Thread: what modifications

Originally Posted by Larskramer

for reference, Im wanting to setup my tikka t3x 300WM, average 500M max shots and would like to give it the best possible base to do so without going to overboard on budget.

I already have a DPT long range chassis, EGW 20 moa rail, tier one rings. Have ordered a titanium recoil lug and a lighter trigger spring.

And before I send it to the gunsmith, Id like to make sure i get what else I need before sending it in.

A titanium recoil lug on the Tikka T3x won't give you any accuracy improvement over the steel lug - it's just for weight saving. The stainless recoil lug might've been a better choice although that depends on the quality of stainless steel used. All three are a big improvement over the original alloy T3 lug.

You might have to experiment to find the correct torque for the action screws - usually 35 inch lbs front and 30 inch lbs rear is a good starting point.

T3 triggers are superb as they come and you can easily adjust the weight to suit yourself. They would be one of the best production triggers available and are almost identical to the standard Sako trigger.

It would be very unusual to have a Tikka that didn't have an excellent barrel and be trued correctly with the action with the bolt lugs squared, making full contact.

Precision handloads that are tuned to the rifle are probably going to make the biggest difference for you. Make sure your scope is free of parallax at the distance you're shooting.

Originally Posted by 10-Ring

A titanium recoil lug on the Tikka T3x won't give you any accuracy improvement over the steel lug - it's just for weight saving. The stainless recoil lug might've been a better choice although that depends on the quality of stainless steel used. All three are a big improvement over the original alloy T3 lug.

You might have to experiment to find the correct torque for the action screws - usually 35 inch lbs front and 30 inch lbs rear is a good starting point.

T3 triggers are superb as they come and you can easily adjust the weight to suit yourself. They would be one of the best production triggers available and are almost identical to the standard Sako trigger.

It would be very unusual to have a Tikka that didn't have an excellent barrel and be trued correctly with the action with the bolt lugs squared, making full contact.

Precision handloads that are tuned to the rifle are probably going to make the biggest difference for you. Make sure your scope is free of parallax at the distance you're shooting.

Thats a great post. thanks mate.

At some point id like to upgrade the scope to a nightforce. but thatyll be in the future.

apparently you can get the trigger down a little bit, but not too much as the action screw gets in the way hence why buying a new smalller tensioned spring.

Originally Posted by Larskramer

apparently you can get the trigger down a little bit, but not too much as the action screw gets in the way hence why buying a new smalller tensioned spring.

Yep, that will help. I've got one in my T3x. You can also shorten the trigger weight screw a little enabling it to unwind further before hitting the trigger retaining screw (not really recommended though). You can run into the situation where the sear is sitting on a knife edge and sometimes won't catch the firing pin.

Originally Posted by 10-Ring

Yep, that will help. I've got one in my T3x. You can also shorten the trigger weight screw a little enabling it to unwind further before hitting the trigger retaining screw (not really recommended though). You can run into the situation where the sear is sitting on a knife edge and sometimes won't catch the firing pin.

factory the tikka spring is wayyyy heaver than my browning xbolts

Originally Posted by Larskramer

factory the tikka spring is wayyyy heaver than my browning xbolts

You should be able to get it down to around 1.5 lbs without changing the spring.