Thread: Tikka T3 Scope Rings issues

@mayfly, I am "new" in this forum and "new" on hunting and shooting too(2years) but I have learned a lot during these two years. Joining this forum I learn A LOT more and whit people like you and many other I "meet" in here I am sure I will learn HEAPS more.
Thank you a lot for the advise, I will have a look n the stock and also follow the instructions from Vietnancam on how to set things up.

Thank you once again.

Mac

@PERRISCICABA
If you have only tried the one type of factory ammo, you need to try some different ones. I agree with the above statements about the groups, it doesn't look like a scope issue. Try some Hornady, Federal, etc. It is amazing how much the groups can differ between different brands. Your 7mm RM group shows that you can shoot, so we know its not you that's the problem

The other comment about the clearing barrel channel is also correct, I have had to clean those ribs up on my other T3's as well as friends Sako A7's. You should be able to run a sheet of standard A4 paper up the length of the barrel without it snagging.

Also, shooting off a bipod can play havoc with your groups if done incorrectly. All the standard synthetic stocks (Irrespective of brand) have some play in them when front loading with a bipod. Easiest way to fix that is get a B&C stock, they are the ducks nuts.

Best way to test the rifle's accuracy is to shoot using a proper front rest/sandbag and small rear bag under the butt.

Originally Posted by Bryan

@PERRISCICABA
If you have only tried the one type of factory ammo, you need to try some different ones. I agree with the above statements about the groups, it doesn't look like a scope issue. Try some Hornady, Federal, etc. It is amazing how much the groups can differ between different brands. Your 7mm RM group shows that you can shoot, so we know its not you that's the problem

The other comment about the clearing barrel channel is also correct, I have had to clean those ribs up on my other T3's as well as friends Sako A7's. You should be able to run a sheet of standard A4 paper up the length of the barrel without it snagging.

Also, shooting off a bipod can play havoc with your groups if done incorrectly. All the standard synthetic stocks (Irrespective of brand) have some play in them when front loading with a bipod. Easiest way to fix that is get a B&C stock, they are the ducks nuts.

Best way to test the rifle's accuracy is to shoot using a proper front rest/sandbag and small rear bag under the butt.

All true except for the B&C stock,I bought one exactly for that reason presuming that the tikka will shoot better,but mine did not. Even though it was torqued correctly the gun was rocking under recoil as we all found out later at the gun range,several top benchrest shooters tried also just to eliminate any error on my behalf. I have had another of the identical rifle and caliber that clover leafed the first 3 shoots before the barrel got hot. Anyways back to the stock,I took it to a gunsmith/stock maker and he discovered that the action was rocking under recoil and I could see the markings on the alloy bedding block clearly. The remedie for that was to machine the pillars out to countersink the scalloped actionlugs of the tikka t3 and install s/s pillars at the same time,worked a treat after that. But no it is not a straight drop in fit, even the rear tang had to be slightly machined. If you take a close look at the t3 the bottom of the action is somewhat flat but the the actionlugs are rounded whereas the B&C stock is all rounded.In my opinion it is a very expensive stock to start with and by the the time you get it right it cost me nearly 850.- PFFFFFT
ooh yes and it is for sale!
CDI bottom metal,2x aci 5shot mags $ 700.-

@mayfly,
Dude!!!! Don't push me to much. LOL.
I love to have it tomorrow but my budget is "very" tight right now. I have few payments to receive but till then i can't commit myself to any other purchase. It is all the best and all that i love to have, but for now i will keep on stand by.

Please keep me in mind, i am going to town now and will get some different ammo to try and maybe even a different ring.

Thank you a lot! Keep in touch.

Mac

Originally Posted by PERRISCICABA

Hi everyone,
I got a Warne Maxima 30mm ring for my Vortex HS-T so i can put it over my Tikka but i can't align my scope properly.
As it is a "sideways" mount pieces it only can be fitted on the piccatiny rail that came with the rifle.
My question for some advise is, could it be a problem with the rings or the piccatiny rail standard from Tikka?
I use all my acknowledge and did ask few of my nzda friends with a lot more experience than me and they comment that the problem can be with the piccatiny rail, even mention that i may need to lap the rings.

Please, any thoughts and suggestions? I have Weaver tactical skeleton 6holes in my other 2 rifles.

Cheers.

Mac

Can I ask why you brought Maxima rings instead of the Tikka specific rings that Warne made?

I have Maxima rings on two rifles and haven't any issues with them moving or getting them on.

Fair call @mayfly
I have to admit there is a bit of a quality control issues with certain batches of the B&C Stocks. I have one on my 7mmRM and it fits perfectly, and I shoot bugholes with it. I did have to strengthen the front sling lug as it stripped the thread off under recoil from the bipod very early on. I looked at a replacement one, but the finishing on all of them was crap. My one is significantly better inletted and finished compared to the replacements, so I repaired my original one and continue to shoot it.

I don't have that flash harry bottom metal and steel magazine setup though.

Originally Posted by Bryan

Fair call @mayfly
I have to admit there is a bit of a quality control issues with certain batches of the B&C Stocks. I have one on my 7mmRM and it fits perfectly, and I shoot bugholes with it. I did have to strengthen the front sling lug as it stripped the thread off under recoil from the bipod very early on. I looked at a replacement one, but the finishing on all of them was crap. My one is significantly better inletted and finished compared to the replacements, so I repaired my original one and continue to shoot it.

I don't have that flash harry bottom metal and steel magazine setup though.

Only reason I got that bottom metal,mags are cheaper than stock TIKKA/SAKO,and you can have 5/10 shot mags,and those mags are made by ACI and take real abuse,try doing that with a Tikka one, besides beeing overpriced. Only in New Zealand though since Beretta and Gun city have the monopoly! PFFFFFFT

Originally Posted by PERRISCICABA

@mayfly,
Dude!!!! Don't push me to much. LOL.
I love to have it tomorrow but my budget is "very" tight right now. I have few payments to receive but till then i can't commit myself to any other purchase. It is all the best and all that i love to have, but for now i will keep on stand by.

Please keep me in mind, i am going to town now and will get some different ammo to try and maybe even a different ring.

Thank you a lot! Keep in touch.

Mac

Where is town for you and what's the caliber?

Town is queenstown and caliber 7-08

Originally Posted by PERRISCICABA

Town is queenstown and caliber 7-08

Got a mate in the card roan valley with 7000acres,shoots the same caliber and same gun. Shoots cloverleaf groups with 140 gr accubonds,if you like I can pm you his details.

Originally Posted by mayfly

Sorry can't help you with that as I never had these but it is getting good reviews,having said that it requires a rail which I'm no longer a fan of as I prefer a direct mount straight onto the dovetail. But this could be your problem if your stock is plasticky,it certainly fixed my flyers!Attachment 27563
Tikka claims it's free floating but in actual fact only up to this point and that is where the barrel touches the stock under fire ,harmonics are completely of.

Sorry for the hi jack Mac
So i got rid of those two plastic nubs, i can now get paper past that point but it gets stuck again well forward of the front screw. Do i start taking more off the sides?

Originally Posted by mayfly

Only reason I got that bottom metal,mags are cheaper than stock TIKKA/SAKO,and you can have 5/10 shot mags,and those mags are made by ACI and take real abuse,try doing that with a Tikka one, besides beeing overpriced. Only in New Zealand though since Beretta and Gun city have the monopoly! PFFFFFFT

What is the length like on the 223 ACI mags? My 223 mag is to short for what I would like to do, but I'm probably going to modify it. Are the ACI ones better for length?
Would be cool to have a 10 shot mag, but I do quite like the soft, non-stabby lines of the factory mag and bottom metal/plastic.

Originally Posted by Gibo

Sorry for the hi jack Mac
So i got rid of those two plastic nubs, i can now get paper past that point but it gets stuck again well forward of the front screw. Do i start taking more off the sides?

I came across this too and subsequently got a socket that was a bit larger than the current channel, and sanded the whole thing wider everywhere and now have a very generous gap the whole way along. This is probably your best bet.

Originally Posted by Gibo

Sorry for the hi jack Mac
So i got rid of those two plastic nubs, i can now get paper past that point but it gets stuck again well forward of the front screw. Do i start taking more off the sides?

What front screw? If you can get a dollar note this far you're all good!

Originally Posted by Beetroot

What is the length like on the 223 ACI mags? My 223 mag is to short for what I would like to do, but I'm probably going to modify it. Are the ACI ones better for length?
Would be cool to have a 10 shot mag, but I do quite like the soft, non-stabby lines of the factory mag and bottom metal/plastic.

Don't know about .223 aci mags,as far as I know they only make 308,300,338lm,but could be wrong,if yours is a tikka look up the TIKKA PERFORMANCE CENTER ,Jason is great to deal with and exports to nz