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I have a bit of a funny dead spot to the left of centre in my ute, turn right and it feels tight and responds instantly, turn left and there's 30 degrees of nothing before it does anything. Have had an alignment done and no real difference. It's been lifted 2 inches, diff moved forward 30mm, and I have an adjustable torque rod and drop drag link with adjustable ends for length. Any ideas?
Have you tried getting someone to turn the wheel back and forward while you have a look at all the steering joints etc to check for play?
Other option may be needing to adjust the preload in the steering box. When I first got my safari it was super vague and wandery in the steering, but a bit of careful adjustment to the preload screw and it became very direct. You will just have to be careful not to over-tighten, as going too far can cause it to bind the steering under specific situations.
My guess would be that your dead spot is where the centre of the steering box would have been before the lift. (measuring turn lock-to-lock should tell you if this is the case)
Possibly the preload as above could help here, or adjusting your drag link to get it centered up.
Another area where play can develop is your drag link, the cups inside wear. they can be adjusted.
worn ball joints? These wouldn't give you 30mm of play unless absolutely knackered.
The lift will have affected your caster too so any play in the steering will be exaggerated and more noticeable. A wheel alignment if done to factory specs can sometimes make the steering worse on a lift vehicle due to the altered caster, but 2 inches should have negligible affect IMO.
Start as StrikerNZ says and get someone on the wheel as you check for play in moving parts,
Can't adjust caster on a leaf spring solid axle (except with wedges) and I have about 1 degree more positive caster than spec which should improve tracking etc if anything. The drag link is pretty new so I don't think it's wear in the drag link ends but I will check for play. It's been like this since I did the mods, I'm just starting to get sick of it as it gets quite noticeable on long road trips.
I suspected that it's the centre of the box which currently doesn't line up with having the wheels centred and have tried to line that up previously in the driveway without much noticeable change, I will have to have another go.
I also suspect it may be due to the way the cups/springs are installed in the drag link, if they're both set up identically I think there would be spring tension when turning one way but not the other - e.g. pushing against both springs turning left and just against the hard screw in caps when turning right. I have cranked them very tight previously to test this and it did seem to make a difference - but does anyone see any dramas with installing the spring/cups in one ends the other way around?
https://cdn.onlineautoparts.com.au/i...26775f2b59.jpg
e.g. see how the springs are opposed? I don't think they are in the aftermarket drag link.
Adjust them in till all play is gone then just back off to the first available locking position.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk
I went through a lot of money and time trying to get my old 1996 Lux’s steering up to scratch.
In the end it was the steering box that made the biggest improvement.
My old girl has done 360,000km and a reconditioned box was money well spent.
Got to love the old leaf sprung solid front axle luxury’s , they were the last of the real Hilux’s , it was a sad day in 1997 when the IFS rolled off the production line for the first time .
springs opposed would make more senseQuote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Check for up and down play in your pitman arm, the tie rods will be pointing down at the wheel end now you’ve lifted it. Any play in the pitman or even the steering box end will be amplified with the tie rods pushing up and down rather than side ways. Hope that makes sense.
Could be the idler arm wearing too. Get underneath and have a look at what's actually going on
@gimpQuote:
Originally Posted by ROKTOY
The springs are not there as a working part, they are only there to take up the minimal slack between split pin positions.
DO UP TILL TIGHT THEN BACK OFF TILL FIRST AVAILABLE LOCKING POSITION!
Roger. Will try that first.
I have been under there before posting this and nothing "felt" loose, all parts are either new or in good condition.
swap it for a hiace.
Yep nothing will "feel loose" as held under spring tension.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
The default handling of lifted LN106(where everything is in good condition and adjusted correctly) is to be less direct or a bit vague when turning right as body roll affects the drag link angle in effect lifting the right side of the vehicle. If everything is good/adjusted correctly it should turn left better/more direct if any difference is perceptible.
Get someone to wiggle the wheel while you're under there, engine running and off. Wheels on the ground.
Well I tightened the living shit out of the drag link ends and it makes no difference; I did however count turns from centre to lock and it's 2.5 left and 2 right, so it appears that I need to adjust the drag link to centre the box.
Centred the steering box, had to wait for a puller to arrive in the post so I could centre the wheel again, problem all solved. Still got a bloody clunk underneath somewhere, maybe front tailshaft bottoming out, going to remove it temporarily and see if that gets rid of it
If that fails, it might be something like your engine, gearbox, or body mounts.
Body mount bushings often compress over time, leaving a little bit of slack that can cause a bit of clunking mainly under accel and braking. Can sort the noise easily enough by cutting a rubber washer out of a thick inner tube or the like, undoing the nut underneath, slip the rubber washer on (or two), then crank it tight again. Probably not workshop approved, but it stops the noise..
@gimp can you chuck a photo of your ride?
I miss my 106...
It's a bit of a work in progress
https://i.imgur.com/EbnElkJ.jpg
That looks like a nice spot.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Check the hanger bearing
That is a nice spot.Attachment 118888Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Bench seat up front?
Shortest in the middle....Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
Clunk was the front spring eye hitting the chassis, bushing for the shackle pin worn and the aftermarket springs have very little clearance above the spring eye, about 1mm. I am now delightfully clunk free and steering straight
Bushes are only a couple of months old but the rubber flogged out quite quickly, and the aftermarket springs have very large eyes around the fixed pin. Replaced with poly bushings so hopefully they last longer
