Thread: Anyone ever repaired a rusty motorcycle tank (Interior) ?

I am giving my pride and joy a bi of a refurb. It has been having fuel starvation issues and it was tracked back to corrosion from the inside of the tank blocking the fuel filter. Filter replaced, and carbs stripped and cleaned cleaned. Now all I need to do is re line the inside of the tank so the problem is fixed rather than band aid it by changing the filter.

The tank I need to do is a small 3 litre sub tank that is under the seat as the main tank was done a few years back when I had it repainted.

There are kits available or cleaning and preserving fuel tanks. Check online.

Originally Posted by timattalon

I am giving my pride and joy a bi of a refurb. It has been having fuel starvation issues and it was tracked back to corrosion from the inside of the tank blocking the fuel filter. Filter replaced, and carbs stripped and cleaned cleaned. Now all I need to do is re line the inside of the tank so the problem is fixed rather than band aid it by changing the filter.

The tank I need to do is a small 3 litre sub tank that is under the seat as the main tank was done a few years back when I had it repainted.

I've just done a 6 litre steel Harley tank. Depending on the severity of the rust, you could fill it with white vinegar and leave for a few days, shaking occasionally. I've also used a few handfuls of gravel through the filler cap and given it a robust shaking and a thorough rinsing thereafter. Works for me and costs nothing. Resealing would be optional depending on the finish left in the tank.

Have done it by using gravel to loosen any rust. Then got a kit from Rotorua fiberglass especially formulated for the job ($24) and job done brilliant.

Originally Posted by outlander

I've just done a 6 litre steel Harley tank. Depending on the severity of the rust, you could fill it with white vinegar and leave for a few days, shaking occasionally. I've also used a few handfuls of gravel through the filler cap and given it a robust shaking and a thorough rinsing thereafter. Works for me and costs nothing. Resealing would be optional depending on the finish left in the tank.

Don't know a lot about Harleys but that wouldn't get you far would it?

A small-medium galv-chain works well for scouring-out the rust. Any "liner" has to be fastidiously applied (think Don-Brash -anal) to eliminate thin-spots of liner. Overdo any/all the instructions and especially the scouring. You only get one-shot at doing it properly most of the time

In the distant past, I just scoured out the surface rust (after having left the tank without fuel and the top off) with small nuts and bolts. I never had a return problem with rust, probably because the tank had fuel and fuel vapour inside it. I thought about a coating but the coatings for the inside of the fuel tank had a reputation for flaking off and blocking the carb jets (good for selling but not for using). What about using phosphoric acid wash to leave a rust resistant layer on the steel of the tank. It does a good job on car bodies and it will not block carb/injector jets.

Por is one treatment, never used it but I think it comes in a kit with a product to remove the rust and and another to coat the inside after descaling.

Originally Posted by Shearer

Don't know a lot about Harleys but that wouldn't get you far would it?

It's a 1976 XLCH. Kick start only and with it's original peanut steel tank...100 km or there abouts.

Originally Posted by outlander

I've just done a 6 litre steel Harley tank. Depending on the severity of the rust, you could fill it with white vinegar and leave for a few days, shaking occasionally. I've also used a few handfuls of gravel through the filler cap and given it a robust shaking and a thorough rinsing thereafter. Works for me and costs nothing. Resealing would be optional depending on the finish left in the tank.

My issue is it is the underseat auxiliary tank and has three openings, a 10mm hose fitting, and a 5mm Hose fitting for the intake and a 5m hose fitting for the outflow. So this means whatever I use it will need to be able to be removed, and will need to be liquid as I do not think anything slid will be able to be extracted.

Workmate had a leaky seam and rust inside his Z1000 tank.

He got a POR15 kit and followed the instructions to the letter.

I was sceptical to say the least but it did the job and still going strong 3 years later no leaks no rust.

Basically its liquid like paint pour in, swish around, pour out, let cure. So no problems with multi in/outlets.

https://www.por.co.nz/products/motor...ank-repair-kit

Would I use it on mine ---- Definitely

I used the POR 15 product on a 1968 Chrysler fuel tank some 4 years ago - you can't go buy a new one of those in NZ LOL. I followed the instructions to the letter and it sealed all the pinholes - made it safe to use again and the fuel gauge now also works as the sender unit it as tight as it should be. The tanks has never leaked again - shows no signs of weeping anywhere. I would use the stuff again in a flash - good stuff!
BUT - I did follow the instructions to the letter - didn't miss any steps or shorten any times they recommended. Its a bit slow waiting for some curing yet it WORKS.

Originally Posted by timattalon

My issue is it is the underseat auxiliary tank and has three openings, a 10mm hose fitting, and a 5mm Hose fitting for the intake and a 5m hose fitting for the outflow. So this means whatever I use it will need to be able to be removed, and will need to be liquid as I do not think anything slid will be able to be extracted.

Attachment 118841

What about "steel-shot"...and if you knew someone at a paint-store....mechanical-shaker would do a great job....o/wise, ear-plugs and a sub-title movie...or a lot of 'dancing'

Originally Posted by rewa

What about "steel-shot"...and if you knew someone at a paint-store....mechanical-shaker would do a great job....o/wise, ear-plugs and a sub-title movie...or a lot of 'dancing'

I suggested this to my brother (has done something like this too...) I had some steel bearings about the size of oo Buckshot. He suggested that it needed to be "not round" the shape should have an abrasive shape like a stone or nuts....so small nuts it is......