The ks getting up there now and purring along.
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The ks getting up there now and purring along.
Attachment 225226
Not unusual, the engine is out of the Nissan light truck line so built a lot heavier than automotive light vehicle engines. It runs a lot lighter loaded than the equivalent car engine, with heavier bearing surfaces for lighter bearing surface pressure. The consequence is higher bulk and vehicle weight, which has an effect on rubber components and consumable wear. I went through four sets of engine mounts in my SWB before I gave up and built the set it still has in it running fine... It's a trade off, and things like the modern Rangers and Hiluxes etc are totally different riding vehicles. I got out of a Safari and into a PXII ranger, drove Tauranga-Whangarei and got out feeling like I hadn't left. I couldn't do that in the Safari.
This beast drives like a smooth mercedes on the high way. With factory rear diff lock,she goes where I want it to go.No problem with engine mounts.Havnt touched engine in 18yrs
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The earlier mounts were better, I put the original 'tired' ones back in for the time it took to build a set that won't break. The other three failed at the adhesion of the rubber to the metal brackets of the mounts, so a design/material spec/manufacture quality issue rather than the vehicle fault.
It’s usually only the LHS engine mount that breaks, due to the way the engine torques up. Not a biggie to replace every few years…do it in your driveway with a trolley jack and lump of timber under the engine-sump. I think I have 1 in the shed if you’re after genuine Nissan one.
Yep, although with the later Nissan ones they were not much better than aftermarket for a while there. I got 6 months out of the factory set, 4 and 5 out of the two aftermarket sets (both replaced/refunded - Nissan actually ran out of mounts at that stage so couldn't supply the factory part). The set I built was made with red urethane bushes machined out of red 2" rod, and solid steel. Transferred a bit more noise and vibration at certain RPM ranges, but compared to factory virtually indestructible...
This was an import SWB non-turbo 'black top' motor that was actually a bit of a sleeper demon torque wise. It would the dyno off the scale at the local engine rebuilder fella in every gear, first time he'd seen that in a non-turbo. I never had the history on that motor, but the thing had some go - the only things that slowed it down were hills and fuel stations. It's still owned by the family and still pulling like a school boy.
Weren't the non turbo blacktops running lighter cranks to aid them spinning up a tad faster??? Was always warned to stay with the silver tops and black top factory turbos for that reason.
Got turbo checked yrs ago,puts out about 8lbs.Pretty tame but lasts a lot longer.
Proof it's a Safari/patrol is the inability to reach 100kph. Do the right thing and donate it to a museum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
I had a NA Blacktop 92 SWB NZ new Patrol and that went like a rocket ship up to 100k, took a while to get over 100kph though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve123
My patrol get to 120ks in second gear pretty quick,then you got top gear and overdrive to get her to 140ks with not much hesitation.Lock out over drive and she just loves the revs.
.Redline 4600rpm but il only take her to 4200rpm.Not very often I go there tho.
Nissan museum one day maybe,lols.
When the above Y61 tdi 4.2 model patrols were newish.They quiet easily do 160kph.
I know.;)
Yeah, that thing of mine is still perfectly happy cruising at 110 on the 'enhanced' sections of highways. Hills have it screwed as I mentioned, the Napier-Taupo had sections where you were down to 60 with it loaded. No one could pass you though - too much 'Greta repellent' out the back!
Would make sense with the lighter crank, there (as far as I can recall) some other differences to the top end, cams and valves as well. I looked at turbo fitment, the actual purchase of the turbo kit and getting it plumbed in wasn't too expensive - something like $2500 at that stage. The issue I had at that time was I needed to swap the injection pump out for the version with the vacuum advance system on it, mine didn't have it. That doubled the cost of the parts and needed a fair bit more labour time replacing the lines etc and at that stage the parts weren't readily available second hand unless you lucked into a crashed vehicle that had the right bits. This was on a vehicle that came off a farm deceased estate reg but no wof and requiring a wee bit of rust repair and sorting out. The whole thing cost me less than $2K on the road, at that time they were going for 10-12K... At that time I couldn't justify 5-1/2k on it hanging a hair dryer on the thing for the odd longer trip! Now, probably pay for itself with the price of fuel.
Here's my td42
Let me guess: that 4.2 Tdi isn't running 8lbs boost is it:oQuote:
Originally Posted by Larskramer
Should be around 30psi of boost, billet crank, forged rods j pistons, regound cam, rebuilt 12mm pum0 with injectors etc. Everything new hahaha. Hopfully she gets the first start this Thursday/ Friday. Have some more intercooler piping to weld up etc first
Love to be there when you crank her over 1st time.
Woll put a link up to a YouTube video ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
I suspect that won't drive on the planet, it'll roll the surface up underneath it!
Let me know when.:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Larskramer
My mate dyno’d this a few years ago. Viper engine shoe horned into a SWB.
The owner made his own mandrel bent exhaust system, three core radiator from memory.
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Complete sleeper, no badging, decals…..
B
V10 woow bet that could fly.Iv been in a dodge viber,man they got some serius power.
I do believe there's a YT of Jeremy Clarkson racing a Bugatti Veyron against a Nissan Patrol, and losing by quite a few seconds. Someone had shoehorned in a 2 or 3 thousand horsepower donk into the patrol....:thumbsup:
