length right and then send the rifle to NZ where a different expert chops a length off it and adds a suppressor to make it longer than what it was originally...of course if I was in the business of chopping barrels and/or making suppressors I would hate comments made by people like me.

Use the 308 on the 7mm, virtually no difference in noise reduction
The blast baffle makes sense, that said my DPT predated them, probably had 120-150 rounds through it, minimal erosion.
Sweet spot on baffles ? What barrel length, factory or hand loads ?
DPT List the ‘common’ thread sizes on his website.

DPT are very good light weight suppessors, I have quite a few of them. My primary use is hunting, hence want light weight. If you want max noise reduction then a heavier suppressor will be more effective than DPT, definitely add the ss baffle and for more noise reduction add more baffles. There is a review of lots of different suppressors in Rod&Rifle a year or two back. I’ve attached a photo , not the best, of how they stack up. Last column is noise reduction in dB, remember it’s a log scale. Many of the suppressors run low to mid 20 dB reduction, some of the heavier ones score >30dB. Some of the makes rate less than 20.
If you’re after a can style then I would recommend you look at the ASE 5. Very short wee can, on the heavy side but good noise reduction.(25dB).
Attachment 126599
Get a 30cal and it will work for both 308 and 7mm08.
Thread - the idea is to remove as little meat from the muzzle as you can, that way you lessen the risk of compromising the crown.
Given you have a light weight shorter bbl on the Tikka and a heavier profile of the 308 you are going to be restricted on thread options based on the Tikka bbl and have to use that thread on the 308. And probably need two different ferrules for the different bbl profiles. Either that or get 2 suppressors.

I used my .30 cal suppressor on my ar15 all the time
Sniff.

Sorry to Hijack this thread.

I've got a Howa mini 7.62x39 that I'm looking at getting suppressed.
It's wearing a Weaver K4 4x38 at the moment.
I have 3 DPT suppressors that all have excellent noise suppression, lightweight, and nimble handling. The only minor issue is the diameter is rather large at 43mm. When the scope is set to say 3x, the suppressor is visible through the scope. Totally functional but just a little imperfection.

The Weaver K4 seems to have a very wide field of view, often comparable to my other variable power scopes at 3x. I'm worried it might face the same problem if I chucked a DPT on it.

Does anyone know any brand of suppressors with smaller diameters?

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DavidGunn

I have never been a fan of suppressors, the gun makers spend a fortune on experts to get the barrel length right and then send the rifle to NZ where a different expert chops a length off it and adds a suppressor to make it longer than what it was originally...of course if I was in the business of chopping barrels and/or making suppressors I would hate comments made by people like me.

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Well (other than magnum calibres) howa rifles tend to be 20", tikka and browning 22" and remington 700 24". 223, 308, 270, all the same length from the same manufacturer, so they either all hired different experts, or barrel length is based on arbitrary factors, like balance, so a howa with a heavier stock might balance like a tikka with a lighter stock.

If there was a perfect barrel length for any calibre, then rifle manufacturers would agree. But they don't. Because there isn't.

If you want a 16" barrel 308 tikka with a can for pig and deer hunting, then go for it, the idea of not shortening a barrel because some Finish engineer who has never set foot in the NZ bush has decided that 22" is what God intended is silly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Synthetic

Sorry to Hijack this thread.

I've got a Howa mini 7.62x39 that I'm looking at getting suppressed.
It's wearing a Weaver K4 4x38 at the moment.
I have 3 DPT suppressors that all have excellent noise suppression, lightweight, and nimble handling. The only minor issue is the diameter is rather large at 43mm. When the scope is set to say 3x, the suppressor is visible through the scope. Totally functional but just a little imperfection.

The Weaver K4 seems to have a very wide field of view, often comparable to my other variable power scopes at 3x. I'm worried it might face the same problem if I chucked a DPT on it.

Does anyone know any brand of suppressors with smaller diameters?

Thanks

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Gunworks does a longer and slightly narrower one. At 35mm diameter. I use one and have found it very good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by canross

Hi folks,
been reading up on suppressors a fair bit, have a few outstanding questions. Since it's a different train of thought I figured I would start a new thread rather than add to the old one, which was very informative (https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....forward-54768/ )

I'm looking for a hunting suppressor on a 7mm-08 T3, and possibly a suppressor on a heavy barrel 308. Not fixated on anything in particular, just looking to gather more info on suppressors as I'm totally new to them. Probably muzzle forward type, lightweight, reliable. Mostly focused on sound reduction. Don't care a ton about overall length, hence muzzle forward.

DPT seems to come up time and again as the best overall in terms of design, service life, quality, and general preference. Supporting the forum doesn't hurt either ;)

1) Are there more "common" threadings for .284 and .308 cal barrels? Obviously you can thread to any size that wall thickness will allow, but I see people mention that certain threads are more or less common, so may as well get a suppressor in a more common threading, just need to know what those are.

2) Sweet spot for number of baffles on a DPT muzzle forward brake for 7mm08 and 308 that's getting a complete burn before the muzzle?

3) Any significant reason to not get the stainless blast baffle? Assuming the stainless increases first baffle life at the cost of weight/cash? Aluminium baffle=$45, 25 grams; Stainless baffle=$90, 65 grams

4) Is there a significant loss in noise reduction using a .308 baffle setup on a .284 bore rifle? If the difference is negligible then may as well just get a .308 and throw it on the 7mm-08 when using it, but if there's a big increase in noise, then I guess I'd be buying two.

5) Strong competitors to the DPT suppressor? Pros and cons to them?

---

With the thread choice- There are a couple factors that come into play. The inside diameter of the thread has to be large enough to leave some "meat" between the bore and the bottom(deepest) part of the thread cut. But the outside diameter has to be deep enough to have a shoulder for the suppressor to thread up against. For 308 most of mine have been 9/16 as the smith felt that 1/2 was a little closer to the bore than he was comfortable with. With a bull barrel there is plenty of choice but for a pencil barrel not so much.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tommygun

If you want a 16" barrel 308 tikka with a can for pig and deer hunting, then go for it, the idea of not shortening a barrel because some Finish engineer who has never set foot in the NZ bush has decided that 22" is what God intended is silly.

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Tikka do (or did) both 20" and 24" models of the CTR in 260.

As you said, there is no perfect barrel length for a given cartridge.

Here’s a few articles from over seas might help or just muddy the waters even more
https://www.shootinguk.co.uk/guns/so...derators-86396
https://www.gunmart.net/shooting-acc...ent/moderators
Also from the deerstalking forum in the uk
https://www.gunmart.net/shooting-acc...ent/moderators
https://www.thestalkingdirectory.co....erator.160210/
From the varmints community
Best Moderator ? - Suppressors / Moderators, Bipods, Anything else - UKV - The Place for Precision Rifle Enthusiasts

https://www.sporting-rifle.com/featu...derator-mania/

And that should keep you out of trouble for awhile @canross

The dpt over barrel is great, Iv had both muzzle forward and over barrel and would reccomended the over barrel
I do wish there was a smaller barrel diameter cavity when I am screwing it onto my thin barrelled Kimber's
Just for the extra volume
Also awesome to be able to add baffles on subsonic guns for extra suppression
My dpt for a 44/77 ruger has something like 6 extras, some extras I bought and some I borrow off my 45cal dpt
I have an Oceania defence alpine hunter on the way in 30cal that I plan to start using on everything 30 cal and under

Iv gathered a lot of 1/2-20 threaded guns and suppressors apparently it isn't the best for some reason
It depends on the barrel thickness
30cal will work great on a 284. i share suppressor between my 280 and 308.
I don't bother with the stainless baffle as they are heavy and I'd rather two standard ones for the money.
I'd just get the standard dpt and add baffles at a later stage if you want quieter
I only tend to add baffles for subsonics the differences in supers isn't so noticeable.

Fantastic input - lots of stuff I wouldn't have thought of and haven't seen written elsewhere.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DavidGunn

I have never been a fan of suppressors, the gun makers spend a fortune on experts to get the barrel length right and then send the rifle to NZ where a different expert chops a length off it and adds a suppressor to make it longer than what it was originally...of course if I was in the business of chopping barrels and/or making suppressors I would hate comments made by people like me.

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Fair enough - I don't find long firearms overly problematic to use, so can run a suppressor on a full length barrel - still comes out shorter than a lot of the guns I enjoy shooting :P I'm really interested in the sound reduction aspect, so while it'll still be loud, I'm hoping it will take the edge off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frogfeatures

Use the 308 on the 7mm, virtually no difference in noise reduction
The blast baffle makes sense, that said my DPT predated them, probably had 120-150 rounds through it, minimal erosion.
Sweet spot on baffles ? What barrel length, factory or hand loads ?
DPT List the ‘common’ thread sizes on his website.

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Excellent - great to hear that it's commonly done.

Pretty much exclusively handloads. Usually I try to balance grouping with complete burn by the muzzle for any particular rifle. I guess in retrospect the question didn't have enough information to be properly answerable, was thinking maybe people were in the habit of consistently removing or adding baffles as a matter of course.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chainsaw

DPT are very good light weight suppessors, I have quite a few of them. My primary use is hunting, hence want light weight. If you want max noise reduction then a heavier suppressor will be more effective than DPT, definitely add the ss baffle and for more noise reduction add more baffles. There is a review of lots of different suppressors in Rod&Rifle a year or two back. I’ve attached a photo , not the best, of how they stack up. Last column is noise reduction in dB, remember it’s a log scale. Many of the suppressors run low to mid 20 dB reduction, some of the heavier ones score >30dB. Some of the makes rate less than 20.
If you’re after a can style then I would recommend you look at the ASE 5. Very short wee can, on the heavy side but good noise reduction.(25dB).
[SNIP ATTACH]126599[/ATTACH]
Get a 30cal and it will work for both 308 and 7mm08.
Thread - the idea is to remove as little meat from the muzzle as you can, that way you lessen the risk of compromising the crown.
Given you have a light weight shorter bbl on the Tikka and a heavier profile of the 308 you are going to be restricted on thread options based on the Tikka bbl and have to use that thread on the 308. And probably need two different ferrules for the different bbl profiles. Either that or get 2 suppressors.

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Thank you for taking a pic of that table - very good to see them side by side.
Fair enough on the thread range between the two rifles. I wonder if a thread adapter would suit - thread the suppressor to the larger barrel, then make a thread adapter for the smaller gun with an inside shoulder and smooth inner section to keep the adapter square on the muzzle, and a square shoulder on the back of the adapter for the suppressor. Given that it would be a 308 adapter there would be some additional room for a .284 bullet to pass through the suppressor even if it wasn't totally square, but the adapter should largely solve that. Could even get really fancy and built a barrel tuner into it :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by marky123

I used my .30 cal suppressor on my ar15 all the time
Sniff.

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Hopefully in time these laws can be turned around and we can again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by timattalon

With the thread choice- There are a couple factors that come into play. The inside diameter of the thread has to be large enough to leave some "meat" between the bore and the bottom(deepest) part of the thread cut. But the outside diameter has to be deep enough to have a shoulder for the suppressor to thread up against. For 308 most of mine have been 9/16 as the smith felt that 1/2 was a little closer to the bore than he was comfortable with. With a bull barrel there is plenty of choice but for a pencil barrel not so much.

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Good to know - with the above, I think I may have to look into whether I can do up a centered and concentric thread adapter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sideshow

Here’s a few articles from over seas might help or just muddy the waters even more
https://www.shootinguk.co.uk/guns/so...derators-86396
https://www.gunmart.net/shooting-acc...ent/moderators
Also from the deerstalking forum in the uk
https://www.gunmart.net/shooting-acc...ent/moderators
https://www.thestalkingdirectory.co....erator.160210/
From the varmints community
Best Moderator ? - Suppressors / Moderators, Bipods, Anything else - UKV - The Place for Precision Rifle Enthusiasts

https://www.sporting-rifle.com/featu...derator-mania/

And that should keep you out of trouble for awhile @canross

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Excellent - haven't gotten into UK forums much so hadn't seen those, thank you for the links. Looks like something in the posting process broke the links, but searching the sites seems to be pulling up the right pages.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bill999

The dpt over barrel is great, Iv had both muzzle forward and over barrel and would reccomended the over barrel
I do wish there was a smaller barrel diameter cavity when I am screwing it onto my thin barrelled Kimber's
Just for the extra volume
Also awesome to be able to add baffles on subsonic guns for extra suppression
My dpt for a 44/77 ruger has something like 6 extras, some extras I bought and some I borrow off my 45cal dpt
I have an Oceania defence alpine hunter on the way in 30cal that I plan to start using on everything 30 cal and under

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In the other thread there was the comment stating that every inch of muzzle forward suppressor is equal to 5 inches of overbarrel - do you find there to be a considerable difference in sound between equivalent internal volume suppressors muzzle forward vs overbarrel? Alternatively, is it an aspect of overall length/balance/handling that comes from the overbarrel suppressors?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bill999

Iv gathered a lot of 1/2-20 threaded guns and suppressors apparently it isn't the best for some reason
It depends on the barrel thickness
30cal will work great on a 284. i share suppressor between my 280 and 308.
I don't bother with the stainless baffle as they are heavy and I'd rather two standard ones for the money.
I'd just get the standard dpt and add baffles at a later stage if you want quieter
I only tend to add baffles for subsonics the differences in supers isn't so noticeable.

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Very good points. I hadn't really thought about the fact that you can add additional baffles at lower weight given the same cost, which is very valid. Also interesting that you notice the additional baffles on subsonics but not supersonics. I guess that's an effect of the supersonic crack from the bullet rather than direct muzzle blast.


All fantastic info, learning a ton from these threads and hopefully it helps some other people out too.

if you look at that table of suppresors the one with the greatest sound reduction was the Hardy over barrel, about 6" forward and 6" over the barrel.
I run one on a 243 and 223 both with 14x1 thread. Just change the rear bush for the different barrel diameters
Also have a gen 5 and gen 6 on lever actions 243 and 358. Again both 14x1 which could be a trap. You need a bit of a shoulder for them to do up onto.
These are only 80mm forward and 120mm over barrel only 290 gr. The 44.5mm dia does fill up the scope on the bottom end 1-4x20.
Hardy and DPT come to a similar result with very different designs. Hardy I believe is a mono core, not cleaned, just a shot of wd40 from time to time.
DPT has options to add more baffles and a S/S one for high heat applications.
Z

I have a Gunworks suppressor for each of my centrefires. They do not do muzzle forward. Muzzle forward has the advantage of leaving your barrel exposed for cooling. The over barrel brings weigh back from the sharp end, so better for balance, and with the collar on the barrel gives more resistance to torque if you take a knock.

Go with your gut and buy the dpt. Good suppressors at a fair price with excellent customer service.

Ask dpt or your Smith about the best thread for your 2 barrel diameters, I would guess 14x1 will be the go. You can get 5/8x24 on a tikka barrel but only cut down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ZQLewis

if you look at that table of suppresors the one with the greatest sound reduction was the Hardy over barrel, about 6" forward and 6" over the barrel.
I run one on a 243 and 223 both with 14x1 thread. Just change the rear bush for the different barrel diameters
Also have a gen 5 and gen 6 on lever actions 243 and 358. Again both 14x1 which could be a trap. You need a bit of a shoulder for them to do up onto.
These are only 80mm forward and 120mm over barrel only 290 gr. The 44.5mm dia does fill up the scope on the bottom end 1-4x20.
Hardy and DPT come to a similar result with very different designs. Hardy I believe is a mono core, not cleaned, just a shot of wd40 from time to time.
DPT has options to add more baffles and a S/S one for high heat applications.
Z

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Right on - thank you for the input - seems like you can't really go wrong with both DPT and Hardy. My gut feeling is that if the first baffle does a really good job of redirecting gas flow the expansion chamber back over the barrel is useful, so I wonder if that's what's happening there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gadgetman

I have a Gunworks suppressor for each of my centrefires. They do not do muzzle forward. Muzzle forward has the advantage of leaving your barrel exposed for cooling. The over barrel brings weigh back from the sharp end, so better for balance, and with the collar on the barrel gives more resistance to torque if you take a knock.

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Good points, thank you!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nick-D

Go with your gut and buy the dpt. Good suppressors at a fair price with excellent customer service.

Ask dpt or your Smith about the best thread for your 2 barrel diameters, I would guess 14x1 will be the go. You can get 5/8x24 on a tikka barrel but only cut down.

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Right on - thanks!

While we are chating suppressors has anybody ever tested using a .30cal on say 7mm is there much if any real world difference in sound reduction?

Also is there a worthwhile gain noise reduction to bother increasing the length with hardy stealth vs regular can?

I Have recently jumped on the suppressor train after 20 years and have been incorrectly supplied a .30 for a 6.8 and 7mm witch shop is happy to swap and was wondering weather it is really worth swapping and if my ocd gets me weather I should swap it for the bigger/quieter stealth model?

Thoughts appreciated have been holding of using it so I can return if needed

I used a 30 cal suppressor on one of my 243’s.
The other had a 6mm calibre. Personally I couldn’t hear any difference in the sounds
Sorry can’t help with the other questions.