Thread: Tikka .270 what to do?

Keep it the way it is, 145eldx or 150gn Berger, bit of practise and 500yds is easy.

That would be most sensible...

if shortening bbl to 20in or less is top of your priority list then the 284 will be hard to match or better.

Yep agreed. And if still looking for less recoil then 708 or Swede.
6mm 7 twist for longies would also do it.

Cheaper to chop and suppress the 270 but where's the fun

Rebarrel to 3006 and be done with it

Woah! Some great ideas there team! The rifles currently suppressed and “popping noggins way out” really just a want some inspiration to do something else with it. Verdict of the responses? Im actually interested in trying some new loads and maybe drop a couple of inches.

Cheers

M

ok you want to drop couple if inches for portability???? my model 70 lightweight was 21" from factory and is 20 1/2" now .yes at times over the years Ive contemplated taking hacksaw to barrel when bush bashing,when first suppressed I was intending to hunt bare barrel in the bush,but have got used to the extra length and just suck it up now,suppressor stays in place. tried gunworks spartan and a DPT side by side...stuff all in it weight wise..DPT was less than inch shorter overall BUT because it was shorter itself the weight added was muzzle heavy...STUFF ALL in it either way....mate now using the DPT in his 25/06 and Im back to sharing a spartan with the 308 again...this one slightly fatter model so slightly shorter.
partitions rock.... hot heavy loads do kill fast and penertrate better than the 130s Ive used for years.
of all the deer Ive killed with 270 over the years the only ones that have moved more than 10 yards WERENT shoulder shot,eg bones werent busted...you take out the front wheels and its not going anywhere.
if you want to try radicle difference in loads,pick up box (or sample pack) of TSX 110grn Barnes......only them in that size, they preform the best out of many monos on market and lack of recoil completely make them interesting to fire.

Nice rifle you got there too, I reckon you are on the money. Shorten it up and get a good load going and you will love the increased user friendliness. Then after all that if you still have an itch then try something completely different. Just beware of the itch to play with new toys, its contagious

Leave it as is, i shoot the 150gr berger VLD out of my 270 Tikka at 2900fps. At lower elevations i can kill deer out to 650 yards nd high elevations out to 800 odd yards. Longest kill with it was 810 yards, sacked on the spot.

I regularly use it between 300 and 600 yards on stuff

you can actually just drop to a 130gr projectile to reducer recoil and still have heaps out to 600 yards or so.

If you really want to change to a short case then just go 6.5 Creedmoor, i have owned both and realistically the 270 outshoots the 6.5CM with a decent 150gr load on trajectory as well as retained energy down range and maximum kill distance, but the tradeoff is more powder and more recoil.

You wont gain anything by going 7mm08 as a decent load in that recoils about same as 270 especially if you end up shooting 150gr plus bullets, i used to have a 7mmo8 as well.

TO be fair for NZ game, even if you go 6mm Creedmoor and you load it with a 100gr plus bullet with a good BC you will still be sweet for reds out to 500-600 yards but as you go down in caliber your shot placement becomes more critical.


I would keep it 270, maybe suppress it and load 130s if you are looking at staying under 600 yards. Load the 130 gr SST for the main load that you zero it on and use for long shots, then load the 130 interlock as a closer range bullet on the same load and zero.

Rebarrel job is gonna cost you over $1000 if buying a new barrel, that is a lot of ammo money spent on very little gain.

Originally Posted by NewbieZAR

Leave it as is, i shoot the 150gr berger VLD out of my 270 Tikka at 2900fps. At lower elevations i can kill deer out to 650 yards nd high elevations out to 800 odd yards. Longest kill with it was 810 yards, sacked on the spot.

I regularly use it between 300 and 600 yards on stuff

you can actually just drop to a 130gr projectile to reducer recoil and still have heaps out to 600 yards or so.

If you really want to change to a short case then just go 6.5 Creedmoor, i have owned both and realistically the 270 outshoots the 6.5CM with a decent 150gr load on trajectory as well as retained energy down range and maximum kill distance, but the tradeoff is more powder and more recoil.

You wont gain anything by going 7mm08 as a decent load in that recoils about same as 270 especially if you end up shooting 150gr plus bullets, i used to have a 7mmo8 as well.

TO be fair for NZ game, even if you go 6mm Creedmoor and you load it with a 100gr plus bullet with a good BC you will still be sweet for reds out to 500-600 yards but as you go down in caliber your shot placement becomes more critical.


I would keep it 270, maybe suppress it and load 130s if you are looking at staying under 600 yards. Load the 130 gr SST for the main load that you zero it on and use for long shots, then load the 130 interlock as a closer range bullet on the same load and zero.

Rebarrel job is gonna cost you over $1000 if buying a new barrel, that is a lot of ammo money spent on very little gain.

Sorry i see you already supressed it.
If you are willing to calibrate SUPERFORMANCE powder for the temp instability then you can chop it to 18" too and still get enough speed to get to 500-600 yards.

I just left my barrel 22" and i run AR2217 as i have a separate bush rifle.

Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

Convert it to some silly 6.5 or 7mm caliber. 270 is only for discerning gentlemen anyway

How come you got one RS?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by NewbieZAR

Sorry i see you already supressed it.
If you are willing to calibrate SUPERFORMANCE powder for the temp instability then you can chop it to 18" too and still get enough speed to get to 500-600 yards.

I just left my barrel 22" and i run AR2217 as i have a separate bush rifle.

@NewbieZAR tell me more about this calibrating for temp instability ? I am looking at using superformance behind 145gn eldx hopefully get a ladder loaded up this week

Use it as a tomato stake, and get a 6.5 swede

apples n oranges...there is 300fps give or take difference in speed shown there...drop the poohseventy 300fps and the recoil will be pretty much the same....

Originally Posted by dannyb

@NewbieZAR tell me more about this calibrating for temp instability ? I am looking at using superformance behind 145gn eldx hopefully get a ladder loaded up this week

Essentially all it is, once you have fond your load, then what you do is.

Load up 15 rounds (9 can work too)

then break them up into 3 groups, and then you go to the range and chrony them across a range of temperatures that represent the temperatures you shoot in.

Say for instance you hunt in weather from -5 Degrees right up to 30degrees celcius.
then you take 1 lot and keep it on ice in the chilly bin, shoot them across the crony straight out the chilly bin while measuring the temperature of each round before you fire them and record this velocity against the temperature.

then you take the 2nd lot and d the same at around 15 degrees celcius, leaving them in the shade on a warm day should get you close

and then the 3rd lot you do hot, at close to 30 degrees celcius, you can leave them in the sun to heat up for an hour or so

once you have all these velocity vs temperature readings then you work out on average how many fps per degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit depending on what you use. once you know the variance per degree then you plug that into your ballistic calculator (most good ones have a field for this) and then you are done. provided you plug in your temperature that your base speed was measured at in and your temperature when you calculate a shot you should be sweet.

you can get away without it but your trajectory will change with temperature as that powder burns hotter and colder depending on temperature. ADI Powders aren't affected by temp enough to worry about