Thread: Supressors.

Some of you guys in the know, if a was to put a supressor on my Varmit rifle will it fit a fat barrel? 22-243 which is 20mm at the muzzle?

If it is an overbarrel the smith will bore out the rear bush to fit the barrel diameter. The muzzle thread can be turned down to what ever is necessary.

The Gunworks Maximus should be the ticket. Designed for varmint & target contour barrels.

The maximus is what you want, I have one on my 22-243 varminter. Have a look at the photos in the show us your varmint rifle thread at the start.

Thanks guys

G'Day Fella's,

Shootm, in my experience, you are always better off to cut a thread as larger as possible at the muzzle!
If the muzzle is 20mm in diameter, get whoever cuts the thread to cut an 18mm or if there is enough metal, a 20mm diameter thread!!!

For another opinion on this, have a look at the current edition of NZ Hunter Magazine.
Greg Duley wrote an article on muzzle brakes and their attachment threads.
What he basically says is, if you remove metal from the outside of a hollow tube (the muzzle of a barrel), it actually makes the inside of the tube become slightly larger!
This is not good for a rifle, as the most important part of a barrel for accuracy, is the last bit of the bore before the muzzle!

So that being the case, what ever you do, don't let some dick talk you into cutting a 1/2" x 20 TPI thread, on a 20mm diameter muzzle!!!

Hope that helps

Doh!
Homer

18mm on a 20mm I think is too big.
That only leaves at best 1mm shoulder to pull the device up against.
5/8 x 24 is a better size

I thnk that spring from diameter change in a barrel is negliable at best - if it was an issue every barrel that has a taper from the chamber to the muzzle would have a bore like a blunderbus - especially sporter barrels. Same reasoning goes with fluting.

Crowns - my experience goes along with Robbie Tiffins findings - You can hacksaw a barrel off at the range, debur with a chainsaw file, when doing velocity testing and still shoot bugholes.
I've only come across 1 person who does a PROPER job of crowning on EVERY barrel - the huge stack of Trophys and Medals from around the World prove he knows what hes doing

I call BS on Duley then Homer. I'll add that to the fluting pile

Sort your shit out, if that was true there would be no fluting (bullshit that it is). If you flute then go to a heavier projectile any saving is then lost and any strength again would be long gone. So if you were going that way you would in fact weld a big fuckoff nut onto the barrel then thread that for the can or whatever other attachment you have. Why don't I see that happening?

Adding now: Only half pissed so probably won't be able to work it out myself tomorrow

G'Day Fella's,

The last thing I want to get into is some on-line verbal but......

If other suppressor manufactures made their suppressors like I make mine, you wouldn't need any conventional shoulder on the barrel (ask gimp about this)!!!

Why does ALL barrel fluting always stop short of the muzzle?
Read my previous post on this thread!

Why is factory barrel fluting always only a couple of mm deep as opposed to custom barrel makers?
Custom barrel makers, do all the machining (profiling, fluting etc) then lap the barrel to leave the muzzle a bit tighter!
I imagine most factory barrels, never have their barrels lapped, so.......

There are more examples I could go on about but I'll leave it at that!

Doh!
Homer

Originally Posted by Spanners

18mm on a 20mm I think is too big.
That only leaves at best 1mm shoulder to pull the device up against.
5/8 x 24 is a better size

I thnk that spring from diameter change in a barrel is negliable at best - if it was an issue every barrel that has a taper from the chamber to the muzzle would have a bore like a blunderbus - especially sporter barrels. Same reasoning goes with fluting.

Crowns - my experience goes along with Robbie Tiffins findings - You can hacksaw a barrel off at the range, debur with a chainsaw file, when doing velocity testing and still shoot bugholes.
I've only come across 1 person who does a PROPER job of crowning on EVERY barrel - the huge stack of Trophys and Medals from around the World prove he knows what hes doing

+1 IMHO keeping the thread away from the bore is a good idea, but keeping it so far away as to have a such a small shoulder that the brake or suppressor cannot be reliably pulled up on to it is severly defeating the purpose.
This will cause the brake or suppressor to continue to rotate past the prefered point.
This can lead to very undesirable POI issues with suppressors & the un-phasing of ported directional brakes.
The band aid fix for this is to use the less efficent radial brakes.

Talking about brakes how much clearance should you run inside the bore ?
I have seen numbers from 20-30 thou on the net & in brake instructions.
I have one braked rifle here that has 13.5 thou clearance, a little close for my likeing.
I also had another on one of my rifles that had like 80 odd thou clearance a little much.
The less clearance you have the better the brake should work, but at what cost.
Carbon build up & peening can be an issue, also if/when the brake comes loose will it strike the brake ?

I have cut a few barrels down at the range with a hand hacksaw & then recrowned it with a battery drill & countersink bit, rough as bro
You should see the look on Guys faces when they see me do it & then when they see some of the groups after the cuts

Shootm a Gunworks Maximus is what you want, I have two they work well

It is a real thing, whether it's significant or not...? Roedale also recommend going as large a diameter thread as possible.

Homers cans shoulder against the muzzle so you can go a larger thread.

Originally Posted by Homer

Why does ALL barrel fluting always stop short of the muzzle?
Read my previous post on this thread!

Because it would loook FUGLY!

Why is factory barrel fluting always only a couple of mm deep as opposed to custom barrel makers?

My factory fluted barrels are all deep - profile makes difference to depth

Custom barrel makers, do all the machining (profiling, fluting etc) then lap the barrel to leave the muzzle a bit tighter!
I imagine most factory barrels, never have their barrels lapped, so.......

I've brought a few custom lapped barrels (Shilen, Truflight)- always supplied as a blank - barrel is lapped before its even sent out to Smith for chambering, profiling, fluting etc

Spanners, you answered your own statement or question there!

I've brought a few custom lapped barrels (Shilen, Truflight)- always supplied as a blank - barrel is lapped before its even sent out to Smith for chambering, profiling, fluting etc[/QUOTE]

Well I suppose I should have said, custom barrel makers, do all the machining (profiling, fluting etc) then lap the barrel to leave the muzzle a bit tight, prior to then fitting the barrel to the customers action.


Double Doh!!
Homer

custom barrel makers, do all the machining (profiling, fluting etc) then lap the barrel to leave the muzzle a bit tight, prior to then fitting the barrel to the customers action.

The blanks are lapped in the US before shipped across the world before being touched by Gunsmiths lathe for profiling etc, same with the only local made barrels - Truflight.

Got a Bee in your Bonnet today Spanners?

Doh!
Homer