Fj40 here 1974
Failed warrant on brake imbalance. Is this an easy fix and does anyone want to fix it for me or suggest someone to do it? Obviously I’m a paying customer
Ignore the other fails, easy fix’s
Attachment 250039
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Fj40 here 1974
Failed warrant on brake imbalance. Is this an easy fix and does anyone want to fix it for me or suggest someone to do it? Obviously I’m a paying customer
Ignore the other fails, easy fix’s
Attachment 250039
But it's the opposite to the front brake imbalance - they should even themselves out haha. In all seriousness, if the drums and shoes are all serviceable most likely it's only a couple of flicks with the adjustment thimble to even them out. Can do it yourself easy as if you are happy doing all of the other stuff...
Had this on my ranger a few years back. Had the drums skimmed and new pads which sorted it.
The rear imbalance will not be just an adjustment. Possibilities are: Seized / leaking wheel cylinder, worn out brake linings/oil on the linings due to failed axle seal. Remove both rear drums and have a look. All will be revealed. Give the job to someone who has experience at this. Would offer to help but wrong Island sorry.
Well to be fair, there are a couple of other frequent visitors that can cause this issue as well. But you're right, a look at the rear drums should give an indication. I'd try the simplest approach first though on the off chance it is adjustment. If the vehicle is only irregularly used it could even be due to corrosion causing the imbalance. I used to have this on one vehicle I had where I used to have to click the handbrake on a few notches on the last block before arriving at the test station to get a bit of heat in. For some reason the left side was never even when it was cold and it didn't matter what was done to it. Had a rebuilt cylinder, machined drum, new matched shoes on each side, bled and physically cleared the lines - nothing 'fixed' it apart from testing with heat on it.
Before I did anything, I'd take it for a drive and give the brakes a proper hiding, then take it straight in for the recheck
Yes driven irregularly… brakes feel fine, compared to the no power steering the brakes actually feel really good…
Im not really confident adjusting things myself, and wouldn’t really no what I’m looking at if something wasn’t horrendously obvious, at which time I would probably need to take it to someone anyway.
Thanks for the suggestions to date and if anyone has someone in Christchurch that they recommend let me know
Try the adjustment.
Nothing to loose and might be all you need.
Mate was helping me do mine driving up and own the road outside home leap on the picks ,give it an adjustment, repeat.
Next minute 3 of the neighbours were queued up behind us with grins or WTF looks on their faces.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9c2740dc92.jpg
Use motortech new brighton Chris good guy and doesn't try it on at all
If on inspections everything seems fine and nothing obvious is wrong chuck the rear axle on jack stands and outside obviously so if it falls off your all good toQuote:
Originally Posted by PerazziSC3
stop run, it up in 1st, or 2nd and watch the rear wheels in the wing mirrors and apply the brakes slowly and see how much pedal it take for each wheels to stop turning
if it is pretty bad as the imbalance sheet shows could be proportion valve if fitted to the 74 fj. Its one of those things that and visual inspection should show up a clue or 2
rear drums skimmed and new pads - still bad then wheel cylinders, still bad then check houses/hard lines and fluid condition all good then proportion valve, still no good, master cylinder recondition
pretty simple system not to many moving parts and anything that does gets replaced with new parts its good for the next 10 odd years so always that but might just have to take it too your nearest
brake specialist its right in their warehouse if you cant find any good buggers on here. I would come and have a look and try afew things but this week have a cambelt, water pump, trans flush, filters
diff fluids etc to do and new clutch and master cylinder on my cheap focus run around so could come have a look for ya next week wouldnt charge you anything if i cant fix it/improve it obviously other
then 30$ for diesel to get back home ;)
Not a mechanic just done all my own automotive work for the last 20 years timing belts,chains, new cylinders heads etc
Yep , v8 swap time
Or Tesla swap :yaeh am not durnk:
It would be more reliable thenQuote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
repent you heathen !Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
Have an old Nissan which travels mainly on metal roads, usually cop rear brake imbalance for warrant. Good cleanout with compressed air and a bit of brake use before recheck always sort.
nigel @ mobile brakes
0212966952
bloody good guy
You could try Brett at Undercar on Hayton Road, they do all that drum brake shit day in day out. We get our work stuff done there, relines & skims.
Not a seized piston on the left rear? Note that that tyre is half the tread depth of the other side, were they fitted as a pair?
That’s a good point… the tyres were before my time but appear to be a matching setQuote:
Originally Posted by Tommy
I've seen the left rear tyre wearing at at higher rate than the right rear before, normally in conjunction with chopping the inside of the front left. I've put it down to travelling on rural heavily cambered roads where there isnt a mechanical issue causing it. I would have thought if it was a seized cylinder the opposite tyre would show the wear though, especially with an open diff??? Dunno, be interesting to find out if that is the case.
Cruisers have a mongrel rear drum brake setup, I’d go full tit in revers and rip handbrake on or stomp on brakes a few times, that will reseat them in position properly, then adjust them up to tire and 3 clicks off. Then try them out. Failing that I’d take drums off and have a look. That’s the easiest quickest way. They have a funny leading and trailing setup in them, and if use hand brake ib 4wd tends to pull shoes out of balance. If i was close I’d do it for you. Redone so many brakes on them it’d be done within a stubby per side. Cool model cruiser you got too
Mate, pretty sure ripping the handbrake on is not a good idea. I could be wrong but these could run a separate drum off the drive shaft for park brake, like Nissan Safari & Landrover...Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie
Careful, you might end up drinking the rest of the slab trying to figure out why that hasn’t worked… The early 70s FJ40 next door to me has the handbrake on the drive shaft behind the transfer case. All that zooming around in reverse isn’t going to help much!Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie
Had the mobile brake guy around, sounds like he made some adjustments. Just need to take it in for recheck
nigel?Quote:
Originally Posted by PerazziSC3
Let us know how you got on once recheck done :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by PerazziSC3
Yeah, the bloody Cardan shaft brake. Prick of an idea, had the WoF man up about slapping one of my Safari's around by testing it on their brake machine. Found out he wrote one off the next day doing the exact same thing, slow learner. Bloody expensive repair as I understand it, wrote off the driveshaft! That park brake setup is only to be used when stationary or in an emergency situation, not a great design to be brutally honest.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyblown
Correct. You should see how they go on small trucks when loaded.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
Utterly useless and unreliable.
And yet the NZTA expects the truck ones to be tested on the brake rollers nowQuote:
Originally Posted by tac a1
Well I guess in their defence, if they fark them on the brake machine it is likely that they wouldn't have worked when needed. The weakness as it is (although you are relying on one drum, with two shoes rather than on the wheels with four shoes and two drums which is 50% more redundancy) is in the driveshaft and pinions - that's where the failures seem to happen with them. The driveshaft either unwinds itself with the sudden shift from load side to unload (it was explained to me as similar to trying to grab reverse at 30Km/H and slowly releasing the clutch) which causes the pinions to flop about. If there is any wear and play the things take a hate to you most ricky ticky.Quote:
Originally Posted by makka
Sorry mate, didn’t realise yu still had the driveshaft park brake setup. I thought you had drum mounted set up from the imbalance part. Ignore my post. Them driveshaft cardan setups are crap, and deadly, same as the stupid telmar brake system they use on some euro trucks. I have a few horror stories from their failures.
Telmar's are only a retarder, not a foundation brakeQuote:
Originally Posted by jamie
The problem is that they are a stationary holding brake, so applying them on the brake rollers doesnt even simulate how they would be used in real life.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
I have seen trucks roll away with the cardan applied, one wheel on the road, other wheel on the grass. it spun the wheel on the grass forwards and just rolled away down the hill
Yep exactly, there was a prang in Tauranga like this a while back, the truck skidded down a grass hill with alternative wheels rolling and skidding... There should at a minimum be a limited slip diff or similar on those setups. Or a driver that knows they cannot leave the cab or must fit a hold-down to the brake pedal if the have to park on unformed surfaces and get out and leave the truck...
Where the damage risk on testing them on the rollers is on the dynamic reversal on the driveshaft pinions - very correct in saying that that is not what they do in real life. Although if they do explode something on the rollers likely the setup was not warrantable anyway.
There has been a lot of talk on the motorhome forums about cardan brakes and failing COF's
Yes. They have to be in supremely good condition to now pass the test. Pretty much a full teardown, clean up and sand the drum, brakeclean, new shoes, adjust etc etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Jack
How to the GQ patrols and safaris get on now? I haven't talked to anyone who's had any issues which sort of surprises me.
But it's bollocks isn't it.
Those cardan/driveshaft brakes are for parking only. Not an emergency brake.
They will never be as efficient as even shabby back drums let alone modern disc brakes.
Its currently only for COFs, not WOFs. Thank f@ck!Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
