Thread: MN Triton EGR blanking plates mod.

Just wondered if anyones tried fitting egr blanking plates to their Tritons. Mines an MN 2014 . Any issues?. Seems easy enough. I see them available on the internet etc.Cheers.

we have a 2010, easier to turn it off electronically as we did on ours. i havent built a egr turnoff for a 2.4 triton yet though.
basically you confuse the ecu that its super cold outside and the egr turns off. in the meantime i suggest you buy a bottle of "royal" egr cleaner from partsmaster in chch and blow the crap out of the inlet manifold/egr. best $25 you will spend on it.
just for all thats holy do it outside !!!!!

Originally Posted by gonetropo

just for all thats holy do it outside !!!!!

Back it into a mate's workshop at lunchtime and do it

@veitnamcam got a cable mod for his triton, i got the same (cant recall where from) definite increase in throttle response and fueo savings

Originally Posted by 223nut

@veitnamcam got a cable mod for his triton, i got the same (cant recall where from) definite increase in throttle response and fueo savings

i make them, but havent had my hands on a 2.4l one yet to work out how to do it. the 2.5 is easy as

Haven't taken much notice of one but the plates are easy enough to make just use a piece of panel steel and copy the gasket without the hole in the middle

blank plates can sometimes bring up the engine warning light though.pays to have a very small 2-3mm hole in it

Isn’t the whole EGR problem best approached by fitting an oil catch can to the crankcase gas recirculation?

egr is exhaust gas reticulation. when the motor is under light load a bloody great solenoid activates and feeds exhaust gas back to the intake manifold. on our triton the inside of the manifold had about 8mm of tar thru it causing the engine to go into limp mode. i had to remove the manifold and egr system and clean it all out which was allot of work plus new gaskets. (and allot of swearing)

Yes, but the source of the tar is not from the recirculated exhaust gas, it’s from the recirculated crankcase gases that contain a fine mist of oil which meets the EGR in the intake manifold. On contact with the superheated exhaust gas, the crankcase oil forms the crust that blocks the intake manifold.

Take the oil out of the equation, problem (largely) solved.

That’s always been my understanding, but I admit it is very specific to Toyotas and not other makes, however I believe the logic is fairly generic.

One thing I do know is that the 150 Hilux fleet on a mine site that I worked on for a few years had lots of problems with blocked EGR valves on 2-3 yr old vehicles. These vehicles basically run all day, most of the time stationary with the Aircon switched to max. So the amount of kilometres travelled versus engine operating hours is actually very low but the engines take a hiding from bad fuel and constantly idling. When the gold price crashed in 2013 the replacement plan for these vehicles was updated to add another two years operating time, and one of two main retrofitted maintenance items was an oil catch can (after stripping and cleaning the EGR, which was quite an expensive exercise in labour hours, but worth it... the guys got extremely good at it). The other item was adding a secondary 5 micron water trap type fuel filter. Three vehicles were selected for testing 12 months after the catch cans were installed, and found to be very clean.

well i have to admit the inside of the intake manifold is nice and shiny nowadays, no catch can but no egr functioning either.

and what is britains favorite dog of 2019 ?

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier, according to Eucanuba.

I spent a fair few years playing with the outback four-wheel-drive community, and built my own touring vehicle and then set off into the red stuff. That’s the vehicle I have here. Talking to numerous engine blokes and the technicians on the Minesite, and a whole bunch of others, I guess I formed the opinion that removing the oil was better than removing the hot gas. I think there’s heaps online written about downstream problems with engine codes and so on when fiddling with the EGR. Not necessarily on all vehicles but certainly on a fair few of them.

So I encourage anyone pondering their EGR to have a look at the other option which is to remove the material that creates the crud in the first place. Having seen the inside of blocked EGR valves, is it is to my mind freakin’ criminal that vehicle manufacturers don’t deal with this problem from the get go.

No money in 100% reliable vehicles

Gonetropo ,I think the engines the same. Mines a 2.5.As far as I know .When I look up the model the 2.5 ran from 2009-2015.Dont know for sure. So you say that your intake is clean now just by tricking the ECU. Whereabouts would I find the kit or loom to trick it. In the mean time Ill try a can of spray.Havent had the truck long , just getting my head around any issues that could occur.In saying that its 28 years newer than my last 4WD which was petrol and its great to drive.

Originally Posted by gonetropo

i make them, but havent had my hands on a 2.4l one yet to work out how to do it. the 2.5 is easy as Attachment 142242

Do you make for other Makes- models?