All good stuff, cheers guys will give these things a try. I have also ordered a spring of that aussie site to try as well.
I shot 20 odd goats today with the shooter and the trigger is definitely the weak point
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All good stuff, cheers guys will give these things a try. I have also ordered a spring of that aussie site to try as well.
I shot 20 odd goats today with the shooter and the trigger is definitely the weak point
Totally agree, once I raised up my comb height, put the vertical pistol grip on (T3X) it made mine a lot nicer to shoot. If you can adjust the recoil pad vertically, that makes a big difference to how the rifle recoils. Majority of the time it needs lifting vertically for correct placement in shoulder crease
Received my after market trigger spring today, fitted in 5 minutes and made a huge difference. Much lighter pull weight
I can now contribute to the light weight tikka section. Includes a Hardy can and is deadly accurate! Attachment 142520
Thanks to those that convinced me not to sell that scope. Worked out well
https://www.gunworks.co.nz/shop/item...3-3lb-item-430
2 Stage .. Unreal. You know exactly when its gonna go bang
https://www.gunworks.co.nz/persisten...s/p1030328.jpg
Anyone tried the factory set trigger option? I had one in a hunter 75. Liked the trigger but rifle was a club. I reckon the std trigger is pretty good though with little tuning.
My T3x 308 just had a 32 ozs Millet scope removed and I put on a light weight Vixon 3x12x42 weighing 12.5 ozs.Nice little accurate dialing scope.Rifle +3 rds of ammo weighs 3.534kgs or 7.791 lbs.Add suppresser =350grams.
Taking off 19.5 ozs makes a big difference to carry.
Yeah when I got my 7-08 they had too many or some other f*#k up at the distributor, (Beretta NZ) and so were doing the set trigger for $100 extra. It was always going to be a truck gun, shortened, fluted barrel & bolt, suppressor, so it got the set trigger, then later a Ken Henderson carbon stock came up on here.
So it's a flash truck gun! Fussy on ammo but shoots great with the right load.
A Tikka T3 is light enough as it is! Why would you shave any weight off it? A bit of weight here and there will aid in recoil reduction and stability. I've carried 9 pound rifles around in the hills, and you get used to it. Your arms will tire to begin with, but over a year or two, you'll develop some muscle, and you'll hardly notice the extra weight.
What's wrong with a bit of suffering? Isn't that half the fun of going into the backcountry? Getting bruised and battered, and coming out stronger?
The ultra-light concept that's plaguing the outdoor gear industry is about lightening your pockets. Nothing else. Most of that gear isn't built to last either, so what you're really buying is a long-term relationship with a brand that'll happily sell you more stuff once what you have wears out/breaks due to a lack of durability.
Making smart decisions about what to take/not to take, and giving your body time to adapt to certain forms of stress will save you money, in addition to making you a more well-rounded person.
Your Tikka is perfectly fine. It's not too heavy, and not too light. :)
Of course, if bolt fluting etc is about aesthetics, or modifying things for the hell of it...more power to you.
Does anyone have any anecdotal or hard evidence on milling out the top of the T3 receiver on rigidity and accuracy? I may be way off, but thought that was a big step from the mauser/enfield designs with open tops to the target rifles of the 1950s and onwards, where they enclosed the top of the receiver to increase rigidity. Maybe for the Tikka's usual use the difference is negligible?
As a total aside, it would be fun to see just how much material could be shaved off a gun without it becoming inaccurate or dangerous, mostly in terms of a technical challenge.
Mine is as lightweight as I would go. I need to make sure I hold on when letting one fly. It is a good carry weight at 3.35kg. Maybe you could go lighter with a smaller caliber.
It certanly makes the t3 look nicer with the what gunworks does opening up the top of the ejection port, I dont find any difficulty putting additional bullets in how they are from factory when the mag gets empty
Here is the current tikka 7mm saum 3.4kg wearing a Hardy compact and a z3.
The bartlien 2b is a bit heavier than the Hardy tikka profile Attachment 175380
Very nice @Gkp
What is the kick like with it being that light ? Do you suppress or brake it?
Another idea i have seen to save weight is boring out the bolt body then inserting brass bushings on each end to the required sizes to support firing pin assembly. Doesnt look cool but saved near double what fluting does. I had a fiddle but was more of a quick discussion on the hill than a full run down so description may be a bit vague but it gives the general idea.
@308mate
The recoil is totally fine. I am use to light rifles I guess.
I am generally only firing one or 2 shots, not a target shooter although the 7mm saum prints very well on paper.
I don't imagine you would want to go below 3.3 kg in that caliber.
It's got a Hardy compact suppressor included in that weight. Cheers G
Drop the DPT and get a brake, my stug stocked a7 270wsm was 3kg with a fluted bolt, barrel and vx3 4.5-14 sitting in talleys was an absolute pussycat to shoot. Sellers remorse big time, pretty sure @hillclima still owns it
@Nick.m that's light 3.26 kg!
I am assuming that you have milled the top of the receiver and fluted the barrel? I was thinking about this for mine
Also what barrel length?
Cheers G
I like the suppressor, it never used to wear one but I chopped the barrel to 21 inches and suppressed and it now shoots like a dream.
Barrel is already fluted, but could loose some weight in the scope real easily and the bolt aswell.
Working on a 270 superlite at the moment as a experiment on how light I can get it. Im not going to mill the receiver though, I like the rigidity of this action and would rather not lose it. Will let you know how I get on weight wise once it's done. Modeled the stock on a Ross SDS, for something a bit different.
Attachment 175762
Attachment 175763
I'll probably go the bolt fluting route, but the barrel won't have any add on's. Done the lightweight bolt handle and need to do the shroud too. The buttpad will be the usual foam jandal, rubber pads are super heavy in comparison. Looking at eventually putting a sub 10 ounce scope on it too, haven't made up my mind there yet. The stock still needs pad, fill and swivels.
Attachment 175764
You are a clever bugger @FRST
How short can you go with centrefire bolt actions, allowing for a full length stock and barrel length for an over-barrel suppressor? What barrel length do you end up with? Overall length is of more interest to me than weight. Cheers.
Having carried a BSA CF2 around the hills since I was 16, - often wearing steelcap workboots and all sorts of other heavy as crap gear - I brought myself a new Tikka in 7-08 for my 45th birthday, 10 years back. Barrel to 20 inches, but a crown issue led to another inch chopped off. Suppressor, 2 - 10 Grandslam scope, used to have a bipod on it but don't use that much any more, weighs 3.35kg. I think the CF2 was about 4.5kg, so 1.15 kg saved there and another 2kg saved by ditching the steepcaps.....Unfortunately my weight had tracked that of the average All Black over those years (for different reasons) so I'd gone from 92kg to 108kg... I'm battling to save the 16kg from my gear.... Might have to cut out more donuts. Down to 101kg now.
Mainly used in the bush, shots to 300m every now and then. Hence not really thought about a brake, as my understanding is that you need hearing protection on with most brakes? But they are lighter and reduce recoil better than suppressor.
Thinking about the advances in gear in the last 20 years, pretty amazing really. The idea of a 3.2kg rifle easily capable of MOA, was fantasy or $20k in 1990.....Maybe the biggest advances are in clothing though?
@FRSTif you have the gear I'd look at doing something similar to what I mentioned with hollowing out the bolt body and using bushings to support the firing prin assembly in the appropriate places. If yourhaving a Smith do it fluting is probably easier. As for milling the receiver if you Swiss cheese it vs just milling the top off rigidity should remain very good similar to beam bending/truss theory.
I don't have the gear unfortunately. Sounds like an interesting idea though. I've done the Swiss cheese receiver on a another rifle. Made a little difference but not enough to warrant the cost. Probably would consider if I had milling equipment. Aesthetically I'd want to do it right, you can lose weight but end up with an ugly result if you weren't clever.
@FRST stock shape is primo!
I can't answer that, nothing special. Just pulled it out and reweighed it. It came in at 3.24kg checked on 2 different sets of scales..
Attachment 175837