Nope. We shot it last week, my effort was judged closest but I didn't take the money. My group was well under moa but was one click left (10mm) and that put 3 holes over the edge of the black.
I like your thinking on this but I fear there are still too many uncontrolled variables that will make a reliable and repeatable result difficult. For example, environmental factors, wind, temperature (effects air density and powder, therefore velocity) and mirage. That's not to mention human factors, eg a cold day so extra jacket effects position etc etc.
I'd think a mechanical test of the scopes in question would be more reliable. But I doubt the protagonists would accept it anyway, this smacks of some sort of "belief" which as issues like node theory prove, people don't want the scientific explanation.
Yep for sure
When you basically have the formula 1 of rifles, cartridge, rest, flags etc that is capable of a genuine 1/16-1/8-1/4 multiple 5 shot groups if conditions/shooter allow, you start to appreciate the things you can't control & wonder how we shoot the odd tiny group with hunting rifles/Ladas![]()
Contact me for reloading components, brass, projectiles, powder, primers, etc
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Havn't figured how to get the Hornady Group Analysis pictures off the phone.
@Tentman. Im interested in trying the 5 shot challenge. However I don't have a dial repeatable scope and Im not going to do it at the cost of my current Zero. Ill try it at 100 and 400 if its acceptable to centre the Moa at the verified trajectory points at those ranges?
Unsophisticated... AF!
Never had an issue with any of my loopys, I'll drag my kimber out and shoot a string or 2 for data. Done a lot of miles without needing any adjusting.
Despite my slight zero offset - 1 entire 10rd group from yesterday (with factory ammo) beats the challenge, and the 2nd 7/10 did. It shouldn't be that hard for someone to do it ! It certainly hints that the average precision and accuracy out there is worse than people understand.
However the primary purpose of the thread was to try get some good data on whether common scopes actually hold zero or not
I don’t have the data and pics you do but, will try give a similar run down to you.
Range-100m laser verified
Rifle- 16inch P.o.f .223
Optic- Nightforce shv 3-10
Mounts- A.R.M.S return to zero mount
Ammo- 73gr Hornady ELDM factory
This is my main work gun, since switching to the ELDM 18ish months ago I’ve only had to re-zero once and it was a good knock. I’ve done a couple of check zeros after some knocks but havnt had to re-zero. Given how rough I am on my work gear, I’m very impressed with the scopes ability to handle knocks. I don’t have a pic of when I last zeroed but it’s about 1MOA, I could chase rounds and try get smaller but I’m happy with good enough for a deers eye ball at 100m. Once zeroed this set up will stay zeroed unless it gets a very hard whack, this is my first Nightforce and I’m very impressed with how it handles the knocks.
My leupold holds zero. The one problem I had were talley rings coming loose on a hunt.
I now run:
Dpt pic rail *blue loctite
Vortex pro rings
I didn't get a photo of the initial zero but went to the range in November and zeroed. Temp mid teens.
Public land hunt. 320m
Re check zero early Jan.
5mph wind
110m
Temp- high teens
No adjustments made
Reshot with different load
Same Temp
No wind
No adjustments gives same poi
I'll post a part 2 with both loads after the next shoot.
Check today. 1 click left from last time cos I realized I can. 105M and shooting off hard concrete - slight change in conditions
Zero today 0.015MRAD right, 0.12MRAD low. Maybe a zero shift down of 1 click?
Rifle has driven around a bunch, flown in a helicopter on the floor and shot 50 or so animals in the last 2 weeks. 4 days hunting. I won't draw any conclusions yet - I rarely shoot off concrete and would expect a possible change in POI from that, and would expect 0.02MRAD or thereabouts lower from the longer range - this group is roughly within the prior cone of fire.
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I've had horrendous experiences in the past with mounts letting go or just not holding zero (scope moving with the mount/base staying tight or the base letting go for whatever reason).
Now with the 'heavy' rifles, it's a solid one piece pic rail bedded or even glued and screwed down with a sintered material ring clamped with a good torque wrench and loctited to within an inch of it's life. Not sure if it was the move to heavy Nightforce scopes or just a run of average luck on the things, but since going to that methodology and component selection I have not had one move nor a zero shift at all, period. I don't tend to thud those around but am confident enough with the setup to use the scope as a handle.
Carry rifles with lighter scopes get one piece base/ring setups bedded/shimmed for level and checked for alignment, any issues that can't be cured by shims/bedding and the things are discarded replaced (I don't lap at all now). Again, no issues to date.
I'm very particular with the setup of the scopes now, aligned to the bore centerline as close as possible, all screws checked for almost full depth of engagement and seated with loctite and a torque wrench, scope reticles centered prior to fitting and checked to ensure the reticle is aligned with the elevation and windage screws, then levelled as close as possible to the centerline of the action.
As I said, since going down that route I haven't had a zero shift even with some horrendous knocks. One rifle got caught by a tree branch and flicked off a 4 wheeler breaking the straps on the rack and it bounced down a bank - not me driving and I didn't see it fly but the guy driving owned up which was something). After washing/cleaning the mud out of the scope there actually wasn't any damage at all, which surprised me. Cleaning the mud out of the suppressor was a real bitch of a job, first time I've ever seen a mud-plugged can.
Zero checks are usually 1 click in a direction, more than likely environmental or shooter error. More often than not I'm altering the zero adjustment due to an ammo change, looking at going back to reloading for everything I shoot which should help this.
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