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I bought a brand new T3X a few days ago. It won’t shoot. Firing pin is striking too lightly to set off the primers. Bolt is nice and clean inside and trigger weight is adjusted toward heavy. It still won’t fire.
So... how did Tikka ensure it could deliver three sub-MOA shots before they delivered the rifle? Do they use a different bolt? If so how can they say any rifle can shoot sub-MOA if the bolt/barrel pairing hasn’t been tested?
Have have you tried it with more than one brand of ammo?
Also most new rifles that have been test fired at factory will still have traces of copper/carbon fouling left in barrel so you should be able to figure out if its been test fired or not......
Take it back and get shop to sort it.
It’s a Tikka!:thumbsup:
Interesting thought. Have you stripped and checked the bolt? Tried some different ammo?
If no good then just take it back to where you got it and ask them the same question I guess. They will sort you out.
Take some of the failed cartridges with you so they can actually see what your problem is- tell them you want a replacement rifle that actually works, this one is not fit for purpose, and not as advertised.Quote:
Originally Posted by stagstalker
I think you have to give them the right to repair first.Quote:
Originally Posted by keneff
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Correct, consumer law.Quote:
Originally Posted by 25 /08 IMP
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Real simple stuff but can you post a pic of the chamber designation and a pic of the ammo your using.
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Remove the bolt and magazine,get a torch and check how much of the front mount screw is protruding into the locking lug area of the receiver. Common cause of light firing pin strike.
You shouldn't have to use a particular brand of ammo, that's bullshit.
I've had two and both were excellent accurate rifles, take some case's and the rifle back to the shop .
They will give it to Beretta NZ to sort.
Check ammo vs Cal on barrel ....just to be safe
Had my Tikka completely apart for a full clean and found some very deep score marks on the firing pin shaft. Nothing some very fine wetndry then autosol couldn't fix though. Have never had a light strike since I've had it either.
I'd suggest pulling yours apart and seeing if there's something similar.
I have also seen some brand new Tikka rifles with rusted firing pins.
spray inside with bolt with brake cleaner
then inside the bolt with CRC
give it a try . . . worked with mine
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ype=vBForum_PoQuote:
Originally Posted by YosemiteSam
Unless your ammo is severely subpar, something is clearly not right with your tikka. Take it back.
Same issue as a bloke who had a brand new T3X in 6.5 Creedmoor had up at Auckland Deerstalker a few weeks back.
I was shooting my T1X beside him. No issue with the little rimfire Tikka.
When you buy a tikka first thing you do is take it to the range and test group it. Do not get barrel threaded or touch in anyway before doing. 3 shot group for lights and 5 shot group for heavier contour. If not under an inch, take it back for another one, pretty sure this falls under this.
Even with rifles without guarantee I'd do this and take back if not happy with performance if a decent brand.
Take it back and insist on a straight swap. Like I said on another thread, the first rifle after changing tooling at the factory is a cracker, the last one before changing tooling is potentially crap. No need to put up with it, you can't shoot a sub 1" group if it wont even fire.
@ChrisW
Am surprised how many blokes have told you to fiddle with it. Very bad idea.
DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART.
Phone Beretta NZ. Explain symptoms. Then follow their instructions to the letter.
Did I say DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART already?
What he said. Don't fiddle with things under warranty. Bad enough as it is with warranty issues. Just hand it back as soon as possible and stick to your guns (interesting saying that one) and let them sort it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyblown
The imprint on the primer was half what it should be. No modifications apart from 20MOA rail. I only had one box of hornady SST to work with but five different rounds failed to fire. I took it back. They’ll have a local gunsmith look first and then go to Beretta if gunsmith can’t get to the bottom of things. Thanks for all the input guys.
Make sure the retailer checks with BerettaNZ before they get a gunsmith to work on anything.
My bet is the ammo is a little short and/or the chamber is a little long.Quote:
Originally Posted by YosemiteSam
When you pull the trigger the cartridge moves forward with nothing but the extractor to stop it when the firing pin hits the primer.
Paint it black and put a gas tube on it, then sell it to the govt.
I'd just take it back and ask for a replacement. I wouldn't be keen on getting them to work on it; rather just get a straight replacement as the thing wasn't fully functional from the get go.
I would be asking it goes back to beretta not the local guy to have a tinker with then have a problem latter on on beretta saying bye bye.
Also i would be asking for a replacement gun. It would always be in the back of my mind.
Its not going to cost the shop to give you another gun and send this away for beretta to deal with.
Does the bolt fully close and is "loose" on an empty chamber?
I am picking a rail screw is too long and not letting the bolt close fully?
You do I had to with a ruger 77/22 It didn't work idk if they actually did anything to be fair as even they could not get it to eject cases when i brought it back.Quote:
Originally Posted by 25 /08 IMP
Legend. This was 100% correct. The 20MOA rail from GC has grub screws all the same length even though the rail is slimmer at the barrel end. So the grub screw there projects into the action a little more. Enough to impede the firing pin somehow.Quote:
Originally Posted by sdogg73
Does it fire now with the rail screwxremoved ?
If that fixes the problem then who ever mounted the rail needs to:
Apologise to Beretta / tikka for bringing their product into public disrepute
Refund labour charge for fitting
Replace a couple of boxes of ammo for you
Not work on your gun again ��
I've got a rifle with marginal firing pin strike and it has 10% fail to fire with hornady factory sst and eld-m and handloads with cci mag primers but is fine with federal primers that must be softer. The cartridges that failed to fired were towards the shorter end of the range of cartridge headspace length although within saami spec.
For gunsmiths here, how would a screw impinging on the bolt result in a light firing pin strike ?
I had the exact same issue with the same rail last year
The bolt doesn't close 100% of the way, the screw hits on the locking lugs
If I have used too long a screws on mine when fitting a rail etc it normally stops the bolt from closing completely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bagheera
So first thing you notice is the handle sticking out and not down.
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The gun city ones don't stick through a huge amount but just enough to be a problem, my bolt was around 1or 2mm off from closing all the way, it's a lot more obvious on anything with a 90degree throw
Failing to close the bolt completely is said to be a common cause of misfires.
Part of the firing spring's energy is used to close the bolt , making the strike weak.
So a mechanical problem could lead to what appears to be user error.
I'm not a gun smith, but have a bit of experience with Tikkas. The front mount screw protruding stops the bolt closing fully. This is my theory: being a push feed system, the cartridge is chambered with without full contact with the chamber as one locking lug can bind up on the mount screw. When the firing pin is released it merely shunts the cartridge forward more without setting the primer off. In some rifles the primer will work as the interference with the bolt isn't as severe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bagheera
Seen this on a few rifles and rail/base combos .
Sometimes its just the shape of the screws tip with having a little angle on it .Flatten it out and it works fine.
Has this happen to a few tikkas of mates, general problem was that from the factory the inside of the bolts are not generally lubed, and when the gun lands here it might sit in storage for months/years and then the Bolt either gets rusty or gunked up from other "stuff" and then the firing pin does not move freely and causes misfires or light strikes, usually remedied by stripping the bold and cleaning it and lubing it. I always strip the bolt on a new gun and clean it anyways.
My tikka t3x that i bought about a month ago was certainly testfired, barrel had had little bit of residue on the inside, bit no real markings on the bolt, in saying that also even now after 40 odd rounds i still have no marks on the boltface.
https://youtu.be/-1v1nGMTNBo
Have a look of this , it may help.
my old tikka have misfire with cci primer, swap primers problem solved.
Is this normal practice to drill right through to the bolt head when fixing mounts?
Our am I the only one that thinks this will just weaken the action?
Just seems a little crazy that they make an action that is that thin that you can’t get a decent mount to fix without the above drama.
Just asking...