80series heater issues

Had a problem with it in the past, bit of research and I disconnected the heater core and flushed it out. Tried that trick and it didn't work so drained everything out of the radiator and tried again, still no luck....

Just had the old girl in at the doctors for a bit of other work, they looked and discovered heater "tap" had a bit of plastic flogged out, replaced with straight bit of hose as a trail (new tap is on the way) but still not vast amounts of heat over a 30Min drive...

Any ideas folks? Discovered that whilst my one doesn't have heated seats the rear heater is "water" powered, always thought it was electric! (that works fine)

If you are getting some heat from it I would suggest that it is partly blocked again.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ROKTOY

If you are getting some heat from it I would suggest that it is partly blocked again.

---

Hmmm will have another crack at it. Would be nice to have it when it spends it (currently) lives on a ski road

Is it the push button type electronic control or is there levers you physically move connected to cables that open taps and control flaps?
If its electronic I would put money on the electronic bit being sus as they are well known for shitting out.

Electric.... But no central locking (they are bloody wife when you need to reach the other side to unlock)

Gave the heater core another flush, see what happens tomorrow. Hopefully things have sorted out

What temp is the engine running on the gauge, the thermostat my be stuck open? They usually stick closed but just a thought. Check the heater pipes on the engine as they can block up too.

Not an airlock?

I had real problems with a surf years ago that airlocked after a coolant change

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SiB

Not an airlock?

I had real problems with a surf years ago that airlocked after a coolant change

---

It is possible, cooling system has been opened up quite a few times now, would have expected the under seat heater not to work if an airlock though.... @2post temp gauge is showing where it normally is and not smelling overly warm. Though is could be thermostat, garage mentioned it when I explained the problem and nothing when I picked it up

Next thing I would check is if both heater pipes (at the bulkhead end) are hot when it's up to temp, if they are then I would assume good water flow though your heater. Then it may be a flat inside your heater box, as veitnamcam mentioned. Keep at it you'll get there!

Years drove my grandfathers HQ holden back from Dunedin to Queenstown.
He raved about his heater and and how good the heat was.
I filled the radiator up and that cooled things markedly.

Years drove my grandfathers HQ holden back from Dunedin to Queenstown.
He raved about his heater and and how good the heat was.
I filled the radiator up and that cooled things markedly.
Comment to check your thermostat could be a go.
It is winter and things will run cool this time of the year.
I rode my bike across the Desert Road last weekend both ways and the water temp that normally runs at 69c was cycling between 61-65c as it warmed and cooled.

Then it may be a flat inside your heater box.

I meant flap inside your heater box.

A few years back my old 70 series was parked in the shed for a while while I was away and when I got back the heater wasn't functioning at all well. A rat had crawled in through the heater air intake and build a nest inside the ducting blocking it up. It was a prick of a job pulling the whole heater system apart and removing the straw and rat shit ...

they fixed that in the 80 series they all came with rats pre installed and cats pre installed to catch them :redbullsmiley:

Apparently they have an arsehole too but can never see it when I drive it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SiB

Apparently they have an arsehole too but can never see it when I drive it

---

I think it's behind the steering wheel

Seems to have improved since I took @ROKTOY advice and gave it another flush. With the work it's doing at the moment (low range 40km/h ish depending on chains 700m climb) should be running hot even though it's driving through the snow!

Did you flush water both ways trough the heater core? It is surprising how much 'crap' you can dislodge/unsettle by putting a reasonable flow of water through the core the opposite way to normal

Best way to flush a core is to blow compressed air into the water hose while flushing, and do what @ROKTOY said.

Tried both ways, don't think I used enough pressure on the hose the first time round

It will be a blocked core. Flushing will help but Ive found a strong solution of citric acid filling the heater core and pipes, sitting over a week end followed by a double flush will probably sort it.

if heater hose is about 1" size rubber....you could do what we did years back with lada and find one of the stainless steel pipe squeezy thingymebobbies that were used to squeeze shut vacumn hose on cups in dairy sheds....sort of a camber lock thing....open is open and shut is shut all go or whoa but simple. it will shut off your straight pipe for summer.....wonder if water pump it self is getting dodgy so less water flow all around????

I made up a piece of copper tube with a tyre valve welded onto it, connect it up to the hoses and while flushing with water you can blow some air through, the bubbles will eventually dislodge the blockages. If you have access to an air compressor I can send it up to you to give it a go. I have cleared some very blocked radiators in my time. If you are keen to give it a go P.M. me. James.

Cheers for the ideas guys, the valve got flogged out the plastic bit so new one coming, currently got a straight pipe through so running full hot the whole time. Seems to have improved but will try the citrus acid idea

I have just replaced the heater tap in my 40 series.
Never used to shut off properly.
But now the heater works a bit better too.
Mind you replaced a few hoses too.

Feeling the temp difference between the in and out hoses on the core will tell you if it's blocked or not.
If it's blocked take it to a specialist so they can wip the top off it and clean it out (if it is a serviceable one) - for the amount it would cost you would save with all the time your spending mucking around with it
Be careful about acid etc that you put it, had a guy in the other day that put something in his cooling system and failed to flush it all out now it's eaten the rubber seals in his head gasket lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

my 2.8 Pajero heater never worked that well. Flaps in the cab worked, hoses felt warm but never pushed out the heat.
I had over heating issues/niggles and did the citric acid thing a couple of times to see if the radiator or cooling circuit would come good. Never did and eventually did the head gasket.
Had the head planed and pressure checked and it seems ok even though I was told they can still sometimes still be faulty.
There where two blocked small coolant holes on the face of the head. Don't know what they were but they were were crudded up. I picked them out before it was skimmed.
It was the end of summer when I did the head so don't know if the heater got better from the citric acid flush or from the head work but I do know that the heater works very well now.
That citric acid flush is well worth a try