I've got 3 different 303s which would only get bought out of the safe and used once a year. What do you guys put in the bore for long term protection in storage?
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I've got 3 different 303s which would only get bought out of the safe and used once a year. What do you guys put in the bore for long term protection in storage?
Have they shot corrosive ammo at any stage? If not, then a damn good clean followed by a strip out of all chemicals that might be left followed by a spray wax that's allowed to flow right through is the best long term storage. Won't stuff anything up like wood etc, as once dry it won't run away.
But, it's a bitch to get out.
Best option if you want something to protect and be easily cleaned is a heavier grade of oil and store muzzle-down...
no3 and no4 probably would have a some stage in their lives? no 5 not sure they look to have been well cleaned etc as bores look very good and I've given them a good clean as well when I got them. I store al my rifles muzzle down. Ill just use a heavy grade engine oil..
If using corrosive ammo te lean the next day…. And then just store with hoppes. It doesQuote:
Originally Posted by blip
Provide ongoing protection as well
As continuing to work away on fouling over time
I have had some guns in long term storage for years and tried a few products. I have moved away from petroleum based products as they eventually evaporate. The best consistent long term storage product I have found and can use recommend is Ezoxx. ( synthetic product) Of course having the safe moisture free is a must for a start. Do some reading on the product.
after treating with hoppes no 9 ( if fired ) I use remington oil for storage - never had a problem with it - I have a few that dont really get used much ( to old ) and I put dry rag thru twice a year and fresh oil seems to have served me wellQuote:
Originally Posted by blip
Corrosion X is very good at stopping rust. I use it on the outside of all my guns but there's no reason you can't use it in the bore. Be aware that no matter what product you use for rust protection in a bore, it might not save you if there is significant fouling left in the bore. Areas of heavy carbon buildup often lead to corrosion under them, ie "pitting".
dead right always remember what me old FS boss Russ a damn good gunsmith used to say solvents penetrate - oils coat - it is possible to put oil over fouling and have it sitting there eating away quietly - I use hoppes no 9 after firing and leave some in for a couple of days and then dry barrell - okay no green tinge on rag then Remington oil to store - 3-4 day trips I use break free at night not to much just a very light coat with a rag on a pull thru - I avoid the real thin CRC petroleum types many a good walnut stock stained with that stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by 6x47
Many a good scope fogged too
Once bore is clean you could use deodorised fish oil or CRC Softseal. Both are excellent long term and can be removed with brake cleaner and rag when required.
what about lanacoat ?(also CRC I believe)
For ever I have used Lanacoat or Softseal on anything mechanical that I leave outdoors.
Sent a Diesel pump out to Maui, covered with Softseal, when it came back corrosion was negligible.
I'm not proud, I spray all carbon steel rifles with Softseal and leave it on, when it gets warm moss and twigs stick to it, good camo.
Branded synthetic gun oil for me either G96 or Bore Tech
I was away from NZ for a decade. I cleaned my barrels to bare metal (Cu and C removed) and saturated them internally and externally with (sticky) chain oil. Stocks were removed. Barreled actions stored horizontally. Conditions were perfect on return. They weren't stored in the greatest of places - under a work bench at to mother's.
Wouldn't really recommend my method though for short to medium term.
For short term storage (weekly range shoot season) I flood mine with Hoppes 9 and store them barrel down. Hoppes is pretty much useless for Cu removal but if left in the barrel for a few days will work. I still have a bottle of the old Hoppes. Latest stuff is synthetic and minus the shite that Kalifornia bans.
For barrel oil otherwise I have been giving Frog Lube a run. Have in the past used a lot of the other snake oils as well.
For good general corrosion protection (not firearms) I like CRC Long Life or CRC Marine.
https://dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Inside vehicle doors I like fish oil. IIRC used to be called fisholene.
Tried lanolin years ago but cannot remember what my conclusions were.
I was wondering about a sticky chain bar oil..
Yip, it’s what I use. I hope it works or there will be several rusty rifles when I get back to NZ.Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
:roll::roll:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurricane
Lanacoat is great stuff but soft seal is another level up for sealing/ protecting metal. We use it on SXS’s destined for use on dairy farms, grazing blocks etc. DOC SXS that went to Stevens Island got treated with it, seems to be holding up so far. Some of the guys running 4 wheelers on beeches are happy with protection and that’s a harsh operating environment. So can’t see it not working ok. I’ve got one work rifle treated with fish oil ( at least 15 years since done ) and it’s been fine when action removed from stock a few times to check/ lube trigger assy. Other work rifle treated with SoftSeal, only had it since gun-grab and it’s fine. Two other rifles completely treated with fish oil 27+ years ago and they’re fine, safe queens obviously. Having said all that my old faithful 308 has mostly only had Breakfree CLP used on it since the product came out and it’s in great condition for a 45 year old rifle. Anyway enough of this, time to get ready to go deal to some deer if the rain stops. Thermal and night vision not so good in this shit.
I've got this stuff called old skunk oil. It's really thick, but it leaves a good coating on the steel.
You see it at the gun shows for sale for $10
and a side benefit is it smells great.
Why not.