Thread: Tikka Synthetic stock shortening.

Just thought I'd share this little project.

I've just purchased (well, about to pay for it) @Maca49 Tikka .223 for the youngest.

I was thinking of getting a Boyd's, but chopping up a stock that cost so much seemed a little stupid. Particularly when you're not that gifted in the workshop.

I had a spare stock floating around as my .243 wears a Stug, so after a little reading, I chopped it with the drop saw.
The holes that the recoil pad screw into are quite long and went back past the cut off area so that gives me something to fasten the new recoil pad into.
Luckily enough, I had a Pachmayer grind to fit that has been waiting for a project and is half the thickness vs the original Tikka pad.
I have cut down one screw and used another shorter screw to secure the bottom where the sling stud gets in the way.

I just need to grind the pad down to fit and we are away with a "Tikka youth" stock.

I'll post up when it's all done.

Managed to sand the top and sides. Didn't put the space in and the bottom of the pad snapped a little. It's since been epoxied back in and is solid. Will get the bottom sanded when I get my hands on a belt sander.
Sold the Nightforce so I could buy two Sightron S-tac scopes... One replaces my Nightforce and one for the sons rifle. Some bastard bought the 4-20*50 so I had to settle for the 3-16*42

Rings and rifle on their way thanks to helpful forum members!
Looks like the LOP is just over 11 inches.

Compared to original stock

Just got back from a quick trip to the farm.
Managed to get some rounds through the .223 whilst there.
This stock has really shown me how important it is to have the correct LOP. It was near on impossible to shoot prone and get a good lock into the shoulder.
.223 is no beast, but when it's basically free to recoil where it wants, shooting groups was tough. @Maca49 has recommended the 75gr loads from Hornady but I had some Winchester, OSA and Hornady 55 sp already here... The OSA managed 3 shots tightly grouped and that was the only group I could get a half decent hold on the rifle.
I'm thinking the best way to determine if it will shoot the 55gr is to put it into my Stug and shoot some groups.

As for the Sightron Stac... It's a big step down from a Nightforce NXS. That was to be expected.

The 3-16*42 model could really use a 50mm objective. It's very compact, quite heavy and functional.
Very positive clicks when dialling, the power and Parallax rings turn smoothly.

The glass is ok. I would love to look through the 4-20*50 as that would certainly brighten the view. The picture is clear but lacks the warmth of the Nightforce or even the Nikon Monarch series.
Having said that, for $839 it's a decent entry level 30mm dialling scope that has a useful clear reticle and I especially like the dot in the middle as a pinpoint mark for aiming.
The hash marks are in 2 MOA markings at 100 yds on 16 power (unless I'm reading it wrong) and the reticle could be a little more defined.
I'm yet to test it at dusk, but given the objective and how it looks through the day, I would guess it will perform ok but not brilliant.

1;8 twist will like the heavier projectiles, I had probs grouping light projectiles, hence my change to 1:12, but I haven't found a factory load the shoots to my expectations for the 1:12 yet. but have had hand loads clover leaf at 100metres, The Hornady 75 grain was the most accurate I found for the 1:8 rifle, but I didnt spend much time trying, 1" with the 75grain was all I needed for my purposes of Fallow deer.
And bugger it I bought a 204 today, I didn't mean to, but it was a great deal. So I might have another Tikka 223 for sale shortly aaaarrrggghhh

Mate, those OSA 55 game king loads were all touching with the last 1-12 I had. Give them a bell before you sell it...

I bought some to try!

Excellent!! I've just looked up the 64 grain loads for this rig.... Hoping the Winchester does the trick.

I just recently cut down my stock by 20mm for my Trex arms. 15mm probably would of been better but i can always add a spacer if i need to.

My original plan was to trim a bit of wood to size to fit into the stock and glue it in there and then screw the recoil pad in. But the screw holes go pretty deep in the stock.
You will just have to shorten the screws or drill the screw holes deeper as my stock split when the screw bottomed out inside the original hole.

Im not sure if the T3x stock is the same design. Im sure someone who has replaced the recoil pad can say.


A few more pictures for anyone else who wants to do this in the future.
The "webbing / honeycomb" support that sits inside the factory stock. This might need to get ground down slightly or something new made to fit inside to give the stock some support and stop it from flexing.


The inside of factory T3 stock when you remove the recoil pad and support structure (before being chopped). You can see it just sits on webbing that supports the screw holes and the recoil pad.



I put up with too long LOP on rifles for 4 years. Man i wish i did this sooner.

What QD mount do you have in the butt?

when i shortened my synthetic sako75 stock a little I used newtek fiberglass reinforced bog and it worked a treat
the hollowness sound of the stock disappeared
taking the recoil pad on and off will dig it out tho

Originally Posted by Beetroot

What QD mount do you have in the butt?

@SlimySquirrel I'm keen to know this as well. Did you fill the stock or just epoxy them into the hollow stock?

I don’t recall the make but it had grooves on it so when I epoxied it in, they stayed put.

Made the hole tight and also exposed in through the back in the butt recess.

The best flush cups are Grovetech pictured below middle and left. Mine were more like the right side.