Thread: Tikka t3 light weight mods

Originally Posted by Pop Shot

@Shootm has been down this road successfully.

I had Gunworks mill the top of the action more to get live rounds out easier and a little weight saving and the bolt spiral fluted for looks aswell as barrel fluted as part of the build. Senator carbon fibre stock.So this is my 7-375 with a 26” barrel a bit heavier contour than standard. And with a Nightforce on it now.

Originally Posted by Shootm

I had Gunworks mill the top of the action more to get live rounds out easier and a little weight saving and the bolt spiral fluted for looks aswell as barrel fluted as part of the build. Senator carbon fibre stock.So this is my 7-375 with a 26” barrel a bit heavier contour than standard. And with a Nightforce on it now.

Attachment 136417
Attachment 136418

And just over 8 pound in old money.



Was lighter when I had the March on it.

Originally Posted by Shootm

And just over 8 pound in old money.

Attachment 136426

Was lighter when I had the March on it.

Doesnt weaken it or let it flex to much? Seems pretty bloody good weight with a NF ontop primo

Originally Posted by 308mate

Any chance I can see a pic of the full rifle? I'm considering whether to buy a factory fluted or get gun works to do it.

I'm really only wanting 2500 - 2550 as it is for a 400m max rifle so 16" will do me. I have an Oceania can for it so it will be pretty light.

If you're going short,get a standard barrel cut then fluted with about an inch un-fluted at the muzzle. Gives a better shoulder for your suppressor to screw up to (depending on your suppressor thread size) and looks a bit nicer with suppressor off too.

Always an interesting discussion.

If you're going to be using it "Alpine style" as in a long carry and one or two shots then the stock and scope are your best bet as you can use a brake rather than suppressor?

And if its "Bush bashing" then I guess the barrel chop, scope and stock will save you plenty.

I have a Superlight Creedmoor and it's wearing one of Kens stocks with flush cups as I dont walk for hours so can carry what I need in a waist pouch / bum bag. Also my scope weighs a bit, bipod is attached and suppressor adds to the overall weight gain but I'm happy and capable of the carry over the required distance.

Going REAL hard would be carbon barrel, stock and superlight scope set up.... but thats not for everyone.

Originally Posted by SlimySquirrel

Always an interesting discussion.

If you're going to be using it "Alpine style" as in a long carry and one or two shots then the stock and scope are your best bet as you can use a brake rather than suppressor?

And if its "Bush bashing" then I guess the barrel chop, scope and stock will save you plenty.

I have a Superlight Creedmoor and it's wearing one of Kens stocks with flush cups as I dont walk for hours so can carry what I need in a waist pouch / bum bag. Also my scope weighs a bit, bipod is attached and suppressor adds to the overall weight gain but I'm happy and capable of the carry over the required distance.

Going REAL hard would be carbon barrel, stock and superlight scope set up.... but thats not for everyone.

Any chance of a pic of your rifle with that setup? @SlimySquirrel

Originally Posted by sdogg73

If you're going short,get a standard barrel cut then fluted with about an inch un-fluted at the muzzle. Gives a better shoulder for your suppressor to screw up to (depending on your suppressor thread size) and looks a bit nicer with suppressor off too.

@sdogg73

Yeah man I am considering getting it fluted by Gunworks rather than buying a factory fluted, just want to hear more about the second page of this thread where it has been suggested post factory fluting is unsafe (see the bottom of page 2)

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....17/index2.html

Sorry mate, it’s in Lockdown

Waiting for it to return from the smith currently...

Originally Posted by 308mate

@sdogg73

Yeah man I am considering getting it fluted by Gunworks rather than buying a factory fluted, just want to hear more about the second page of this thread where it has been suggested post factory fluting is unsafe (see the bottom of page 2)

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....17/index2.html

Considering you're planning on doing this with a standard tikka barrel and the person doing the work doesn't flute deeper or further into the chamber area, no difference to factory fluting. The many good NZ gunsmiths that flute tikka barrels wouldn't do so if it was dangerous. Local shop here goes so far as to honour tikkas warranty after mods. I would suggest there's more to the story of that other barrel failing than aftermarket fluting(unless was too deep on a thin barrel).

Stumpy .308 Short as.

Light as. Fluted everywhere. Carbon stock Timney etc etc

Light as a light thing. Can shoot it off shoulder even

The guys even modded the stock to fit. Its legal length Robbie Tiffen job

I think the biggest thing to take into account when trying to lighten the Tikka is will the cost be worth it? $/g nearly every weight saving you make cost more that an annual GYM membership Haha
The factory Tikka T3 stock weighs in at 790g
The factory Tikka T3X stock weighs in at 860g (with forend swell)
My T3 with T3x stock With Hardie suppressor and Nikko 788g scope only weighs in at 3.92kg

Originally Posted by Happy

Attachment 137282 Stumpy .308 Short as.

Attachment 137283 Light as. Fluted everywhere. Carbon stock Timney etc etc

Light as a light thing. Can shoot it off shoulder even

The guys even modded the stock to fit. Its legal length Robbie Tiffen job

@Happy what does that top MDT rifle weight all up? Is that 16"?

Thats prior to shortening

I did not like the aluminium .

On the 308 it booted hard 125s going really fast

Originally Posted by Happy

Thats prior to shortening

I did not like the aluminium .

On the 308 it booted hard 125s going really fast

That’s interesting. My Tikka T3 .308 is in the DPT Hunter chassis and the felt recoil is far less than the factory laminated stock. And there’s no recoil pad, just metal. I noticed it immediately, so did the wife.

I have read on here that some of the stock experts reckon the Tikka stock is a poor design for felt recoil, but I don’t really know enough about stock design to comment on why that might be. All I know is that with the factory stock, shooting the 178gr ELD X on a hot load of 2206H, it was too sharp for me to be confident using it prone in awkward positions on the hill.

The chassis and 165gr and 2208 is fine, and I’ve been shooting deer well past 400m with it no probs. My 13 yr old shoots it well too.

G'day, thought I would ask you guys about tikka triggers. I am guessing I have been spoilt by the Triggertec Diamond on my last shooter and now I am hating the trigger on the tikka that has just turned up. So is there any cheaper mods that can be done to make this trigger feal better? I heard that you can replace a spring. Has anyone had success with this? Cheers G