I will be buying a Tikka T3x Tac A1, in .308, what optics would folks suggest?
I don't really know too much about scopes but would like to get a good/high quality one.
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I will be buying a Tikka T3x Tac A1, in .308, what optics would folks suggest?
I don't really know too much about scopes but would like to get a good/high quality one.
Based on your rifle choice, sounds like you’ll be shooting longer ranges. Depending on what you want to spend, you can’t go too wrong with any of the higher magnification Leupolds
Nightforce. SHV.
Thats what I've got on mine with NF rings.
You are aware of how much they weigh?? ( the rifle that is)
Thanks for that. I wasn't aware of the nightforce brand.
I'll be laying down mostly with the gun, shooting long, so the weight will will not be to much of a bother. After a year or two of learning the trade... I'll then begin to hunt live... and I can then get a more hunting specific .308. At least that is the plan.
A .223, .308 and a 338 Lupua... then a hunting .308.
Why is 5 kgs excessive, for a long range rifle?
Its not excessive. They are just heavy (In my opinion) by the time you mount optics.
Very accurate though. Look at the replacement black label fore end with integrated bipod. Very functional
Is this the one? It looks good how it folds up streamline.
https://www.gunmart.net/shooting-acc...ods/blk-bi-pod
I suggest first researching:
FFP vs SFP
Mils vs MOA
Next decisions are tube diameter/zoom ratio/parallax/turret style.
Scopes are a case of diminishing returns for your money down.
There are plenty of options to cover nearly every feature, for every budget.
Pick a budget and then go from there to meet your personal requirements.
For a capable LR scope that doesn't break the bank I'd go for a element Titan 5-25
I run a lot of High High end optics but I wouldn't hesitate to run one of the above.
Id recommend FFP but you can go either mil or MOA to suit your preference.
To learn its best to try shoot with experienced people and shoot often enough to gain confidence. Id recommend any of the practical rifle competitions across NZ
Also I wouldn't recommend buying a 338 Lap...
If you have a budget in mind that would help provide some input on options.
Agree with kiwi303.
The trend is FFP and mil and for a new shooter if you’re not set on moa, I’d go mil from the start.
There are heaps of good options between the 1500 to 2000 mark (new)
2nd hand you can get some higher end bargains around that range as well
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I am big fan of .308 and at risk of starting a caliber debate it might be worth considering 6.5 Creedmoor.
I have shot .308 out to 1000 yds and while it can be done if you are shooting distance the 6.5 is easier.
One of the things I like about .308 is ammo price but when you get into match ammo the two are pretty much the same.
You can compare the same ammo in different calibers at GC and see what I mean.
https://www.guncity.com/ammunition?f...N%7CAmmunition
https://www.guncity.com/ammunition/c...e/65-creedmoor
I apologize if I'm teaching you to suck eggs but if I were to start again it would be with 6.5.
As for optics I'll take MRAD over MOA every time, the math is so much easier.
After that pick your features and set a budget. I think the current rule of thumb is 2x per 100m.
Just be careful getting too much magnification. If you dial up to much its hard to find the target and you will lose it and have to re-acquire when the recoil kicks in.
You can add a mini red dot to help with that though.
Basically there is no free lunch.
300 gainers at 2900 push back.
I have owned and shot a lot of big bangers including 50cal and now my biggest is a 300 norma mag shooting 225g.
Even then you know your sending a fair bit of powder and projectile forward at a great rate of knots.
Short awnser for your question is recoil and lots of it!
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Agree with Dirk and Kiwi, Mil and FFP if this is a dedicated range rifle.
I’ve not used any Element scopes but they seem to get good review’s, without knowing you budget I’d say go for a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56, pretty old bang for the buck.
I wouldn’t buy a 338 Lapua, far too expensive to shoot. 300 Norma makes more sense in most instances, 338 Norma if it must be a 338.
I also would buy a 6.5 Creedmoor rather than a 308 but expect that to be an unpopular opinion.
This is mine it has a NXS in 5.5 22 X 56 in a 20moa spur mount it now has a Atlas cal2 tall for a bipod .
Shoots good to ay .
Attachment 232807
Attachment 232808
Attachment 232809
Not sure if you’re 100% sold on the Tikka, there is smoking deal on a B14 HMR offered by Sh00ter in the buy sell swap.
Worth considering as would give you far bigger budget to sink into glass for a comparable shooter.
Major functional difference between the two is non folder and 5 shot vs 10.
A folders main advantage is during cleaning.
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....s-stuff-97740/
On a 308, 4-16 or 3-18 even 2.5-10 will get it done just as much as 22 or 25+ power top end.
I run a 4-16 on my 308 and a 5-25 on my 338 and have never felt disadvantaged.
Everything in optics is a compromise. To get big zoom ranges with optical quality and other desirable features is expensive. The second hand market is well worth considering here as there are often big savings to be had on new.
Some reliable brands for a dedicated gong/competition gun are Nightforce, Schmidt Bender, Minox, March, Kahles, the higher end Vortex and Leupolds.
Don’t get discouraged about being warned off the 338 either, it’s good advice, but if you can afford to run one, have at it I say…
Here's a beauty, The Delta Stryker is certainly very popular amongst kiwi shooters. A lot of them around with the PRS type matches.
I've noticed that there is a newer version of it... without the Ball joint... Does anyone have any experience of the 2 different types?
Apparently the new one also fits the Tikka T3x Tac A1.
https://blk-lbl.ca/product/blk-lbl-ar15-ar10-bipod/
Gets the stock out of the way of the cleaning rod, most competition type rifle run quite high combs with the TAC Al if you couldn't fold the stock you would have to usually drop the comb down to clean and then have some sort of reference to get it back to the same position later.
buggered if I really know. Possibly because the creedmoor was touted by some gun writers as some sort of magic wand. its not, but the 6.5 calibre has some very ballistically efficient projectiles available for it and it's is very mild in the recoil department. It can be used for range shooting as well as in the field, it will take pretty much any game available here in NZ with no fuss. Plus here's a biggy in the current state we find ourselves with reloading component shortages. You can source cases for the 6.5 Creedmoor in either large or small rifle configuration. I am struggling to find Large rifle primers but no problem getting the small rifle version. That's got to be a big tick for the creedmoor.
This forum tends to have a high view of 308, I was expecting some push back on my statement.
6.5 Creedmoor is hands down a better cartridge for long range shooting, less recoil, less wind drift, better ballistics in general.
The only reason to choose 308 wound be cheaper/more factory ammo options, or you want to shoot a particular discipline 5hat requires it.
Since the flow of factory ammo and projectiles has improved I don't think 308 is any cheaper to shoot than 6.5CM. There was a time over covid where 6.5mm projectiles were unobtainable but that's not the case now.
Another beginner dead set on burning money.
Classifieds incoming in 6-8 months
It will be way over 5kg by the time you add scope, mounts, suppressor and a full mag of ammo, it will be over 6kg with the 24" barrel. I have a TAC A1 and I thought I might carry it in the field but after setting it up and checking the weight there's no way I will, I have just finished docking the barrel to 20 inches and putting it into a carbon stock, now complete with a Delta 4-24x 50 its at about 4.6 kg. So I say if you want a long range rifle to carry in the field then forget about the TAC A1 but if you want a rifle for long range shooting at gongs and the like then go for the TAC A1 they are a fantastic piece of Kit for that sort of thing.
yes. 100% get a 6.5 cm.
Im fan on the 260rem but would never tell anyone to buy one. Just get the creed.
Thank you for this, as I then went and found a video on the Hornby podcast talking of this fact, saying the 6.5 Creedmoor is great in the longer distances. Given my Tikka Tac 3 will mostly be a long range shooter that sounds perfect. The low recoil, flat travel, etc...
Also I heard them talk of the "6.5 PRC"... which was quite interesting, from the long range side of things.
I can always get a super light weight .308 for hunting, once I've learnt the trade.
Thanks for this.
Hi Eamon,
I'm just wondering a few things here. I'm not having a go at you, just wondering about how it was you came around to wanting a tactical rifle, and how you came to that decision. Have you ever handled or used one of these ??
They are a cool rifle, incredibly accurate in the right hands. Deadly out in the field with the right optics and operator.
BUT!!, they are very heavy once you get said optics on them. It's not the sort of rifle you cart through the bush. The skills that you may learn from shooting this rifle at longer range are cool, but because the rifle is so technical and sensitive, you may struggle to transfer those skills to a hunting rifle unless you are going to shoot a LOT of ammunition down the range.
I don't think they are a 'beginners' rifle. Yes, you have to start somewhere, I know that.
Having said that I think you're being a bit hard on the guy 'Caberslash'.
I totally disagree.
The OP just needs to finds the right mentor(s).
First time shooters zap an egg @415m at our club shoots with little tuition from the owner of a well dialled in Tac A1 at. The fundamentals learnt range shooting can only make someone a better field marksman. The op will learn soon enough shooting is the lesser skill set to stalking and animal behaviour along with the caveats of application specific gear etcetera.