T Rail or not to Rail

As a follow on from the budget rifle thread, the rifle has been attained / Rem 700.

It heads away to be threaded and Suppressed this weekend.

Next step is sorting Bases / rings and Optics.
I have never had a rifle with a Picatinny rail. As discussed the primary function of this rifle is a Deer Rifle with I would guess most shots ranging from 100 - 200 mtrs but I do want to try to get out to 600 yrds and maybe further ( target / gong )

First question: do I get a Rail or stick to base's and rings ?

Second : advantages and disadvantages of a rail ?

Third: if I do get a rail do I go level , 10 moa or 20 moa ?

This is a fun gun and the budget is tight to see how far and what kind of rifle I can assemble that is accurate, reliable and effective for a modest amount .

Cheers guys, let the opinions and knowledge flow. :thumbsup:

20 Moa all the way! :-)
Dpt has some rails back on the shelf.

How much elavation adjustment does your scope have? Or will you be using the reticle at all for elavation correction?

I don't have rails on any of my rifles. Just rings, talleys seem to work well.

If you don't have enough adjustment in your scope the other option is Burris signature zee rings with the offset inserts to gain some moa back.

What caliber is your Remmy?

What scope are you putting on it and how much Elevation is available in said scope?

Cheers
Pete

Rail all day. Other than the ability to get one with built in cant, it also gives you a lot more options for ring placement. If your scope has over 20MOA of adjustment below your zero, I would recommend a 20MOA rail. It's wasted adjustment on your scope otherwise. Try and get a rail with a built in recoil lug - this removes the shearing force of recoil acting on the mounting screws of the rail.
You also have a lot more choices for rings when using a picatinny rail.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by P38

What caliber is your Remmy?

What scope are you putting on it and how much Elevation is available in said scope?

Cheers
Pete

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7.08mm, scope hasn't being purchased yet but it won't to flash.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by viper

7.08mm, scope hasn't being purchased yet but it won't to flash.

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@viper

I know SFA about long range shooting or setting up a rifle for long range but I'd think I would start by looking at the trajectory of your 7/08 loads to determine how much drop you get at the range you want to shoot over then work back from there.
That's what a Near would do ;)

You may find you don't need a rail and most scopes should have enough elevation to get you out to 600m.

But remember I know SFA about setting up for long range shooting

Cheers
Pete

Is there a minimum about of MOA that I should be looking for in a scope ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by viper

Is there a minimum about of MOA that I should be looking for in a scope ?

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Enough to get you out to the maximum distance you want to shoot.

Cheers
Pete

dont worry about how many MOA your scope has . . .. go for as much scope quality as you can . . . then sort your rings / bases to get the distance you want to shoot out to.

i like to get the reticle into the middle of its range if i can, if that takes a combination of canted base and Burris Signature rings thats what it takes.

good luck mate . .. . R

Rails are good when you're taking scopes on and off all the time. Or sharing an optic between a few rifles. I have a rail on my hunting rifle but would rather go back to Talley's, but I'll be sharing the scope between this and my varmint rifle so I'll keep the rail on. Remember rails will add height and weight.

Rails are great for some things but I find them a pain on a rifle I have to top load. In fact one of the rails was modified to give me more access when top loading by a chap with a milling machine
I have 3 M700s, 2 have rails but my SAUM Hunting rifle does not as wont ever be railed
just my .02

My 2c is it is never a good idea to add another part unnecessarily. Another part to add weight and complexity (top loading etc as above) but most importantly im my mind another part that could come loose or fail right when you dont need it too.
If you need the moa or need the rail to get mounts to fit then by all means fill ya boots but if you dont then dont and save some cash.

Sent from my SM-A320Y using Tapatalk

I have rails on most of my centrefire rifles. As I see it there is one less part than with two separate bases and the one piece means it is less likely to move, which would cause it to loosen when a torque is applied. I only have one with a drop box mag and very rarely do I fill the magazine by removing it, I mainly top load. The only one I don't have a rail on is the one I mainly feed from the magazine and it has a blind mag so gets top fed too anyway. Now I am have a couple with a canted rail, just for when I'm able to shoot a little further.

For a newbie to hunting a set of Talley mounts will work and give you enough elevation to shoot out past 500 yards with most scopes . If you get into reloading and load Nosler 120 B Tip at 3000fps it should get you to 650 yards with 12.5 MOA of elevation. The Talley are nice light and strong ring and base combined unit.

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So are the Talley mounts a set of rings and base in one piece that are canted or a set of normal rings that are canted ??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by viper

So are the Talley mounts a set of rings and base in one piece that are canted or a set of normal rings that are canted ??

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They are based and rings in one but no cant

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I ain't really a fan, of rails only have one rifle with one, my cooper 20 vartarg, bit more difficult to top load, prefer the one piece Talley, have on most of my other Centerfires, but can see advantages, for long range and swaping of scopes.
How far are you planing on shooting ? 7-08 is pretty flat shooting, should get past 500m with std rings and bases.

I do use rails and repeatable QD mounts

Great for flexiability (different scopes etc) but probably if you aren't going to use that flexiability it's probably a waste unless on the rifle already