I have a 2004 Hilux with two dim candles for headlights.
Are there any easy upgrades to allow me to actually see in the dark without compromising my ability to get a WOF?
Bulb upgrades, LED etc?
Printable View
I have a 2004 Hilux with two dim candles for headlights.
Are there any easy upgrades to allow me to actually see in the dark without compromising my ability to get a WOF?
Bulb upgrades, LED etc?
clean your lights and measure the voltage at the bulbs before doing anything. there are bulb upgrades but converting to LED is an issue as the focal point of the LED stack isnt a nice filament and will alter the beam pattern
I recently replaced the reserve bulbs in my 80series, wish I'd done it years ago, got a shock they were $35-40 iirc
Have you got sealed beams or semi sealed
All led bulbs are a no go, even tho some do produce a good beam
Yet to see a legal led unit as most claim to be
https://www.trademe.co.nz/trade-me-m...3723827403.htm
I just put a set of these in my 2003 hilux, made a big difference. Don’t get me wrong, still doesn’t make them like a modern led headlight but it was a big improvement.
First I brought a cheap set of “90/100watt ultra bright” Chinese crap, don’t bother, it was like someone blew one of my candles out!
Headlight doctor to clean the outside will also help.
Rectangular 190 x 125mm(ish) semi sealed.Quote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
One headlight has a cracked lens so I’m thinking about options to sort the woefully inadequate lighting. It sounds like a replacement unit and a bulb upgrade are ones only options.
Add a pair of LED 'driving lights' switched off the high beam, and a set of 'work lights' or a light bar for when you are off road helps but it doesn't sort the issue of being on rural roads with a reasonable amount of oncoming traffic and being on dip the entire time. With some of the utes it feels like you are trying to look through two toilet rolls, bloody shocking. The earlier versions of the PX ranger had quite good spread of light, then the PX3 rolled out with really narrow headlights and they were in a word total and utter crap. The latest version seems to have gone to a taller headlight for more vertical reflector surface - it might not look as 'cool' in town around all the urban euro handbag cars but at least the damn things work in the rural road environment. Almost need two versions of fronts on cars these days - the one for people that actually drive them and the front for those that want something that looks mean as in the mall carpark.
Lights on my 2017 ranger are worse than my 25yr old bt50 were.
$100 set of led driving lights....my set has one flood and one spot..the spot is on right and points to white sideline 50 yards ahead..... still get the odd flash light towards me but not many....its much more friendly towards oncoming traffic than most ford rangers or Dmaxs.... in my little four door car the bright leds up high are dazzling to say the least and even worse when they are behind me....
Can get a few good h4 bulbs nowadays or run a decent led bulb from the likes of narva not some Ali special and swap out for wofsQuote:
Originally Posted by Hayden C
just dont use the hibeam wiring to also power the spotlights, or you may damage the original wiring of the ute.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
Interesting thread. I have a 2011 Hilux ( bought it a couple of years ago with 6000km on the clock. As new. Only beef is the lights. I put a set of ARB driving lights on it which work when switched on on high beam. Good for open country work although they are that good that road signs become unbearable and when you switch them off for some seconds you think you don’t have lights going at all.
I would still like to improve the std lights but told that you cannot upgrade to later style bulbs ( LED) as you won’t get a warrant. Any one faced this when upgrading?
Attachment 204828
that hilux already has little driving lights down low.....see if you can tweak the bulbs in them....might be a whole lot more simple fix....and give you good visibility on low beam....
The 2011 hilux loves 100/90 bulbs in the main headlights
Problem solved
Yeah, upscale the fog spots and see how that helps. It doesn't take a huge increase of light on a flood beam to make quite a difference where you need it in front of the car. Also upgrade bulbs will make a difference in terms of dip beam, although with the ARB bat burners fitted everything is going to look like brown shite.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Exactry. I was really dissapointed with those, my 2013 PX2 outperformed the 2018 PX3 with near every bloody upgrade fitted (not including the aftermarket LED driving lights which I think were ARB as well...).Quote:
Originally Posted by The bomb
Have a look at
https://www.stedi.com.au/
I have a VW Ute and after coming from a cars with HID or LED lights it was painful.
Was also told that the LED bulbs available for the ute would lead to a failed WOF.
I went down a light bar bar track as Stedi list a bars and instalation kit for the vw ute. Wired to tap into the High beam circuit with an off switch by the shifted to lock it off.
In hind sight the 31.5" is almost too powerfull and 21.5" May have been a better option. Have to dip my lights for road signs, too much reflection.
Then when on dip it's like driving in the dark. I still need to improve the dip beam power.
nb, STEDI do a light bar with a CE cert that is legal in aussie, not sure about NZ.
Z
Great advice thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
True hadn’t considered that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
First time I drove with the ARB lights and flicked them off as you say it as if you have all other lights off. Road sign reflection is a pain hence they are really best on less driven remote roads. I have one flood and one beam. Works well.Quote:
Originally Posted by ZQLewis
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZQLewis
In theory you could fit those emark light bars to a vehicle and have it be w.o.f. legal. They would be effectively be considered a second pair of main-beam headlamps, so would need to be fitted as a pair and symmetrically mounted as close to the sides of the vehicle as practicable, as well as meeting the aim and switching requirements of main-beam lamps. In practice, I think the 13.5" would be the only one that you could get away with.
The first thing I would do is by a wiring harness for you head lights that goes straight from the battery to the headlights that has its own relays. This will ensure good power supply plenty of plug and play options. Don't use 90/100 they produce to much heat and can melt the polycarbonate lenses. The narva 120 or 150 plus are good. If the lenses are yellow or mercy get a bit of cut and polish and clean the headlights. If you replace the complete headlight for leds make sure they are e marked hope this helps
