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Gear box issues and fixes. ( Auto's)
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https://youtu.be/j_nh-_xBYDo
Gear box issues and fixes. ( Auto's)
That'd be why I got the manual... And crosses fingers for the dual mass flywheel!
Didn't the manuals have issues with soft output shafts?
Sure did
Certain year range apparently, which I don't think mine is. But you never know with Ford in general...
As far as the auto's - they were a disappointment with regard to longevity as some are still working fine after 300,000Km and some died really young. Its a weird one, considering how many of the vehicles are out there including the BT50 which is virtually identical there aren't seeing a huge number coming back in with gearbox issues. Injector/injection pump, electrical gremlins, EGR cooler and coolant system issues and a few others seem to appear higher on the list of clusterflucks Ford.
That might be beacuse of the typical type of Ranger driver vs the typical BT-50 driver hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by No.3
Interesting that he said that most of the damage is done to over heating because the gearbox 'thermostat' isnt opening properly and not letting the oil thru to the cooler. I would fit the biggest oil cooler I could to the things. (not that I would ever own one. Im not a Ford man)
Fitting a big-arse cooler is a good idea with any auto especially if towing and/or off-roading.Quote:
Originally Posted by tac a1
You have to be careful doing that. I've heard of guys doing this and then the bloody thing won't change into top gear because the ATF isn't warm enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnwolf
Thats why a use a manual for towing. Not a fan of autos for doing the hard yards.
My thoughts as well but not for the same reason you list - I much prefer the direct drive and being able to control what cog. Nothing worse than a hunting tranny...Quote:
Originally Posted by tac a1
If the trans isn't coming up to temp it isn't the cooler's fault, there is a mechanical fault in the thermostat/sensor system that will result in damage of some form somewhere. The autos are getting better, but even 10 years ago weren't perfect. The new ones are a lot more robust from what I hear though.
Wounder if you can fit the new 10speed under if the 6 pops. I got the 10speed and very smooth
I wouldnt even bother. Im not a fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by 199p
Best Ute I’ve owned, after two Holdens, the 5cylinder Motor makes some strange noises anyway
You definitely come across as someone who is stuck in there ways so i am not surprised. But the question really wasn't aimed towards you :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tac a1
Edit to add is it the 10 speed your not a fan of or just fords? not sure if they make it in house.
No, I'm not a Ford man. Never have been since I had to work on the things way back when. Just the build quality of them was rubbish.Quote:
Originally Posted by 199p
I much prefer Toyota's. I've got a 70 series V8, which I think is agricultural, but fantastic for towing, which is what it was brought for.
Don't get me wrong some people have a great run out of their Ford's. Lots of people seem to have serious issues though from what I hear and see.
Set in my ways?? Maybe, but I just know what I like and what works for me.
Haha, worst run out of a brand of utes I've been involved with was Hiluxes. Broken tailshafts, broken transmissions, blown diffs, injector/fuel, literally wore an engine out in under 110,00Km (wore it out literally, buggered). That's all with brand new or leased units, dealer serviced. I honestly do not think it matters what colour, flavour or country the things are made in - deal with enough of them and they'll fall apart on you. Use em hard and they'll die young. Build quality - jeez one of the worst interiors in the utes I've been in are the Nissans, followed by Toyota and Ford. Caution, bits might fall off...
Found
On
Rubbish
Dump
:P
Doesn’t matter what brand of vehicle they all have a shit model or production run within a model line. Least ways that’s what I’ve noticed since starting as a mechanic late 70’s and my predecessors said the same.
My experience with vehicles is .. brand loyalty or dealer loyalty is not a flash idea. I had always purchased Toyotas from a local dealer, I rock up to buy a brand new ute thinking he will be giving me the best deal as I always shop here. Bugger me I go to trade a 2.5 yr ute in and I think this isnt a flash price for the trade in as I had had a look on Trade me. Sold it to a mate for quite a few thousand dollars more and he said I ripped you off on that truck as it was worth way more.. I got way more for it than the dealer was going to give me but I also knew he had got a good deal . Last few trucks have been Rangers but I went to the local dealer the other day and I will be looking around at different brands and also looking out of Chch this year for sure.
Got to do what works for you man, I would never go back to towing or off roading with a manual box the auto's rule for both.Quote:
Originally Posted by tac a1
The old manual v auto towing debate.
10 years ago I was firmly in the manual camp. If using an older Cruiser or Nissan etc, or up to about 2010 ute of any brand then I still would be. However, auto's have come a long way with way better engine breaking and reliability. Choosing now would come down to other features the vehicle had and probably not the transmission.
Agree, although one thing that really affects things is the cooling ability for auto's. Some auto's are crap even with an uprated cooler - this is one of the main culprits with the Ranger auto issue I think. The newer common rail diesels suffer from a distinct lack of engine braking across the board, I have often thought a simple bolt on electromagnetic retarder kit coming with a shortened rear driveshaft would be a bloody good thing at 3500Kg towing. The TB-class electric brakes are good, but not as good in some ways as the hydraulic override couplings that on a downhill natively apply the brakes on the trailer as it leans on the towing vehicle and starts to push. TB-class you almost need to wind the proportioning controller back, rest your foot on the brake pedal and have the brakes on the trailer riding while the towing vehicle is coasting under engine retarding. Not easy to do with some of the electric systems, not set up to do that (brakes either on or off...).Quote:
Originally Posted by Got-ya
The other thing that used to be good with the 4x4's is being able to leave the front hubs disengaged and going to 4L when backing or moving the trailer in tight areas. Real handy. I asked about an interrupt switch for the PX series rangers just isolating the front diff servo, seems with CANBus that idea isn't a starter as the computer is looking for a feedback signal from the servo and if it doesn't get it with 4wd selected it goes into panic mode like a true hypochondriac.