Economics of old trucks vs new trucks

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Originally Posted by Mauser308

I'll point out as well, the Navara's ZD30 isn't that bad (the version out of the pathfinder with the smaller sump is a dog) - but to keep it 'not bad' a few things need to be done to it and the first is remove and clean the intake manifold of the puke crap that comes out of the EGR and the crank case breather systems. When you bolt the manifold back on, 'forget' to connect up the crank case breather in favour of an easily serviced puke tank, and with the EGR a solid stainless plate cures a lot of design sins on this engine. The other main one is tricking the half-arsed engine management system into thinking all is well while you take over manual control of the turbo wastegate and boost controllers. Fitting a decent intercooler at this time helps no end as well.

Of course, the other option is sourcing a direct-injection BD30 that isn't flogged but that's not that easily done in NZ. The D22 Navara is one of the most capable 4x4 chassis out of all the ute's, although the torsion bar front end suspension lets it down a bit.

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@Mauser308 is spot on, the ZD30 Common Rail engines are far more reliable than the older DI's. I have a 2014 Nissan Patrol with the ZD30CR motor, I bought it at 70,000k's and did the above; Blocked EGR, Ran a hose from crankcase to the chassis rail, Fitted manual boost controller, 3" exhaust and got an ECU Remap from Australia (good bye limp mode and hello 20psi)... Good lord the thing goes well now. I prefer it over the TD42+t I owned before, far more grunt with the ZD30 and it tows better.

Also the big problem with the ZD30 DIs was the glow plugs ran until the motor hit 80degC meaning the head would crack between the plug "hole" and valves causing them to blow.

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Que?? I should think not...

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They absolutely are more reliable than the ZD30DI's :)

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Were you boosting your TD with 20psi? And had you upped the injector plunger to fuel harder?

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no, TD42+t was running 12psi with adjusted fuel pump and Turbo injectors.

$ for $ the ZD30CR are far better performers. You don't have to take it from me, jump on facebook and look up ZD30 pages.

Also read up on the warranty fine print,
Most only state that there filters must be used, ( even tho they have Made in China on them)so you can supply your own oil (as long as it’s up to the spec)
Fit a catch tank , extra fuel filter if you want,
And away ya go

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Originally Posted by 223nut

Crap, anyone gotten more than this off an auto? My 80series had transmission serviced 2years ago and they didnt mention anything horrendous and that would have been around 340km when it got done

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It will easy do 700thou if serviced.

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Originally Posted by 223nut

Yeah, its a Mitsubishi.... ! Also have a 95 landcruiser 80series, has 360 on it. Plenty of bumps and scratches and still getting wof but repairs are getting up there, cvs brakes transmission etc. Looking back i should have brought another 2 80series for parts and not bothered with the new triton

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

My 80 series land cruiser cost me more to own for 2 or 3 years than a brand new Triton cost me and the Triton is still worth x amount so definitely winning on that one.

If you can get lucky and keep getting good second hand and move em on before they need anything major you can do alright but I am not lucky.

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The 80's were very high maintenance. I looked at buying one a couple of times and all the ads listed the same things that had just been replaced. So many of them just chewed out the transmission system, and the older model kept chewing out bearings in the engine. I went for a Safari in the end and maintenance on that over 15 years (other than me drowning the engine) was about $250/pa on lubes, a couple of window regulators, the usual tyres when they wore out and replacing the drag link arm.

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Originally Posted by 223nut

Yeah, its a Mitsubishi.... ! Also have a 95 landcruiser 80series, has 360 on it. Plenty of bumps and scratches and still getting wof but repairs are getting up there, cvs brakes transmission etc. Looking back i should have brought another 2 80series for parts and not bothered with the new triton

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Originally Posted by Tertle

@mudgripz (and yes will give you a call) I think you might be able to add some constructive comments here, as I’m rather biased in my assessment of new verses old trucks, I would never buy new, I would only ever buy a certain make and model with a certain engine, Yes I forgo some pleasures of new, but I certainly make up for it with the engine capability and other areas!

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Yeah, I replaced about $1000 of parts on mine (clutch, turbo) when I bought it a bit over 5 years ago. Maintenance since then has been a set of brake pads, timing belt, water pump (while there), alternator belts and lubes.

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Originally Posted by gadgetman

The 80's were very high maintenance. I looked at buying one a couple of times and all the ads listed the same things that had just been replaced. So many of them just chewed out the transmission system, and the older model kept chewing out bearings in the engine. I went for a Safari in the end and maintenance on that over 15 years (other than me drowning the engine) was about $250/pa on lubes, a couple of window regulators, the usual tyres when they wore out and replacing the drag link arm.

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Yep. The diffs are weak, brakes are woeful, manuals shit themselves but the autos last forever,12 valve turbos shit big ends and crack pistons and heads but the no turbo goes forever....which is good cos they take forever to go anywhere [emoji3]
Its a shame cos mine was very capable off road, very highly speced compared to other vehicles of the era and very nice to drive on road.
Its just it was unreliable and every bloody part on it had landcruiser tax on it....same part on a hilux would be less than half dollars usually and sometimes not even a tenth of the cost.
Second hand front diff was 2.5 k FFS.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Yep. The diffs are weak, brakes are woeful, manuals shit themselves but the autos last forever,12 valve turbos shit big ends and crack pistons and heads but the no turbo goes forever....which is good cos they take forever to go anywhere [emoji3]
Its a shame cos mine was very capable off road, very highly speced compared to other vehicles of the era and very nice to drive on road.
Its just it was unreliable and every bloody part on it had landcruiser tax on it....same part on a hilux would be less than half dollars usually and sometimes not even a tenth of the cost.
Second hand front diff was 2.5 k FFS.

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I replaced my entire TD42 for $1625 including freight for one with only 118,000km on the clock. The transmission system was insanely tough. Lacked a bit of power (kiwi understatement), ground clearance and turning circle.

Have a mate who brought a new cheap ute, price the same as "good" second hand ute. Now 4 years old 90,000 km out of warranty, failed WOF. Every bush, shocks and half the ball joints failed. I have a old wagon for hunting etc, costs me far less to run and maintain than the new utes I owned and sold after 3-4 years which on average depreciated approx $4000 a year plus servicing. OK when you can claim back against the farm or business but not logical for a hunting come runaround.

I have always been interested in a mid to late 90's SWB Patrol (purely because its a slightly longer but still SWB) should the Mitsi Paj poo itself totally.
Are that a good reliable runner or should I run away !!

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Yep. The diffs are weak, brakes are woeful, manuals shit themselves but the autos last forever,12 valve turbos shit big ends and crack pistons and heads but the no turbo goes forever....which is good cos they take forever to go anywhere [emoji3]
Its a shame cos mine was very capable off road, very highly speced compared to other vehicles of the era and very nice to drive on road.
Its just it was unreliable and every bloody part on it had landcruiser tax on it....same part on a hilux would be less than half dollars usually and sometimes not even a tenth of the cost.
Second hand front diff was 2.5 k FFS.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk

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Heck Cam thats full on chrome Molly prices

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Originally Posted by BRADS

Heck Cam thats full on chrome Molly prices

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Factory electric locking front diffs are hens teeth unfortunately.

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Factory electric locking front diffs are hens teeth unfortunately.

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Argh that makes more sense
I just fully rebuilt the 80 series in the rally truck with hydro locker for 1k

Good thread. I was thinking of getting a 2l Suzuki Vitara next as I Don't have the aptitude to decipher a good older diesel.
All this talk of fuel pump failures, shot injectors, shit transmission coolers and cracked heads have me flummoxed.
I like the previous model pajero but thought they may have become cheaper with the new challenger based one out

If you’re going to buy an old truck, buy a petrol.

Hands down the best option is a 1GR-FE V6 4.0 engined Prado, or even better for NZ use, the rare but findable Hilux with the same engine.

The old school high compression turbo diesels with 400,000km plus the extra couple of hundred thousand you don’t know about? Fuck that.

If like me you’ve lived a while in Aus and used the 1GR in a variety of vehicles, and have access to the fleet data for a hundred or so more, you’ll know why I’m talking it up. One of the better examples of their ruggedness were the railway company vehicles - Prados mostly - used to check the lines day in day out in QLD, NT, WA. They didn’t buy the diesel variant of these vehicles for a reason. If I told you the mileage these vehicles wracked up in three years you wouldn’t believe me. And only about 5% of those kilometres were on the black top, the rest rough as railway tracks.

Feel free to throw stones, but I’m right!