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Thread: tight bolt

  1. #1
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    tight bolt

    Morning all - I've a cheapy 7.63x39 - has quite a tight bolt on close - and if i chuck empty once fired brass back in the chamber refuses to close.
    Looks like the extractor claw is leaving pretty solid marks on the rims.

    Other than sending to a smith - where should I be looking for the problem? Anything common I can look at?

    cheers
    @

  2. #2
    Sending it Gibo's Avatar
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    action screws?

  3. #3
    ebf
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    Mushroom juice ! Hic ! ebf's Avatar
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    Post pics of brass fired from the rifle, I am keen to have a look at the case necks

    Candle a projectile and see if you are touching the lands, or if there are marks on the shoulder/neck

    Give the chamber and throat area a really good scrub

    Clean the barrel thoroughly

    Are the extractor marks a solid indentation into the base, or does it look like rotary mark left from closing the bolt ?

    I'm in the Hutt, and have dies and measuring equipment for x39 cases if you want me to have a look.
    Viva la Howa ! R.I.P. Toby | Black rifles matter... | #illegitimate_ute

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibo View Post
    action screws?
    Nup - same issue with action out of stock.
    Should say I've checked ejector 'slot', screws, mount screws, chamber for grit etc...

  5. #5
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gibo View Post
    action screws?
    +1
    Yep, if a Norinco I believe some of them have the action screws too long.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebf View Post
    Post pics of brass fired from the rifle, I am keen to have a look at the case necks

    Candle a projectile and see if you are touching the lands, or if there are marks on the shoulder/neck

    Give the chamber and throat area a really good scrub

    Clean the barrel thoroughly

    Are the extractor marks a solid indentation into the base, or does it look like rotary mark left from closing the bolt ?

    I'm in the Hutt, and have dies and measuring equipment for x39 cases if you want me to have a look.
    I'll get a photo up when I can, but they are not solid indentations in the base, more looks like rotary marks from closing the bolt - basically rounding the outside edge off at one point.
    Like the angle is wrong on the claw or the claw sits too far in.... or something so that it gets pushed over the edge with too much force.

    Thanks for the offer - might be taking you up on that!!

    @

  7. #7
    Member Tommy's Avatar
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    @thejavelin I thought that was rough machining making those marks. Never thought to try a fired case back in the chamber.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy View Post
    @thejavelin I thought that was rough machining making those marks. Never thought to try a fired case back in the chamber.
    Yeah interesting aye - goes good - sighted it in and am happy with it for a goat buster/truck gun - but just want the action a bit smoother - don't want a racket in the bush smashing the bolt down.
    Seems much tighter than anything I've used.
    Taken most of the rough machining outta the contact points - just can't get this last bit fixed.....

    Edit - I should note that the tight bolt and ejector marks might be totally unrelated.

  9. #9
    Member deepsouthaussie's Avatar
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    Had a similar issue a few years back after changing barrels and head spacing was a little tighter. Ejector claw would damage the base of the brass and became very difficult to chamber a load. Took to gunsmith and had a wee bit taken off the claw and all was good from then on..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by deepsouthaussie View Post
    Had a similar issue a few years back after changing barrels and head spacing was a little tighter. Ejector claw would damage the base of the brass and became very difficult to chamber a load. Took to gunsmith and had a wee bit taken off the claw and all was good from then on..
    Hmmmm I was actually wondering if polishing the top of the claw might be a goer...... just a thou or so....

  11. #11
    Member Tommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thejavelin View Post
    Yeah interesting aye - goes good - sighted it in and am happy with it for a goat buster/truck gun - but just want the action a bit smoother - don't want a racket in the bush smashing the bolt down.
    Seems much tighter than anything I've used.
    Taken most of the rough machining outta the contact points - just can't get this last bit fixed.....

    Edit - I should note that the tight bolt and ejector marks might be totally unrelated.
    Smashing the bolt down? Never had it that tight, just a bit more resistance than the other couple of things I own. What make ammo are you using in it? Brass or steel cased?

  12. #12
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    "smashing" is bit of an exaggeration - needs a forceful close.
    Was just using steel cased - cheapo Tulammo.
    But good point will test with a brass case tonight.....

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by thejavelin View Post
    "smashing" is bit of an exaggeration - needs a forceful close.
    Was just using steel cased - cheapo Tulammo.
    But good point will test with a brass case tonight.....
    you mention its tight to close i get this issue when the shoulder on the case gets to long, if its not the length of shoulder i wonder if the action has stretched. do any of your cases stick in the action needing to be tapped out via a rod through the barrel.?
    Muckos Shooting accessories and engineering https://www.facebook.com/aimnzengineering/

  14. #14
    Member peril 787b's Avatar
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    A lot of the Bisley's can be a right pain in this respect. Get valve lapping paste from an automotive parts shop, repco or the like, and smear it all over the bolt. Work it in the action a lot, and I mean lots. You'll find it will smooth out dramatically, allowing a nice quiet closure of the bolt and allow case extraction easily. I've done 3 or 4 now, and with that work, they become a nice cheap hack rifle.

  15. #15
    Member Tommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by peril 787b View Post
    A lot of the Bisley's can be a right pain in this respect. Get valve lapping paste from an automotive parts shop, repco or the like, and smear it all over the bolt. Work it in the action a lot, and I mean lots. You'll find it will smooth out dramatically, allowing a nice quiet closure of the bolt and allow case extraction easily. I've done 3 or 4 now, and with that work, they become a nice cheap hack rifle.
    On the bolt lugs? Where else would it hang up?

 

 

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