Thread: what modifications

to help with better accuracy ?

I know it comes down to the shooter - but if you can eliminate the shooter, whats left ?

1. ammo - hand load developnig
2. Crisp trigger
3. bedded stock ? ( what happens in the case of a aftermarket chassis? )
4. Good rings + base + scope
5. Aftermarket recoil lug ? I see you can get titanium ones ?
6. Custom barrell as opposed to factory ?

An thing else you can recommend or - un recommend

Rifle make and model? Every one is different

Check crown and bolt lug contact

And headspace

7) A large budget.

for reference, Im wanting to setup my tikka t3x 300WM, average 500M max shots and would like to give it the best possible base to do so without going to overboard on budget.

I already have a DPT long range chassis, EGW 20 moa rail, tier one rings. Have ordered a titanium recoil lug and a lighter trigger spring.

And before I send it to the gunsmith, Id like to make sure i get what else I need before sending it in.

Originally Posted by Larskramer

for reference, Im wanting to setup my tikka t3x 300WM, average 500M max shots and would like to give it the best possible base to do so without going to overboard on budget.

I already have a DPT long range chassis, EGW 20 moa rail, tier one rings. Have ordered a titanium recoil lug and a lighter trigger spring.

And before I send it to the gunsmith, Id like to make sure i get what else I need before sending it in.

A titanium recoil lug on the Tikka T3x won't give you any accuracy improvement over the steel lug - it's just for weight saving. The stainless recoil lug might've been a better choice although that depends on the quality of stainless steel used. All three are a big improvement over the original alloy T3 lug.

You might have to experiment to find the correct torque for the action screws - usually 35 inch lbs front and 30 inch lbs rear is a good starting point.

T3 triggers are superb as they come and you can easily adjust the weight to suit yourself. They would be one of the best production triggers available and are almost identical to the standard Sako trigger.

It would be very unusual to have a Tikka that didn't have an excellent barrel and be trued correctly with the action with the bolt lugs squared, making full contact.

Precision handloads that are tuned to the rifle are probably going to make the biggest difference for you. Make sure your scope is free of parallax at the distance you're shooting.

Originally Posted by 10-Ring

A titanium recoil lug on the Tikka T3x won't give you any accuracy improvement over the steel lug - it's just for weight saving. The stainless recoil lug might've been a better choice although that depends on the quality of stainless steel used. All three are a big improvement over the original alloy T3 lug.

You might have to experiment to find the correct torque for the action screws - usually 35 inch lbs front and 30 inch lbs rear is a good starting point.

T3 triggers are superb as they come and you can easily adjust the weight to suit yourself. They would be one of the best production triggers available and are almost identical to the standard Sako trigger.

It would be very unusual to have a Tikka that didn't have an excellent barrel and be trued correctly with the action with the bolt lugs squared, making full contact.

Precision handloads that are tuned to the rifle are probably going to make the biggest difference for you. Make sure your scope is free of parallax at the distance you're shooting.

Thats a great post. thanks mate.

At some point id like to upgrade the scope to a nightforce. but thatyll be in the future.

apparently you can get the trigger down a little bit, but not too much as the action screw gets in the way hence why buying a new smalller tensioned spring.

Originally Posted by Larskramer

apparently you can get the trigger down a little bit, but not too much as the action screw gets in the way hence why buying a new smalller tensioned spring.

Yep, that will help. I've got one in my T3x. You can also shorten the trigger weight screw a little enabling it to unwind further before hitting the trigger retaining screw (not really recommended though). You can run into the situation where the sear is sitting on a knife edge and sometimes won't catch the firing pin.

In my experience, the biggest practical improvement in accuracy in the field (beyond the shooter, as you say, and not just at the range), comes from a predictable, light-enough, clean-breaking trigger.

thats the feedback im looking for striker, in my browning 308, and browning 7mmrm, they both have a much lighter trigger than my tikka. my tikka is always different, and not grouping properly!

I have alos just brought all my own reloading gear, so will develop loads also. Again I need to do this after its been to the smith.

Get a hold of Nathan Foster's book The Practical Guide to Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing and Maintenance. It goes into a lot of detail around small tweaks that can be done yourself with some care. I found it well worth buying and reading several times before working on my vanguard 270.

Originally Posted by StrikerNZ

In my experience, the biggest practical improvement in accuracy in the field (beyond the shooter, as you say, and not just at the range), comes from a predictable, light-enough, clean-breaking trigger.

There biggest improvement is to be had with the shooter realistically. All the other things are micro improvements.
There are plenty of instances where just changing shooter has made the difference between ordinary and exceptional, and probably as many where it's made none at all to be honest.
Breathing control, ability to intuitively assess atmospheric conditions knowledge of the cartridges ballistics, perfect stock fit and familiarity and absolute faith in your equipment are the things that in my mind make the real difference

Most factory rifles can be improved significantly with a trigger job and bedding. I'd do that first before worrying about anything else.